Question for those with FRPP 1" springs and Brembos - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010 Thread Starter
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The ride is actually better. You don't need the Strut mounts (they only work with the 2010 or older shocks) or the Jounce bumpers.

The problem you're facing is having to pay someone to put these parts on. The $300 in parts for the springs and panhard bar will likely cost you at least that to install at a dealership. It's not a hard job to DIY. Remember though, if you later add shocks you'll need to pay that install bill all over again..
Really...So the only thing I need, are the 1" springs?? Awesome.

And what do you mean the ride is better? I thought it would be worse?

Are my dampers going to wear out quickly since it's lowered 1"? I don't want to replace them every year...

I don't know why ford doesn't just lower it a bit themselves so we don't have to go through this crap again.


2011 Black Mustang GT 5.0 Brick-Red
6SP Manual | 3.73 Gears | HIDs | Sec & Anti-Theft Pkg | Brembo GT Brake Pkg | Comfort Package | Shaker 1000 |
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2011 CS/GT Front Valance, 2011 GT500 Rear Diffuser, 2011 SVT GT500 Mufflers, 2011 Roush Side Skirts, 3dCarbon GT500 Spoiler, Boss 302 Front Splitter, Speed Dawg custom shift-knob, Black Pony Emblem, 50% fog-light tint, Blacked Out Side Marks Front and Rear, 35% All-around Tint & Heon H10 fog-light bulbs
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Originally Posted by ssimaniac View Post
I don't know why ford doesn't just lower it a bit themselves so we don't have to go through this crap again.
Ford makes a ton of cash in aftermarket mustang parts.


2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Coupe Sterling Grey/Black int
3.73, Brembos, Electronics package, HIDs
Ordered : 07/07/10
Sticker : 08/25/10
Build Date : 08/30/10
Delivery Date: 09/15/10
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010 Thread Starter
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Still looking for a bit more feedback before I decide to pull the trigger or not.

2011 Black Mustang GT 5.0 Brick-Red
6SP Manual | 3.73 Gears | HIDs | Sec & Anti-Theft Pkg | Brembo GT Brake Pkg | Comfort Package | Shaker 1000 |
Mods:

2011 CS/GT Front Valance, 2011 GT500 Rear Diffuser, 2011 SVT GT500 Mufflers, 2011 Roush Side Skirts, 3dCarbon GT500 Spoiler, Boss 302 Front Splitter, Speed Dawg custom shift-knob, Black Pony Emblem, 50% fog-light tint, Blacked Out Side Marks Front and Rear, 35% All-around Tint & Heon H10 fog-light bulbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssimaniac View Post
Really...So the only thing I need, are the 1" springs?? Awesome.

And what do you mean the ride is better? I thought it would be worse?

Are my dampers going to wear out quickly since it's lowered 1"? I don't want to replace them every year...
The ride is better because the springs are progressive. The initial spring compression is relatively soft (softer than stock) so the ride on smooth surfaces and minor irregularities seems cushier.

As the spring transitions to the stiffer winding (which it does pretty quickly) the ride firmness increases. The issue with shocks is they are not valved firmly enough to really deal perfectly with the spring characteristics. Stock shocks will wear out more quickly on stiff springs.

Based on a lot of reading here, most find just a spring swap acceptable. I don't but that's just me and experience with the cars I've had before. Don't forget the adjustable Panhard bar.

Steve
2011 GT in Performance white | 3.73's | FRPP "P" springs on D specs | Fays2 Watts Link | Brembo's | Steeda CAI/Tune | FRPP "X" into GT500 muffs | Sparco Milano seats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
The ride is better because the springs are progressive. The initial spring compression is relatively soft (softer than stock) so the ride on smooth surfaces and minor irregularities seems cushier.

As the spring transitions to the stiffer winding (which it does pretty quickly) the ride firmness increases. The issue with shocks is they are not valved firmly enough to really deal perfectly with the spring characteristics. Stock shocks will wear out more quickly on stiff springs.

Based on a lot of reading here, most find just a spring swap acceptable. I don't but that's just me and experience with the cars I've had before. Don't forget the adjustable Panhard bar.
Steve, you did great on your posts (and photo album). I may consider doing your same suspension mod. My biggest concern for dropping was getting a better ride quality, which I think you addressed and you also seemed to confirm changing the dampers is necessary. I do not think the stock units are very good even with the stock spring. For sake of clarity, the factory units are progressive design springs as well, they just do not ramp up (stiffen) as fast as the shorter spring right? I saw you photo "shocks 004" and assume that is with the new spring. Any chance you have similar shot with the old stock spring?

Also, Can you comment as to what swayed you to go with Tokico "D" specs vs something else?
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Speedking....Thanks!
I've been modding cars for a long time so I know what I was looking for (though I've never owned a Mustang).. I've done a few spring only swaps in the past (Miata and 993 Porsche) and in each case the results weren't that good so I ultimately knew I'd have to do this (shocks) on the Mustang....On a few of my cars I've done shock only swaps with stock springs and that always resulted in nice improvements. Shocks really are critical to controlling Shorter and stiffer springs and usually result in a better ride as Movement and harshness is better controlled. Very few OEM shocks seem to return the precision that a good aftermarket unit will. On shock selection, I have to confess I'm just not a Koni fan. I do like Bilsteins a lot, but felt the Mustang needed some adjustability to allow me to tune it correctly. The Tokico's primarily adjust rebound (like most single stage adjustables) but also ramp up compression damping as a percentage of that adjustment. I really felt the softer initial rate of the FRPP's needed a bit more compression so they were the shock I chose. At 3 turns from full hard (7 turns of full adjustment) and 3.5 on the rear they seem about perfect for my driving style. They were also $200 cheaper than Koni's and with no track plans, seemed a good street solution for me. I don't have pics of the stock springs mounted but you can peak in your wheel well to get an idea! On mounting older style shocks, my pics show the difference in the shaft machining. The GT500 strut tops are the simplest way to adapt to the 2011, but also a simple spacer on the shock shaft will work and allow use of the current strut tops. For the $60 it seemed to make sense to go to the GT tops.

Hope that helps!

All my Mod albums here: Mustang stuff | Ttschwing | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

Steve
2011 GT in Performance white | 3.73's | FRPP "P" springs on D specs | Fays2 Watts Link | Brembo's | Steeda CAI/Tune | FRPP "X" into GT500 muffs | Sparco Milano seats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
The ride is actually better. You don't need the Strut mounts (they only work with the 2010 or older shocks) or the Jounce bumpers.

The problem you're facing is having to pay someone to put these parts on. The $300 in parts for the springs and panhard bar will likely cost you at least that to install at a dealership. It's not a hard job to DIY. Remember though, if you later add shocks you'll need to pay that install bill all over again..

For the record, which part number/model of shocks did you install? The manf website didn't help.

2011 401a Brembo Electronics HID
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For the record, which part number/model of shocks did you install? The manf website didn't help.
D-Spec's.... 2005-10 Mustang Tokico D-Spec Shock & Strut Kit at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Looks like prices went up since I bought a few weeks ago...

Steve
2011 GT in Performance white | 3.73's | FRPP "P" springs on D specs | Fays2 Watts Link | Brembo's | Steeda CAI/Tune | FRPP "X" into GT500 muffs | Sparco Milano seats
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