alright the boxes are stacking up, what might be hard to install? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012 Thread Starter
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alright the boxes are stacking up, what might be hard to install?

so i should be getting my car in a month...but took advantage of black friday and some other sales and stuff is and will be stacking up...so im wondering of the list below, is there anything thats going to give me trouble? car will be on jack stands and i know what im doing around cars....

The List:
BMR relocation brackets
BMR adjustable phb
J&M extreme lca's
eibach front and rear sways
eibach lowering springs
steeda heavy duty strut mounts
steeda adjustable front end links
dss alum. drive shaft
mgw shifter
steeda ss brake lines
roush upper, lower grilles & lip
RTR axle backs
tokico adjustable shocks & struts
BMR front ds safety loop
jhr clutch line

i think thats it....i think most will be fine...but i know on my challenger the rear springs were almost impossible to get in because of thier weird lower control arm thing...so im just preparing myself for some of the worse things...tjings for any first hand experience

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012
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It's all pretty easy stuff. All of it can be done by yourself. Be prepared for a constant stream of brake fluid while you are changing out the brake lines though.

The only one I haven't done is the clutch line swap. I've been thinking about doing it but I'm curious if anybody has actually noticed a difference in clutch pedal feel?

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012
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Most of that is a pretty straight foreward install. If you install the front springs onto the struts first, you will need a spring compressor. Then you can just r&r most everything else. Most all of the nuts on Ford suspension parts are said to be one time use only. I replaced the sway bar nuts and shock / strut nuts when i did mine just to be safe. The sway bar links can come loose and cause a clunk.

Chuck
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012
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The front swaybar might be a little tricky, here is a decent write-up with pics. Swaybar part starts on page 2.
Controlling Body Roll with Whiteline

The JHR clutch line is not too bad, just pay EXTREME attention to the little clips so you don't lose them. Here is the write-up I made on the clutch line.
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...utch-line.html

I would recommend doing the brake lines at the same time as the clutch line so you can bleed the entire system together.

Here is a write-up for installing lowering springs.
2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

Everything else should be cake.
post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimace427 View Post
The front swaybar might be a little tricky, here is a decent write-up with pics. Swaybar part starts on page 2.
Controlling Body Roll with Whiteline

The JHR clutch line is not too bad, just pay EXTREME attention to the little clips so you don't lose them. Here is the write-up I made on the clutch line.
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...utch-line.html

I would recommend doing the brake lines at the same time as the clutch line so you can bleed the entire system together.

Here is a write-up for installing lowering springs.
2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

Everything else should be cake.
+1 to this.

Have you installed springs and struts before? An impact wrench goes a long way with getting the main strut nut off. If you dont have one accessible then you might want an extra pair of hands to hold the shaft while you remove and install the nut. (Thats what she said!) The shaft will just spin if you dont. It could be kind of frustrating.

Dont forget to loosen the brake line when dropping the rear axle. Should be in the write up, but easily missed.

Heres one more tip. When installing that many items at once it is very difficult to tell which one gives you an issue if one arises. Kind of like playing Wheres Waldo when you get some clunks, grinds and thumps.

2012 Race Red GT Premium | MT82 3.31 | HID/Security | Steeda CAI | BAMA 91P | JLT Seperator | Steeda Shift Bracket | Steeda ProAction Shocks/Struts | Steeda Heavy Duty Strut Mounts | Eibach Pro-Kit (Dub) | J&M Adj. Panhard | GT500 Axle-Backs w/Resonator Delete | Ford Racing STB | American Muscle GT500 Black Machined 18x9/10 Nitto 555
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08GTCA View Post
Most of that is a pretty straight foreward install. If you install the front springs onto the struts first, you will need a spring compressor. Then you can just r&r most everything else. Most all of the nuts on Ford suspension parts are said to be one time use only. I replaced the sway bar nuts and shock / strut nuts when i did mine just to be safe. The sway bar links can come loose and cause a clunk.
The panhard bar will give some pretty good clunks too if not tightened well. Learned that the hard way. Thought my suspension was falling apart. Ended up being one nut being a little loose.

2012 Race Red GT Premium | MT82 3.31 | HID/Security | Steeda CAI | BAMA 91P | JLT Seperator | Steeda Shift Bracket | Steeda ProAction Shocks/Struts | Steeda Heavy Duty Strut Mounts | Eibach Pro-Kit (Dub) | J&M Adj. Panhard | GT500 Axle-Backs w/Resonator Delete | Ford Racing STB | American Muscle GT500 Black Machined 18x9/10 Nitto 555
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin72 View Post
It's all pretty easy stuff. All of it can be done by yourself. Be prepared for a constant stream of brake fluid while you are changing out the brake lines though.

The only one I haven't done is the clutch line swap. I've been thinking about doing it but I'm curious if anybody has actually noticed a difference in clutch pedal feel?

yeah...im.going to bleed as much of the fluid as possible...but not looking forward to the mess...lol

ive heard people have noticed a much better over all feel the the clutch with the new line...on sale it was 54.00, for that price and im going to be swapping the fluid anyways...figured why not?

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08GTCA View Post
Most of that is a pretty straight foreward install. If you install the front springs onto the struts first, you will need a spring compressor. Then you can just r&r most everything else. Most all of the nuts on Ford suspension parts are said to be one time use only. I replaced the sway bar nuts and shock / strut nuts when i did mine just to be safe. The sway bar links can come loose and cause a clunk.
yeah...autozone has thier free loaner tool program, so ill get a sprong compresspr from them...

so the nuts are a one time deal? is there a list somewhete that has numbers so i can.order in advance?

yeah sway bar and their end links can be a real ***** for coming loose...

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimace427 View Post
The front swaybar might be a little tricky, here is a decent write-up with pics. Swaybar part starts on page 2.
Controlling Body Roll with Whiteline

The JHR clutch line is not too bad, just pay EXTREME attention to the little clips so you don't lose them. Here is the write-up I made on the clutch line.
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...utch-line.html

I would recommend doing the brake lines at the same time as the clutch line so you can bleed the entire system together.

Here is a write-up for installing lowering springs.
2011 Mustang GT 5.0 Ford Racing Lowering Springs Install - LatemodelRestoration.com Blog

Everything else should be cake.
stellar info and links thx...dropping the rear axle makes me a bit nervous...lol.

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacingRedGT View Post
+1 to this.

Have you installed springs and struts before? An impact wrench goes a long way with getting the main strut nut off. If you dont have one accessible then you might want an extra pair of hands to hold the shaft while you remove and install the nut. (Thats what she said!) The shaft will just spin if you dont. It could be kind of frustrating.

Dont forget to loosen the brake line when dropping the rear axle. Should be in the write up, but easily missed.

Heres one more tip. When installing that many items at once it is very difficult to tell which one gives you an issue if one arises. Kind of like playing Wheres Waldo when you get some clunks, grinds and thumps.
yes...ive lowered well over 24+ cars in the last 12 years and done many other things (s/c's, turbos, heads, headers, exhaust, full stereos, etc...i was a tech for 2 years as well) ..but the one thing ive learned is there os always something on each damn car...lol...

thx for the remind on the brake lines...

yeah this much **** and it gets a little crazy, lmao!!!!

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacingRedGT View Post
The panhard bar will give some pretty good clunks too if not tightened well. Learned that the hard way. Thought my suspension was falling apart. Ended up being one nut being a little loose.
ill make sure to tighten that ***** down :-)..thx

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stellar info and links thx...dropping the rear axle makes me a bit nervous...lol.

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Sounds way more daunting that it is. Actually very simple. Undo a few bolts then just lower it slowly till you have enough room. Making sure its aligned when pushing it back up was pretty simple also. Just go slow and it should be fine.

I used the same nut twice for my struts and havent had any issues with them. I like taking corners pretty fast and they havent come loose in 6000 miles.

2012 Race Red GT Premium | MT82 3.31 | HID/Security | Steeda CAI | BAMA 91P | JLT Seperator | Steeda Shift Bracket | Steeda ProAction Shocks/Struts | Steeda Heavy Duty Strut Mounts | Eibach Pro-Kit (Dub) | J&M Adj. Panhard | GT500 Axle-Backs w/Resonator Delete | Ford Racing STB | American Muscle GT500 Black Machined 18x9/10 Nitto 555
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacingRedGT View Post
Sounds way more daunting that it is. Actually very simple. Undo a few bolts then just lower it slowly till you have enough room. Making sure its aligned when pushing it back up was pretty simple also. Just go slow and it should be fine.

I used the same nut twice for my struts and havent had any issues with them. I like taking corners pretty fast and they havent come loose in 6000 miles.
thx for the advice...

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If I was down in Portland I'd give you a hand. Every one of these projects greatly benefit from having that extra person involved. Plus, Portland has great bars. +1 on the J&M Extremes. Excellent LCA's.

2011 GT | MT82 | 3.73 | Brembos | Barton | Airaid | CDC chin | Corsa X pipe & Xtremes | DSS Aluminum Shaft | BMR Rear loop & LCA relocating brackets | J&M Extreme LCA | Koni Yellows | Steeda Sports | UMI Panhard | SCT & BAMA
"Yo, nutsack! Let me tell you something, man, muscle beats import every time. You know what I'm saying? Every time!" - Dwight
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012 Thread Starter
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If I was down in Portland I'd give you a hand. Every one of these projects greatly benefit from having that extra person involved. Plus, Portland has great bars. +1 on the J&M Extremes. Excellent LCA's.
hey thanks for the offer...parts wont go on until the beginning of 2013...so if your here, ill take you out for drinks to those bars if you help ;-)...super nice of you.

i hope they are good, i bought them over the bmr for the main reason of them being round and not boxed...but got a decent deal non the less.

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