Oil Pan covered by warranty? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013 Thread Starter
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Oil Pan covered by warranty?

So I went to go do my first oil change today myself and lo and behold the oil drain nut is stripped. It's just spinning and not backing out. This was after banging on it for about thirty minutes with a ratchet and a hammer. I'm pretty sure the dealership over torqued it.

So here's the problem. Lawley's Team Ford of Sierra Vista, AZ was the last to change the oil. All the oil changes were performed by them since they gave me free oil change coupons. I just moved to California. The nearest Ford dealership is Antelope Valley Ford. I already know they will tell me I need to order an entirely new oil pan due to this. Will this be covered under warranty? All the work from the previous dealership is documented. I have the originals and it should be in the Ford system. Mileage is ~24k.

I'm sure this wouldn't be a problem if I took the car in to the original dealership since they did all the work....but now two are in involved since I'm not driving back to AZ.

....Deysha!?


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013
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It's not covered by warranty because it was damaged by whoever over torqued it. You would have to take it back to the dealer who's tech messed it up and make them fix it.

Warranty is for factory defective parts, not damaged parts.


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013 Thread Starter
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It's not covered by warranty because it was damaged by whoever over torqued it. You would have to take it back to the dealer who's tech messed it up and make them fix it.

Warranty is for factory defective parts, not damaged parts.
This is what I was afraid of...That dealership is 600+ miles away.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013
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Guess you could call them and see if they will be good guys about it...

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Guess you could call them and see if they will be good guys about it...
HAH! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!



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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013
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Wow that sucks man! I would be extremely frustrated too. I suggest ordering a new pan and replacing it yourself. I'm not sure if that can be done with the engine in the car though.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013
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Stripped Oil Pan Plug

Here is what I would do. Being as you have documentation for all your oil changes at the previous dealer. I would call and speak to the service manager at that dealership. I would also P/M Deysha and explain what is going on and ask her to intervene on your behalf. She is here to help us and she is a stand up gal if there is a legitimate gripe she will see that it is addressed.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013
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Well if the dealer won't stand behind you might look into an over size replacement drain plug. We use to use them years back as the Chevys oil pans were so thin that they would strip easily. It might save you a lot of work installing a pan.


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013
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I noticed Qwik valves recommended by members here for exactly that reason, the aluminum oil pan can strip out pretty easily. I've had my Qwik Valve for about a year now, it makes changing the oil easier. Basically no bolt to have to deal with, & the oil drains with connecting tube directly into the recycle container. Minimal mess & no tools for an oil change! I recommend it, especially for enthusiasts.

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Dealership may have been the last place to change the oil. But they may blame you since you hammered on it should have stopped before using hammer.

Qwik release valve for oil pan may look to be good. Seen too many of them knocked open by road debris.
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I don't think that is likely based on where the drain plug is situated. But if that was a worry, they also have safety clip available that will keep the lever from changing position.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusman59 View Post
Well if the dealer won't stand behind you might look into an over size replacement drain plug. We use to use them years back as the Chevys oil pans were so thin that they would strip easily. It might save you a lot of work installing a pan.
I've used these a few times after techs stripped plugs, they are a workable solution.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdmustgt View Post
Dealership may have been the last place to change the oil. But they may blame you since you hammered on it should have stopped before using hammer.

Qwik release valve for oil pan may look to be good. Seen too many of them knocked open by road debris.
Yup, the dealer is probably going to tell you that you stripped it.

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The pan threads appear to be a normal size.

You could and the dealership probably would helicoil it.

Also, you should not be using hammers and ratchets for these sorts of things.

Sounds to me like your ratchet was too short and/or you were using very poor technique.

For me, the highest success rate for a suborn fastener comes from using an impact gun... Buy one... It will pay for itself.

Following that, use a breaker bar or at least a section of pipe on the ratchet. The goal is to provide a strong twisting torque WITHOUT applying a side-load at the same time.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm taking her in tomorrow to see what they have to say. I'll just play dumb and see what happens since the car has so far always been serviced at a dealership...at least for oil changes. Hopefully they don't start asking about the manifold, full length headers, complete Eibach suspension, brakes, etc...which I did myself.

One thing I've learned is to just be nice and patient. It's only when they want to start bending you over is when you gotta start getting a little aggressive and showing paper work and making phone calls. If they tell me they had to use a new bolt and just charge me $10 for a bolt so be it. If they say they want to replace the oil pan for $700 then we might butt heads a bit. Hopefully the thread on the bolt stripped first. If not, I hope they know how to re-tap. Because not knowing how is not an excuse.


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