Driveshaft Mania vs Value on a V6 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-05-2013 Thread Starter
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Driveshaft Mania vs Value on a V6

Hello -

This post is about the value of replacing the factory drive shaft in the 2011-13 V6 Mustang with an aftermarket aluminum (or carbon fiber$) model. I had a few questions after looking around the web that I would appreciate some input on.

I recently purchased a v6 Auto Mustang as a daily driver. I plan on modding the car to make it a solid v6 mustang rather than a weekend toy (Not that I don't wish I could, but then it would have to be a manual!).

Driveshafts seem to be the rage right now and I saw the new Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft that American muscle just brought in. After a little research I question the value of a swap for a vehicle that will only see a course for my driving fun rather than best lap time.

From what I have read the stock V6 driveshaft is lighter than the massive stock V8 shaft and a V6 after market swap will only shave 8lbs off of stock. From what I have read rotational mass has a ratio of 4:1, so the effective weight reduction is only 24lbs.

Assuming the above is correct the mod isn't bad if I was racing the car but with my use I don't think it represents that big of a value for $800. That could be a new exhaust system or tuner instead. But, what did get me thinking was the driveshaft joints and pinion correction that come with the new shaft. I plan on lowering my ride and if the driveshaft eliminated the need for replacing the upper control arm the driveshaft becomes a little more attractive.

Can anyone speak to the pinion correction through the driveshaft vs the control arm?

Anyone want to add in on their experience with an aftermarket aluminum driveshaft for the V6 in general?

Also, a question regarding the weight - is there also a ratio effect for unsprung weight? In other words is the rotational mass ratio the only ratio to calculate? Or is the rotational mass of 24lbs also then amplified by being unsprung? I have seen too many differing ratios for unsprung weight from 2:1 to 10:1. I don't why but I always thought it was 2.5:1, but I don't have anything to back it up. If anyone could provide the math for the effect of reduced unsprung weight, rotational mass, and clarify if there is a multiplier effect that may render an 8lb difference to have the effect of reducing 50+lbs please speak up!

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-05-2013
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The carbon fibre shaft that uses CV joints alleviates some need for pinion correction since the deflection of the incorrect angle doesn't affect a CV style joint at those shallow angles, but it does nothing to correct pinion angle.

And the rotational mass affect is really minimal owing to the small diameter in question.

For a mild street application that won't see sustained high speed operation or dyno runs the shaft value is minimal.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-05-2013
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$647 is what I paid for my Axle Exchange from American Muscle.

For a DD application, one of the best benefits is smoothness. The 2700 rpm decel vibration is pretty much eliminated. You may pick up some giddy-up.

It's good insurance.

When my car was new, I got underneath with a can of Rustolium, and painted everything that was bare steel. I know this is silly, but I like the idea of a nice shiny alum shaft under my car rather than a rusty, junky looking thing.

Most guys will tell you to do 3.73s first.

`13 DIB, MCA, Perf Pac, Comf Pac, Back Up Camera, MT82, AE Driveshaft, Bama Tune: 93R, BBK Shortys. Borla Touring Mufflers, Air Raid CAI, AM Shift Knob, WeatherTec mats, Stripes and Tint. "Winter 18" GT Wheels and Tires, powder coated black" Redline Hood Struts, Steeda LCAs. Paid Cash.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013 Thread Starter
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Thank you for the replies. What sparked my post was the following description off of the Driveshaft Shop website:

"FORD 2011-12 Mustang V6 6-Speed Manual / Automatic 3.5" 1-Piece with CV Aluminum Driveshaft

1. 1350 front u-joint with flange to mount up to the transmission

9. With the CV in the rear there is no need to change pinion angle on lowered cars."

Is my understanding wrong that the upper control arm is only for pinion correction?

And if anybody has the math worked out in an example or a source that is more practical than a textbook with a blank formula for rotational mass and unsprung weight I would be grateful.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013
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An adjustable upper control arm serves two functions, pinion angle adjustment as well as adding more control of axle windup to reduce axle tramp.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013
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Still probably just going to get a custom steel ds made locally. Supporting a local guy. Considerably cheaper and will hold more hp than my 3.7 will ever see.

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| 2012 | Base | Performance White | 3.7 | MT82 | 2.73 | FRPP Sport Axlebacks | BMR lcas on the way
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013
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You can save 10% during various Holiday sales, which drops then price to right around $700. It's hard to quantify the performance unless you do a direct same day test on a drag strip, etc. But I feel like it is worth it, just feels like the power is better connected. DSS makes a great shaft, and can handle future horsepower increases.

But for the same money you could get an MGW shifter and a set of GT500 mufflers, or a very nice stereo upgrade.

It's your money....
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013 Thread Starter
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The driveshaft comes out for installation of a new torque converter. For me that seems like the time to replace it. On a V6 the weight savings is minimal (I guess) and $700+ on suspension or gearing has a better value and should be a priority over efficiency in the driveline. This thread obviously had a short life but I encourage anyone to bring it back from the dead at a later date if you have anything to contribute. Thanks.

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