Tell me what you think of my planned 2014 Mustang GT build? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014 Thread Starter
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Tell me what you think of my planned 2014 Mustang GT build?

Hi folks!

I've been the proud owner of one gray 2014 Mustang GT for about a month now! It's an awesome car and I'm really glad I bought it. Now, though, I'm ready to start tinkering! The car is a (mostly) daily driver, and I would love to do the occasional track day or drag day. I'm trying to preserve my warranty (for the most part! ) and pass VA's annual inspection (which includes exhaust check) so I want to stick to bolt-ons and keep my factory cats. After consulting with my brother-in-law, who's a Mustang enthusiast, this is the build list I've come up with:

SR Performance Short Throw Shifter
Pypes Pype Bomb Super System catback (I like the sound in videos a lot)
Pypes X-Pipe
BOSS 302 Intake Manifold and strut tower brace
Airaid CAI
SCT tuner/BAMA tune
Eibach Pro-Street coilovers
Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates
JLT air/oil separator

The total is ~3k. So my question to you, intrepid forum goers, is this: what am I missing? Is the suspension setup OK/are there any other need-to-haves there? I plan to pretty much slam it for the street - the Eibachs lower up to 2.4" - and adjust it as needed for a track day. Is using a canned tune here OK or is it worth the not-insignificant additional cost and effort to get a dyno tune? I would also consider getting new, lighter wheels (I have the 19" aluminum factory option wheels) but I have no idea how much mine weigh.

I would appreciate any suggestions, critiques, and other feedback!

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014
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If you put on the boss intake manifold and get a tune you will have a very hard time getting the dealer to do any warranty work. The tune that comes with the boss intake raises your max rpm. If anything breaks you will surely take the blame and be paying out of pocket.


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014
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Adjustable pan hard bar and contol arms would be my suggestion, adjustable ride height is cool but you still need to adjust the geometry, canned tunes are fine no sense throwing money to get baseline numbers IMO
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014
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Congrats on your 2014 GT! Good to see you're already enjoying it bone stock. Just wait until you throw some more power at it. These cars really respond well to basic bolt-ons.

That being said, I'd stick with the factory intake manifold over the Boss. The only reason being is you plan to keep your factory catalytic converters. The Boss Intake needs a very free flowing exhaust to show its true potential. I usually recommend a catless mid-pipe at the least. Honestly they work even better with LT headers and a catless mid-pipe. If you're sticking with your stock catalytic converters, than you should stick with the factory intake manifold too. You'll see a much better power brand and throttle response this way.

The SR short-throw shifter is a great upgrade! I'd make sure you order the kit that includes the SR shifter bracket too. Upgrading the factory shifter bracket is a MUST if you want more confident shifts!

Next, the suspension mods listed look great, but you're going to need at least an adjustable panhard bar. Without the adj panhard bar, your rear axle will stick out to the driver side when the ride height is lowered. I also recommend adjustable upper and lower control arms to retain the factory suspension geometry and improve traction all around.

Lastly, a Bama custom tune will certainly suit your needs for a powerful tune. Dyno tunes are unnecessary for Mustangs with bolt-on mods. A reputable custom tuner can easily dial in your Mustang via email with datalogs!

Give me a shout if there's anything else I can help you with!

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014
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That's an awfully long list to have for someone who doesn't seem to have much time in the car. Personally, my approach has always been a lot more calculating. I drive the car a bit and start to recognize what I don't like about it. It's unclear what you're looking for and why you're changing all those things out. Have you been to the track or strip before? Aside from some safety upgrades (brake pads, high temp brake fluid, etc), I would take the car out on the track and enjoy all the stock goodness. If you've never tracked a car before, the last thing on your mind will be how to make the car faster. And if you have tracked a car before, you'll know exactly what items you will want to change up and why--or at least what characteristics of the car you don't like--after the first day at the track. It may take more time to do it this way (which to me is the fun part), but you will be less likely to throw money away.

So I don't have any issues with the items themselves, but I would advise a different, more specific approach to modding. And hey, you might end up with the same list of parts, but at least you'll know exactly why you chose the part and what it's going to do.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo_red12 View Post
If you put on the boss intake manifold and get a tune you will have a very hard time getting the dealer to do any warranty work. The tune that comes with the boss intake raises your max rpm. If anything breaks you will surely take the blame and be paying out of pocket.


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Well, I am aware of the Magnusson-Moss Act. I know that doesn't stop dealers from getting balky sometimes but I've mostly read good things about dealers and the boss manifold.

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Originally Posted by mb3492 View Post
Adjustable pan hard bar and contol arms would be my suggestion, adjustable ride height is cool but you still need to adjust the geometry, canned tunes are fine no sense throwing money to get baseline numbers IMO
Cool - thanks!

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Originally Posted by AMShaneLesky View Post
Congrats on your 2014 GT! Good to see you're already enjoying it bone stock. Just wait until you throw some more power at it. These cars really respond well to basic bolt-ons.

That being said, I'd stick with the factory intake manifold over the Boss. The only reason being is you plan to keep your factory catalytic converters. The Boss Intake needs a very free flowing exhaust to show its true potential. I usually recommend a catless mid-pipe at the least. Honestly they work even better with LT headers and a catless mid-pipe. If you're sticking with your stock catalytic converters, than you should stick with the factory intake manifold too. You'll see a much better power brand and throttle response this way.
I appreciate you saying so and not just trying to sell me stuff! Since I have to pass tailpipe emissions every year going catless is simply not an option. In that case, does it make sense to keep the factory H-pipe over an aftermarket X-pipe?

Quote:
The SR short-throw shifter is a great upgrade! I'd make sure you order the kit that includes the SR shifter bracket too. Upgrading the factory shifter bracket is a MUST if you want more confident shifts!
I've got the whole package on my Build List.

Quote:
Next, the suspension mods listed look great, but you're going to need at least an adjustable panhard bar. Without the adj panhard bar, your rear axle will stick out to the driver side when the ride height is lowered. I also recommend adjustable upper and lower control arms to retain the factory suspension geometry and improve traction all around.
That is good to know. I definitely want to maintain appropriate geometry. ETA: Would I need to do front and rear control arms? How hard is it to do the adjustments? I've reviewed the install instructions and they seem straightforward given that I'll already be in there for the coilovers but I'm not sure how the adjustment process would go.

Quote:
Lastly, a Bama custom tune will certainly suit your needs for a powerful tune. Dyno tunes are unnecessary for Mustangs with bolt-on mods. A reputable custom tuner can easily dial in your Mustang via email with datalogs!
Awesome! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstFord94 View Post
That's an awfully long list to have for someone who doesn't seem to have much time in the car. Personally, my approach has always been a lot more calculating. I drive the car a bit and start to recognize what I don't like about it. It's unclear what you're looking for and why you're changing all those things out. Have you been to the track or strip before? Aside from some safety upgrades (brake pads, high temp brake fluid, etc), I would take the car out on the track and enjoy all the stock goodness. If you've never tracked a car before, the last thing on your mind will be how to make the car faster. And if you have tracked a car before, you'll know exactly what items you will want to change up and why--or at least what characteristics of the car you don't like--after the first day at the track. It may take more time to do it this way (which to me is the fun part), but you will be less likely to throw money away.

So I don't have any issues with the items themselves, but I would advise a different, more specific approach to modding. And hey, you might end up with the same list of parts, but at least you'll know exactly why you chose the part and what it's going to do.
So here's my thoughts. A lot of things are just plain "look and feel" mods. I want a much more aggressive exhaust note, so I listened to a million clips and picked out one I liked. I love the look of a (properly) lowered car, and it was only a couple hundred dollars more to go "whole hog" and do coilovers vice just doing Koni yellows and shocks/struts. Plus, doing it this way the first time saves me from having to tear it all apart again later on (in theory, right? ). The CAI and tune are for a bit more go-fast, and the short shifter should help with the very blah stock shifter feel.

My goals are to get the car looking the way I want, and to add moderate performance over stock, while still maintaining streetability and reliability. I don't want a 1000rwhp monster that's tiring and uncomfortable to drive and that needs a rebuild or serious maintenance all the time. (I like wrenching, but within reason.) I have not tracked any car before, but I would like to open myself up to the possibility of doing so at some point in the future; however, it's not my primary focus.

Hopefully I don't come off as defensive here - I'm not at all! I just wanted to explain why I was thinking the things I was thinking.

Last edited by Siege; 05-06-2014 at 08:09 PM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014
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It's the rear lca's which could be non adjustable if you also install the uca that is adjustable so you can set the pinion angle of the rear end. I personally used an upr solid lowers and adjustable upper with their upgrade bracket which are really high quality and a breeze to use. Plants the rear so no wheel hop, puts the power down nicely!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014
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I can't believe I forgot! What's probably the most important "suspension" mod of all. Get wider wheels and better tires. The factory pirellis are not that great. And the 8-8.5" wide wheels are very limiting. Most people go with 255-275 up front and 275-315 on the rear. IMO you will notice the difference of better tires more than any other single mod


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3492 View Post
It's the rear lca's which could be non adjustable if you also install the uca that is adjustable so you can set the pinion angle of the rear end. I personally used an upr solid lowers and adjustable upper with their upgrade bracket which are really high quality and a breeze to use. Plants the rear so no wheel hop, puts the power down nicely!
Cool thanks. After googling a bit and reading AM's excellent suspension guide, I decided on the SR Performance adjustable upper and lower rear control arms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo_red12 View Post
I can't believe I forgot! What's probably the most important "suspension" mod of all. Get wider wheels and better tires. The factory pirellis are not that great. And the 8-8.5" wide wheels are very limiting. Most people go with 255-275 up front and 275-315 on the rear. IMO you will notice the difference of better tires more than any other single mod


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That is on the agenda eventually. I was thinking I'd use up the stock tires, but maybe I could resell them on craigslist or something. I need (read: would like) to have a second set of wheels for winter duty though. Most years it doesn't get too crazy here with the snow but I definitely can't run summers year-round. I guess if I laid out for new ones now I could put the whole wheel+tire set up for sale to recoup some of that. It will run me about $1500 for tires and wheels in 18x10 with 265 fronts and 295 rears, so I'll have to think about it.
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Quote:
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I appreciate you saying so and not just trying to sell me stuff! Since I have to pass tailpipe emissions every year going catless is simply not an option. In that case, does it make sense to keep the factory H-pipe over an aftermarket X-pipe?

I've got the whole package on my Build List.

That is good to know. I definitely want to maintain appropriate geometry. ETA: Would I need to do front and rear control arms? How hard is it to do the adjustments? I've reviewed the install instructions and they seem straightforward given that I'll already be in there for the coilovers but I'm not sure how the adjustment process would go.

Awesome! Thanks!
No sweat, glad I could help out with your build!

If you're using the factory catalytic converters, you can still switch to an after cat Xpipe if you want. I doubt you'll see much in power gains, but it will alter the exhaust tone to a sharper pitch. Exhaust tone is the only reason I'd switch to the Xpipe if you're using the factory catalytic convertors.

For control arms, all you'll need to upgrade is the rear. Adjustment is not hard, but you do need to know where to set everything at. Such as pinion angle and LCA angle. These are all specs you can look up on the forum or online though.

Shane

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-08-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot, Shane. I've decided I'm just going to go with non-adjustable rear control arms for simplicity's sake. I just don't feel confident enough to deal with the adjustable stuff and I'm not building a dedicated track car so I don't think I will need the adjustability too much. I'm also going to skip the X-pipe since the Pype Bombs make plenty of noise on their own!
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Quote:
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Thanks a lot, Shane. I've decided I'm just going to go with non-adjustable rear control arms for simplicity's sake. I just don't feel confident enough to deal with the adjustable stuff and I'm not building a dedicated track car so I don't think I will need the adjustability too much. I'm also going to skip the X-pipe since the Pype Bombs make plenty of noise on their own!
There's nothing wrong with skipping the adjustable LCA's, as I do understand you're not looking for anything drastic. Plus it will simply things during the installation and you'll still benefit from the durability. However, I'd definitely use an adjustable UCA over an solid. As the UCA's is the only way to retain the correct pinion angle with a lowered ride height.

Also, if you don't have a lowered ride height right now. You can just set the UCA to the same length as the stock unit. Then when you do lower the car, you can have it professionally adjusted.

I do see where you're coming from the exhaust stand point. I don't think that's a bad move by any means. If you're happy with the exhaust as it is, than why not save a few bucks!

Shane

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siege View Post
Thanks a lot, Shane. I've decided I'm just going to go with non-adjustable rear control arms for simplicity's sake. I just don't feel confident enough to deal with the adjustable stuff and I'm not building a dedicated track car so I don't think I will need the adjustability too much. I'm also going to skip the X-pipe since the Pype Bombs make plenty of noise on their own!
Definitely go with adjustable upper, with what your talking about doing you will need it. Adjusting pinion angle isn't that hard, needs to be up in the air but loaded(ride height). Pick up a angle finder for $10 and good to go, -1 to -2 degrees is recommended for street/drag use. Lots of how to's on here regarding
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I'd start out with springs, shocks and struts first to lower it. Then go mufflers next. GT500 or Roush. I wouldn't touch the engine for some time. As far as shifter, go with Steeda or MGW. Drive the car for a bit before you go with a tune. Just my opinion.

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Oh, and you'll need an adjustable panhard bar too when you lower.


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