New 2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 damaged by dealership - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Little ******* has balls too. I mean, I already have the Marine Corps plate on the car and I am not a small dude.. He was just cocky as all hell for his size..
Wooahhh, I missed this gem earlier.

There's no way you're a Marine. You act like a punk - its hard for me to believe that even in Obama's America, that the Marine Corps allowed you to get through recruit training.

Please, oh please claim to be in the Marine Corps - you give off the poser vibe like a fire alarm.


2011 Mustang GT M6 3.31s

Matt HONEYCUTT Tune, Lethal Off-Road X, GT500 axlebacks, J&M LCAs, UPR UCA, Whiteline LCA relocation brackets, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, GT500 strut mounts, SR Strut Tower Brace

Best 1/4 E/T (05/18/14 MIR - no tune, X-pipe, or UCA): 12.920 @ 109.40 mph (2.059 60ft)
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I had a somewhat similar experience.

Ordered black 14, traded for exact car ordered in sterling grey. Car comes in and they drill bumper and has 18 explainable miles on a new, special order car. I ask for $400 extra off car (already $400 under inv and Mgr declined. Ordered me another car.
New car comes in and there is a ding, pass door has a wrinkle in it from the factory and the gas door lines don't match the body lines. They wanted to paint and I lost it. Went to ford, bashed them on the survey etc....

In the end, they did a paint-less dent removal on the ding, swapped pass door and gas door with car #1 to avoid painting. I was lucky the paint was an exact match. I would want a new car and if you decided to paint the vehicle, you may be better off going through your insurance co to sue them. Ins co's have deals with body shops to cover their work for the lifetime of the vehicle.

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Wow, I don't even know where to start. I was going to quote posts to start this one, but I would have had to basically quote the entire thread making this post even more ridiculously long than its already going to be-if one has questions, see the posts above.

To the OP:

Get it fixed and move on. Paint matching is literately an exact science these days that any body/paint shop worth its salt can replicate to the exact degree. Case in point:

We picked up my wife's brand new 2012 Kona Blue GT Premium on December 14, 2011. She was built December 2, 2011.

On January 3, 2012, some moron in an SUV thought my wife's front bumper/hood was the perfect place to park her vehicle: https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...v-drivers.html

$1300 and a new bumper, grill surround, 2 new fog lights (adjusting screws were damaged somehow), radiator shroud, and a repainted hood later, the car was as good as new.

Kona Blue is every bit as hard as black to maintain/match yet I can verify that one cannot tell the difference between the repainted hood, replaced bumper or virgin factory fenders. The paint looks exactly the same on all three places from 3 different sources and on two different surface types (plastic bumper, metal hood/fenders).






Other than the 2.5 years and 28K miles worth of stone chips on the lower front part of the bumper the car looks practically brand new today, wouldn't you agree?


Now to the question of what these S197's will be worth in 25-30 years, who knows? This discussion has been beaten to death here, and I more align myself with those who say "not much" when we are talking about V6's and garden variety GT's, and maybe a bit more for Boss's, and a tad more for GT-500's.

There is a major reason why well restored 60's anything with power commanded a pretty penny over the last few decades: The 1970's, that's why. Cars in the 70's and early 80's sucked so bad that people were dying to get some 60's muscle over any of the a to b appliances that were being offered up as new cars back then.

A lot of those people passed their love of the 60's iron to their kids (us) who continue to keep they hobby alive to this day.

Unfortunately, our kids do not appear to be picking up on that same passion-listening to the rumble of a V8 is quickly met with "What, I can't plug my Ipod into it? What a piece of %$#@"!

The only caveat I place on that is...how much will a car that looks just like my 2014 or my wife's 2012 be worth to my son in 2039? That would be for him and his generation to decide, not us. He may really covet a car that used to make him grin whilst his dad drove it sideways up a freeway on ramp (lol). Then again, he may not. He may decide he really prefers the fully automated car that drives him to and from work while he has the morning paper read to him by his Galaxy S36 phone, all the while the 2 cylinder diesel generator under the hood that is only there to charge the batteries is getting him 200 MPG. Who's to say??

Buying a car, any car, as an investment is not a wise investment. A car is a perishable item. Even when it is sitting still, it is still aging. Rubber ages, gets brittle, and cracks. Steel rusts, paint fades (etc). A great deal of time and money is spent trying to keep them pristine, taking all the enjoyment out of even owning them to begin with.

My wife and I, we daily drive our Mustangs. We maintain them as well as we can, and we keep them as clean as a pair of smokers are capable of doing. All the while we are enjoying the cars every time we start the engine. Life is too short to do anything but enjoy it, anything less than that is a waste.

To the rest of you:

I had been busy the last several weeks with testing for a software changeover at work, and a family vacay over the Memorial Day holiday week, so I haven't been around a whole lot. I see that many have been taking advantage of that with the way you have been treating each other, and the language you have been using in the open forum.

UGBFK me, REALLY?

It's ok, I am back, and I know who you are and I am, as we say in my real life business, eyes on.

Keep it up and a few will be in forum jail


Hers:2012 Mustang GT Premium,6M,Kona Blue Exterior/Charcoal Interior, 400A, HID/Security Pkg ,Comfort Pkg.
[COLOR="DimGray"][B]His: 2014 Mustang GT Premium,6M,Sterling Gray Exterior/Charcoal Interior,400A, Reverse Sensing/Security Pkg, Comfort Pkg SMR# 3635
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I was going to say shoot for a replacement car, but I think you're loving the fact the car was built on the 50th anniversary. That is kinda cool. If you go for replacement car, skip the undercoat and paint treatments. Summer-only cars won't benefit, and you'll be waxing this thing enough to protect the paint.

In my view, go for door replacement next. The paint is highly likely to match. You'll have no-damage metal, and factory, baked-on paint. If it doesn't match well enough (and, I'd actually wait a bit to see if the paint ages to match), then get it painted/blended to match yourself, using a good body shop of your choosing. Angie's List is a good source there. You'll still have the undamaged metal beneath it. Many posters have been rightfully pleased with their repaint results. We've had some major work done on 2 cars - the blend was perfect, and the paint has lasted many years of daily, winter, salt exposure driving.

The fact that you had to find the damage without the dealer first owning up to it is horrible. Get this resolved and stay away.

This thread isn't about the definition of "investment," but you are right - know one knows. To me, if you can have a blast with a depreciating asset like a car, but have it depreciate dramatically less than say a Taurus, you've done well. Everyone laughed at my dad in the 70's for keeping his 65 coupe. "They're a dime a dozen." "It will never be worth anything." Could he have done better in the market with his 2,500 in 1965 dollars? Yes. Is his car worth more than the average 1965 specimen? Yes.

Down the road, I think your car will be worth more with undamaged metal, and hopefully all factory paint.

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I think a lot of people are missing something about car investments... even most 60s cars (including Mustangs) would not have been a good investment. As an example, let's take the OP's beloved 1968 Mustang. We'll go with a GT fastback with 302 (the most common engine) and a few basic options like radio and center console. That car would have had a retail price of about $3,150. It's not anything special so it's comparable to today's run of the mill GT. That $3,150 in 1968 dollars equates to $20,813 in 2013 dollars (the latest the Consumer Price Index covers). Hagerty sets the declared value for insurance of that car at $22,632... about $1,800 more than original retail. You don't think you would have spent a whole lot more than $1,800 over 46 years to keep that car in good condition?

Sure, if it was a '68 GT Convertible 428 now worth $136,000 it could have been considered an investment but an ordinary '14 GT coupe is not going to be worth enough in 40 years to cover the cost of maintaining it for those 40 years... whether or not it had a ding in the door.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00 View Post
I think a lot of people are missing something about car investments... even most 60s cars (including Mustangs) would not have been a good investment. As an example, let's take the OP's beloved 1968 Mustang. We'll go with a GT fastback with 302 (the most common engine) and a few basic options like radio and center console. That car would have had a retail price of about $3,150. It's not anything special so it's comparable to today's run of the mill GT. That $3,150 in 1968 dollars equates to $20,813 in 2013 dollars (the latest the Consumer Price Index covers). Hagerty sets the declared value for insurance of that car at $22,632... about $1,800 more than original retail. You don't think you would have spent a whole lot more than $1,800 over 46 years to keep that car in good condition?

Sure, if it was a '68 GT Convertible 428 now worth $136,000 it could have been considered an investment but an ordinary '14 GT coupe is not going to be worth enough in 40 years to cover the cost of maintaining it for those 40 years... whether or not it had a ding in the door.
True. Take the same money invested over the 40 years of car ownership and invest it in some mutual funds or 401K and see what you have in 40 years. 99% sure it would be more than the car is worth.

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post #67 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014 Thread Starter
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This has not been resolved and I have not heard from anyone at Ford. Not the dealership and not the Regional Manager I was told that I would hear from. I am far from a punk as one person posted earlier. A punk is someone that is trying to get something out of the deal.. I am not asking for anything extra. I am simply asking them to replace the car with a brand new one, exactly the same.

And yes, Fatopotomus, I am a Marine. I served 5 years faithfully and honorably. I am not going to get into a pissing match with you but you will not attack my service.
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post #68 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014 Thread Starter
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I think you all are taking the term of what I mean by investment incorrectly. Investment - an act of devoting time, effort, or energy to a particular undertaking with the expectation of a worthwhile result.

In its literal term it takes on a purpose for me. Buying a 2014 Mustang and taking the time I have taken thus far in protecting it. Buying the additional 'protection' packages ($3900 in total) and the current money I have spent on cleaners, rags, floor mats, is the act of devoting time, effort, and energy with the expectation of a worthwhile result. What I do know is that worthwhile result has been taken from me. So, my investment is degraded to me and other reasonable individuals would undoubtedly agree. And, that is the dealerships fault. I am driving a car around that I no longer would like to devote time, effort, or energy to because my worthwhile result has been ruined by the dealership. You all can say what you want about me going above and beyond but this is a brand new car. This car didn't have any damage to it when I gave it to the dealer to begin protecting my investment. I expected it to be brand new off the assembly line so I could begin my worthwhile expectations and result of the car being brand new. I have had to wait on the passenger window as well as it is an aftermarket. So, I have been unable to tint my windows and get the clear car braw on it as well. And, if they do paint the car, which they will because the paintless dent removal guy was not able to get it out, I still have to bring it back in, again, in order for them to put the paint protection back on the car after the new paint cures. So, those of you telling me this isn't an investment, please, do tell me where the worthwhile result is of buying a new car when I have to go through all of this for a new car? I think any reasonable person would agree this is an awful lot for someone to have to undertake for buying a brand new car; especially considering the $3900 of initial money I spent toward protecting this vehicle.

Last edited by usmcponycar; 06-02-2014 at 08:49 PM.
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What kind of protection packages add up to $3900??

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post #70 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014 Thread Starter
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What kind of protection packages add up to $3900??
Gold Package (Paint Protection/Environment Protection) - Honestly, it was sold to me as paint protection, undercoat, and interior protection package. Then, they wrote it down as Gold Package. And then, it inevitably ended up as the 'Environmental Protection Package'. The guy told me it would warranty the paint against hairline scratches and swirl marks you normally see on a black car for 10 years as well as bird crap, tar, etc. 'Bro, you can leave bird crap on the paint and never wash it off and it will not eat through this stuff'. That it was going to feel like a non stick pan when they were done and blah blah blah.. So, I bought it for $1,495.00 as they convinced me it was a necessity for a black car. Then, I was told, after they performed the work, it did not protect against swirl marks as I noticed one on the hood.

Ding and Dent/Tire and Wheel - $695.00

Extended Service Plan - $1695.00 which extends the warranty to 10 years on the car for everything. So, I bought it.


Exactly, $3,885.00..
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Gold Package (Paint Protection/Environment Protection) - Honestly, it was sold to me as paint protection, undercoat, and interior protection package. Then, they wrote it down as Gold Package. And then, it inevitably ended up as the 'Environmental Protection Package'. The guy told me it would warranty the paint against hairline scratches and swirl marks you normally see on a black car for 10 years as well as bird crap, tar, etc. 'Bro, you can leave bird crap on the paint and never wash it off and it will not eat through this stuff'. That it was going to feel like a non stick pan when they were done and blah blah blah.. So, I bought it for $1,495.00 as they convinced me it was a necessity for a black car. Then, I was told, after they performed the work, it did not protect against swirl marks as I noticed one on the hood.

Ding and Dent/Tire and Wheel - $695.00

Extended Service Plan - $1695.00 which extends the warranty to 10 years on the car for everything. So, I bought it.


Exactly, $3,885.00..
Not to get off topic, but the dealer I bought my 2010 from talked me into some of those extras. ECP The Protector "Paint protection" that left swirl marks everywhere is one.

I had my former 2007 GT undercoated, and I'll never do that again either. It's more of a hassle in the long run than it's worth IMO.

The next time I buy a vehicle, an extended warranty and gap insurance are the only extras I'll get.

Back to the original topic, I'd want a new car too after what you've gone through. A new car shouldn't be anything less than perfect. Period. Not only is a new vehicle a substantial monetary investment for most of us, most take pride in keeping their car as perfect as possible.

Even used, I don't want a car that's had any bodywork or been hacked up with modifications.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcponycar View Post
Gold Package (Paint Protection/Environment Protection) - Honestly, it was sold to me as paint protection, undercoat, and interior protection package. Then, they wrote it down as Gold Package. And then, it inevitably ended up as the 'Environmental Protection Package'. The guy told me it would warranty the paint against hairline scratches and swirl marks you normally see on a black car for 10 years as well as bird crap, tar, etc. 'Bro, you can leave bird crap on the paint and never wash it off and it will not eat through this stuff'. That it was going to feel like a non stick pan when they were done and blah blah blah.. So, I bought it for $1,495.00 as they convinced me it was a necessity for a black car. Then, I was told, after they performed the work, it did not protect against swirl marks as I noticed one on the hood.

Ding and Dent/Tire and Wheel - $695.00

Extended Service Plan - $1695.00 which extends the warranty to 10 years on the car for everything. So, I bought it.


Exactly, $3,885.00..
Hey again USMC,

There's always some Internet tough guy. My father, three uncles and grandfather all served in various branches of the service. One is a Wounded Warrior. It's a hell of a commitment that I have not personally experienced, yet have seen what it means to those I care about, so thanks for your service.

With your car, if a new door matched, would you be satisfied? If you truly want a new car, then that's that. You are the customer and the mistake is the dealership's; with that said, do you have the car or do they? Is it financed through a bank, Ford credit? Obviously a third party lender (private bank) will expect you to continue making payments to keep a note current so as not to impact your credit. In that regard, there's little motivation for the dealership on that end because they've likely already been paid.

I am surprised they don't just suck it up and work out a restocking fee with you. Obviously in 2.5 weeks and 700 miles, the car isn't new. Title paperwork registered. With that said, how much did it really depreciate for a dealership? When you screw up and you're in business, it costs you. They owe you a new, matching door or a new unit on a negotiated scenario (since repainting isn't an option that will satisfy you).

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Hey again USMC,

There's always some Internet tough guy. My father, three uncles and grandfather all served in various branches of the service. One is a Wounded Warrior. It's a hell of a commitment that I have not personally experienced
Oh yeah, what held you back from doing your part tough guy?

2011 Mustang GT M6 3.31s

Matt HONEYCUTT Tune, Lethal Off-Road X, GT500 axlebacks, J&M LCAs, UPR UCA, Whiteline LCA relocation brackets, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, GT500 strut mounts, SR Strut Tower Brace

Best 1/4 E/T (05/18/14 MIR - no tune, X-pipe, or UCA): 12.920 @ 109.40 mph (2.059 60ft)
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And yes, Fatopotomus, I am a Marine. I served 5 years faithfully and honorably. I am not going to get into a pissing match with you but you will not attack my service.
My ass.

Your spoiled brat hysterics, chest puffing, and general 'my daddy's a lawyer' BS belie a lot about you.

Dragging the Marine Corps into your miasma of fail just makes things worse. You expected the service manager to fall on his knees and fellate you because you had a USMC license plate hanger?

What was your MOS by the way?

2011 Mustang GT M6 3.31s

Matt HONEYCUTT Tune, Lethal Off-Road X, GT500 axlebacks, J&M LCAs, UPR UCA, Whiteline LCA relocation brackets, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, GT500 strut mounts, SR Strut Tower Brace

Best 1/4 E/T (05/18/14 MIR - no tune, X-pipe, or UCA): 12.920 @ 109.40 mph (2.059 60ft)
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post #75 of 90 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014 Thread Starter
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My ass.

Your spoiled brat hysterics, chest puffing, and general 'my daddy's a lawyer' BS belie a lot about you.

Dragging the Marine Corps into your miasma of fail just makes things worse. You expected the service manager to fall on his knees and fellate you because you had a USMC license plate hanger?

What was your MOS by the way?
I am again not going to engage you, Eric. You're the one playing the part of the elitist. I simply said the kid was being overly cocky for who he was talking to. And I'm sorry my old man is a lawyer. Have a good day.

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