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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Novice car lowering questions

These newer S197's are still pretty new to me, im learning what I can but only as time and $$ allows and thats not alot.

Im looking to lower my 11 for a better stance, but also handling. I might try an autox once with some buddies, but the car is my daily driver and I do like to run the 1/4 every once in a while. Im on a limited budget so im probably going to have to piece this all together over time, but I figured I would start with springs and the panhard bar to make sure my rear diff stays center. I do know that much.

What would you guys recommend for a daily driver that wants to be able to handle well, remain a nice ride (not jar your kidneys out) yet still be able to launch pretty well off the line? (im not asking for too much right. LOL)

Any opinions are appreciated. I know this is the next mod I need to do when the budget allows it.

Thanks


Greg
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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You need new shocks/struts, New caster camber, springs(duh lol) and a panhard bar.
I suggest blistein shocks/struts.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
You need new shocks/struts, New caster camber, springs(duh lol) and a panhard bar. I suggest blistein shocks/struts.
Ya thanks, im aware of what I need. I was looking for some help in determining which set of springs and type of panhard bar I should buy. I was looking for recommendations from you guys that have done this already. For the springs, there are tons of types, Eibach, Steeda, BMR, H&R, S&R, FRP, etc.. looking to get the best I can with a limited budget.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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How much of a drop do you want? Its a lot easier to narrow down from there!

Also by budget, the cheapest setup to do it well enough will cost you about $750-800.

Roughly, here are the prices:
Springs ~$250
Koni oranges (best shocks/struts for those in a budget) ~$400
Panhard bar ~$150
Camber bolts (these will be a much cheaper option compared to caster camber plates as long as you don't drop your car more than 1.5") ~$30



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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Probably around $500 to start with, that should get me the drop and the panhard bar. As for the drop, im just looking to get rid of some of the wheel gap, yet retain a nice ride and increase the handling without hurting taking off from a dead stop

Greg
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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I am also a DD and used Roush DUB springs which as I understand are the same as Eibach pro, and kept my stock shocks/struts. Given the mild drop and minimal affect on geometry, I did not need caster camber or panhard.

I am currently considering koni orange dampers as well.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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First off, don't do the springs without doing the dampers at the same time. And when you do the dampers and springs, you're going to want to do upper strut mounts and the panhard bar at the same time. Your best bet is to do what I did-piece it all together over a series of months. I bought a new item each month and my timing worked out that I hit some pretty good sales by waiting. But you won't want to either pay or have to do the job twice by doing the springs and dampers separately---plus the car will ride terribly with just springs. Do it right. Do it once.

With regard to what hardware to use--there are too many options! I won't say that you can't go wrong, but buying something from a reputable company will ensure that what you pick won't break in a month. I have a chromoly panhard bar from Steeda. I went a bit overboard on the strut mounts with steeda HD mounts--I think they're pretty good. The steering seems just a bit more communicative to me. The most important parts for performance are the springs and dampers. I installed steeda sport springs and Koni sports/yellows. When the dampers were at full soft all the way around, the car felt very similar to stock with regard to ride--though it smoothed out the harshness over the bumps. On full hard, the car is too much--mostly at the rear. The car bounces like a civic on cut springs. So I think the Koni's give the best compromise on price and adjustability, IMO. You can keep it soft for the streets or hard for a smooth track.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleg View Post
These newer S197's are still pretty new to me, im learning what I can but only as time and $$ allows and thats not alot.

Im looking to lower my 11 for a better stance, but also handling. I might try an autox once with some buddies, but the car is my daily driver and I do like to run the 1/4 every once in a while. Im on a limited budget so im probably going to have to piece this all together over time, but I figured I would start with springs and the panhard bar to make sure my rear diff stays center. I do know that much.

What would you guys recommend for a daily driver that wants to be able to handle well, remain a nice ride (not jar your kidneys out) yet still be able to launch pretty well off the line? (im not asking for too much right. LOL)

Any opinions are appreciated. I know this is the next mod I need to do when the budget allows it.

Thanks
To me, it sounds like our lowering springs (SP009) would be the ticket for you. They are designed as an all around "performance" spring....while slightly increasing the rate up front, and running a similar to OEM rate out back.

They work VERY well for drag racing, retain a great ride, and I have several cars out there running them for handling duty with larger rate sway bars.

As for the panhard bar, there are many, many options out there. Our PHR006 model is likely the most common adjustable panhard bar found underneath S197 Mustangs on the road, today.

As for the dampers - Koni anything, will not work very well for straight line / drag use. The rebound valving on the STR.T and Sports is just too aggressive, to allow for proper front suspension movement when looking for optimized traction.

I am a big fan of the Strange Single Adjustable struts and shocks. For the price, they run about $460 for the set, which I feel is a very good price point for what you get. I have customers running these pieces for daily driving use, drag and handling.

If you were not looking to pick up performance at the track, or straight line...I would say the Koni's would be a solid choice for the price...but I think you should consider something adjustable. That is the only way you will meet your goal of having a 3-trick pony.

I highly suggest you pick up atleast some front struts for the install of the springs. Too many times, I see people "blow out" the front struts on these cars, when lowering their car and retaining the OEM Struts.

That said, my recommendation for your initial purchase/install is:

Lowering Springs $249.95 (BMR)
Strange front Struts $280
GT500 USM $107.95
Adjustable Panhard Bar $139.95

That is going to put you into the $780 range, but you will be glad that you chose to upgrade the struts....especially if you didn't, and have an issue. I dislike seeing hobbyists having to double their work, and spending even more money to get to the same point. IE: If you blow out your OEM struts, you will have to end up buying the new struts, another set of upper mounts, and double the labor.

Happy Modding!

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the info, from the research ive done... I think im going to go with the Eiback Pro kit, the Eibach camber adjustment bolts, and BMR panhard bar. I still have to figure out what im going to do about my shocks and struts because I really dont want to do this all twice. Did I read somewhere that you have to some other kind of shock mounts or something, or was that for sway bars or something else. Just want to get my ducks all in a row before I order anything which will be a while anyway since im going to have to save up first.

Greg
2011 Race Red GT

Just an old married guy (with kids) and two expensive hobbies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleg View Post
Thanks guys for the info, from the research ive done... I think im going to go with the Eiback Pro kit, the Eibach camber adjustment bolts, and BMR panhard bar. I still have to figure out what im going to do about my shocks and struts because I really dont want to do this all twice. Did I read somewhere that you have to some other kind of shock mounts or something, or was that for sway bars or something else. Just want to get my ducks all in a row before I order anything which will be a while anyway since im going to have to save up first.
Skip the camber bolts.

If you flip your upper strut mounts around 180 degrees, it should put you back into spec for the camber. Flipping them, will move the strut outboard about 1/4". On a 1.5"~ drop, this will take you from about -1.7 degrees camber, down to the -1.4 to -1.5 range. Spec is 0 to -1.5... A little negative camber is good for these cars.

If you are set on the Pro-Kit springs, I suggest also looking into the FRPP K-Springs. Go with whichever one you find the best deal on.

As for the upper strut mounts, I am personally a fan of the GT500 Upper Strut Mounts. You cannot use them with your OEM 11+ Struts, though. You will want to purchase a set of struts that are designed for an 05-10 Mustang, and acquire the GT500 Mounts.

Good luck! Let me know if you need any assistance with anything!

Dylan Abbott
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I'm using the UPR Pro Series Lowering Springs. They're made for us by Eibach, to the same specs as Pro Kit springs, but I believe our springs are a lot cheaper. These are great dual purpose springs. My car works just as well on the drag strip as it does on the road course, and it also sees 2000 miles per month as a daily driver, including taking my kids to school. I think you'd like them.

I don't recommend camber bolts. The extra camber you pick up with the springs actually improves cornering, with minimal tire wear issues. I do recommend the UPR panhard bar though.


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Pick up a used set of coilovers. A matched spring + strut set will be much better than just springs. And your struts won't fail prematurely either.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Tech View Post
Skip the camber bolts.

If you flip your upper strut mounts around 180 degrees, it should put you back into spec for the camber. Flipping them, will move the strut outboard about 1/4". On a 1.5"~ drop, this will take you from about -1.7 degrees camber, down to the -1.4 to -1.5 range. Spec is 0 to -1.5... A little negative camber is good for these cars.

If you are set on the Pro-Kit springs, I suggest also looking into the FRPP K-Springs. Go with whichever one you find the best deal on.

As for the upper strut mounts, I am personally a fan of the GT500 Upper Strut Mounts. You cannot use them with your OEM 11+ Struts, though. You will want to purchase a set of struts that are designed for an 05-10 Mustang, and acquire the GT500 Mounts.

Good luck! Let me know if you need any assistance with anything!
I ordered Strange S6011LM struts for my '11 GT. They are for 11-14 mustangs. So, the GT500 mounts won't work?
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