Do I need to resurface front Rotors - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014 Thread Starter
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Do I need to resurface front Rotors

I have the Brembo Brake option on my car. I used the stock pads at the road course track one day and the next morning I noticed the pads were about done. So I installed Hawk HP Plus pads for that day and I have had them on my car since for about 2 months and less than 2000 miles. I have a total of approximately 16000 miles on the car. I am tired of the embarrassing squeal of the brakes when stopping slowly so I ordered EBC Red Stuff ceramic pads for the street. I have EBC Red Stuff pads for the front and rear but I only plan on changing the front pads as the rear pads have a lot of miles left in them.

So the question is>>>> Can I just switch the pads in the front without resurfacing/turning the front rotors? I don't believe the OEM rotors are scored or warped at all and I don't want them getting thinner due to having them turned if they don't need to be. Stock rotors are at least 250 dollars each according to the dealer.


2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014
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inspect them and if they look good then I say no point in turning them.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014
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If there's no steering wheel shake/shimmy, you're fine.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014
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As noted, don't turn the rotors unless it's totally unavoidable. If it were mine, I'd replace rather than turn them- if needed.
Look at the braking surface- if it's mirror smooth, scuff it with Scotchbrite, but that's about all you need.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the feedback. Since the rotors show no signs of distress and no shake or shimmy of the steering wheel I will scuff it with scotchbrite if too smooth and shiny or if there are contaminates from the pads on there now.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2014
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I'd just install the new pads unless the rotors are pretty grooved as evidenced by rubbing the tip of your fingernail across the surface of the rotor.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014
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A scotchbrite pad will do absolutely nothing. And if you didn't use a serious amount of anti-squeal grease when you installed your current set of pads, that's your real issue, not the pads.

Plus, bigger brakes squeal, there's no way around it. Larger brakes, larger tolerances to allow for heat expansion, more squeal.

And if some brake squeal "embarrasses" you, I don't know what to say. That's just weird.

2012 GT Premium, Brembo PP, MT82, 3.73s, Blk/Blk. Bama 93R, Koni Yellow Rear Shocks, Hawk Ceramic pads, Luxurious & Plush Floor Mats
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVa5.0 View Post
A scotchbrite pad will do absolutely nothing. And if you didn't use a serious amount of anti-squeal grease when you installed your current set of pads, that's your real issue, not the pads.

Plus, bigger brakes squeal, there's no way around it. Larger brakes, larger tolerances to allow for heat expansion, more squeal.

And if some brake squeal "embarrasses" you, I don't know what to say. That's just weird.
I guess the scotchbrite pad could only help remove any contaminants outside of the brake pad contact zone. It appears the EBC brakes have a Brake-In-Coating that will clean off the rotor.

Now that I think of it, I did not use any anti-squeal grease when I installed the pads at the track(I think I counted on the grease that was on the thin gauge plate that came with the OEM brake pads. I re-used that plate). I will use grease with the EBC pads this time and I thought I saw some type of paper gaskets in the box with the pads. I need to figure out where they go exactly. Now that grease in my opinion eliminates the squeal from the pad support metal contacting the pistons. Am I wrong? The squeal I get is very loud and occurs when I try to come to a slow stop. I can eliminate that if I come to a quick hard stop and then I hear the friction between the pad and the rotor. Thus I believe my squeal is from pad to rotor interface. Maybe I am wrong and don't understand how the grease works.

And Heck Yes the squeal is so loud it is embarrassing because people will look around and wonder what the heck is wrong with that guys brakes in the Mustang. If that is weird then I guess I am weird about that.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMDmustang13 View Post
I guess the scotchbrite pad could only help remove any contaminants outside of the brake pad contact zone. It appears the EBC brakes have a Brake-In-Coating that will clean off the rotor.

Now that I think of it, I did not use any anti-squeal grease when I installed the pads at the track. I will with the EBC pads this time. Now that grease in my opinion eliminates the squeal from the pad support metal contacting the pistons. Am I wrong? The squeal I get is very loud and occurs when I try to come to a slow stop. I can eliminate that if I come to a quick hard stop and then I hear the friction between the pad and the rotor. Thus I believe my squeal is from pad to rotor interface. Maybe I am wrong and don't understand how the grease works.

And Heck Yes the squeal is so loud it is embarrassing because people will look around and wonder what the heck is wrong with that guys brakes in the Mustang. If that is weird then I guess I am weird about that.
First, I can almost guarantee that if you wash your car by hand, paying close attention to the wheels, a lot of the squeal will go away. I had such bad squeal, I thought I needed new pads. After an afternoon of loving on my car, most of the squeal went away. Brake dust gets everywhere, and some of it gets hosed off when you wash your car.

And anti-squeal grease will help too. Lots of it at any parts store, it's a normal part of changing pads, doing a break job. You probably do not need new pads, just some anti-squeal grease. How many miles on the current pads?

Still, big brakes squeal. Screw worrying about what other people think.

2012 GT Premium, Brembo PP, MT82, 3.73s, Blk/Blk. Bama 93R, Koni Yellow Rear Shocks, Hawk Ceramic pads, Luxurious & Plush Floor Mats
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Smile

Yes I usually wash my car by hand and sometimes go use high pressure wand at car wash. I had the exterior of the car nanoskinned, polished, glazed, waxed, and the guy also used some type of wheel cleaner with acid to clean my rims. Shinier than I had ever seen. Looked like it got sprayed on the rotors also. Still squealed.

They squeal because they are pads for the track and are known to be noisy. There can't be many miles on the pads. Maybe 500 to 600 miles since I was at the track on May 25th. I just want to take the track pads off and put them back on next year when I go to the track.

The OEM pads never squealed or made any noise. Thanks for you advice.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVa5.0 View Post
First, I can almost guarantee that if you wash your car by hand, paying close attention to the wheels, a lot of the squeal will go away. I had such bad squeal, I thought I needed new pads. After an afternoon of loving on my car, most of the squeal went away. Brake dust gets everywhere, and some of it gets hosed off when you wash your car.

And anti-squeal grease will help too. Lots of it at any parts store, it's a normal part of changing pads, doing a break job. You probably do not need new pads, just some anti-squeal grease. How many miles on the current pads?

Still, big brakes squeal. Screw worrying about what other people think.
Track pads can and will squeal regardless of rotor diameter. Personally, I'd be afraid to use any anti-squeal grease . . . and then take my car out to a track day. If you're running hard enough that 1300 pads are marginal, what do you think will happen to the grease and where do you think it will end up?


I think it was on another forum where a member has apparently added a sticker that says "My brakes squeal because race car".


Norm

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014 Thread Starter
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I removed the front Hawk pads last night and they appear to be about 5% used at the most. I removed the metal shim plates(Is there an official terminology for those), cleaned with brake cleaner, spread EBC Brake Grease on both sides, and installed the EBC Redstuff pads. No more squealing yet.

FYI my Ford Manual shows to drive the pins out away from the car. But in reality you drive the pins out toward the car.

2013 GT, Track Pack, Recaros, Kooks Axlebacks, Airaid CAI, BMR Rear Adj. LCAs, BMR Relocation Brackets, JLT Oil Separator(s), Barton 2 Post Shifter Bracket, Steeda Motor Mounts, Barton Shifter, JHR Clutch line, BMR adj. UCA and Mount, Kooks 1 3/4 headers/catted H, DSS Al Shaft, BMR Loop, Vogtland Sport Springs front/BMR rear, Strange Adj. Struts/Shocks, Extended ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, Whiteline Tranny Mount Bushing, Borla Overaxles, BMR Watts, Vorshlag 3" Ducts
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