Power cutting late in the day at the drag strip - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015 Thread Starter
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Power cutting late in the day at the drag strip

Yesterday I was at the drag strip with my for the most part stock 2012 Mustang GT (axle back exhaust, Shelby wheels and PSS tires). I had AdvanceTrac shut off (stability and traction control were off). I had 20+ runs and my best one was the third run. After the 3rd I filled up and never seem to get close to that again. After filling up I was consistently getting 13.5's. A few times though later in the day, at launch, the car would just bog down. At first I thought it was my tires getting good grip and I just didn't rev it up high enough to launch. But it got worse and worse to the point where it felt like it was starved for fuel, like a computer was killing the engine for half a second. Then it started happening at the beginning of second gear also. I looked down to confirm that the AdvanteTrac was off. I still had half a tank fuel and it wasn't cutting power on me when it was at 1/4 tank before filling up. Any ideas as to what caused this?


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015
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Probably heat soak and DA change later in the day. 20+ runs seems like a little much on the car in one outing. You probably didn't give it enough cool down time between runs and the heat just builds.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015
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20 runs is really pushing it at the track. You would of been building ALOT of heat. But anyhow I know what you're talking about with the inconsistency of your car. I tried getting into bracket racing my 2014 GT automatic and finally gave up. The car was fast enough but the ET's varied by tenths not hundreths which made dialing the car impossible. And I ran M.T. drag radials and had zero tire spin. We messed with it for all of last year and part of this year and finally decided it was a waste of time. I don't know if the computer constantly makes adjustments that makes it vary so much or what.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015
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It was probably a combination of weight and heat. A full tank vs a near empty one is a considerable weight difference and heat can easily kill some power. The combination of the 2 could easily show up in your ETs. Also if the gas you filled up with was of a lower quality, your ECU might have gotten a bit more conservative with ignition timing.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015 Thread Starter
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My only thought about heat is that the temperature gauge didn't rise. Unless it was heat soak into the gas line. Someone told me to take the engine shield off on top of the engine as it traps heat and heats the gas. But that still wouldn't kill all power would it? If so why would it only do it at launch? Because after launch it would have cleared the fuel line of hot gas?

Thank you all for your replies.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015
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Chances of you getting a bad tank of gas?

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gator3-7 View Post
It was probably a combination of weight and heat. A full tank vs a near empty one is a considerable weight difference and heat can easily kill some power. The combination of the 2 could easily show up in your ETs. Also if the gas you filled up with was of a lower quality, your ECU might have gotten a bit more conservative with ignition timing.
I didn't fill the tank because of that reason. I only put in 5 gallons. But i do agree, my theory is heat soak and bad gas.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015 Thread Starter
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Chances of you getting a bad tank of gas?
Very high. I had never filled up at this station before that day.

2012 Ford GT Premium. Stock. It's a bad ass car as it is so I'm not in any hurry to mod it.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewkozicki View Post
My only thought about heat is that the temperature gauge didn't rise.

Thank you all for your replies.
Just a note, I know the later model cars (2012? 2013+?) have some more detailed displays and gauges, but on my 2011 the temp gauge needle is basically locked in the center position, even when idling on a 110F day. I have a feeling it's programmed to read normal until some set point like 225F (a guess), at which time it will jump to the red.

I hate gauges that are filtered or nerfed into idiot lights.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zathras View Post
Just a note, I know the later model cars (2012? 2013+?) have some more detailed displays and gauges, but on my 2011 the temp gauge needle is basically locked in the center position, even when idling on a 110F day. I have a feeling it's programmed to read normal until some set point like 225F (a guess), at which time it will jump to the red.

I hate gauges that are filtered or nerfed into idiot lights.
Yeah, I've always called these dummy gauges. Pretty much all modern cars have them. They're designed to read exactly the same thing as long as the temperature is roughly within the normal range to prevent people going into the dealer and wasting a tech's time while their vehicle is under warranty just because its running a bit hotter than usual. If you really want to know your engine temp, use a tuner or aftermarket gauge.

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