GT500 LCA's - Worth Upgrading? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015 Thread Starter
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GT500 LCA's - Worth Upgrading?

Is it worth replacing my factory GT500 lower control arms with aftermarket arms?

My car is a garage queen that will eventually end up supercharged in the next two years. I occasionally have light wheel hop, but I'd like to have a firmer rear axle. Are the GT500 arm bushings good enough to keep and just upgrade my upper control arm?

BTW, I'm leaning towards using Whiteline control arms. I want something quiet - I had spherical bearings on my MM LCA's in my Foxbody and they transferred way too much noise!



'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015
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The source of the hop is up top. You may get it somewhat under control with LCAs but the time/money is better spent upgrading the top first. The amount of NVH you get really depends on what sort of rear end noise the rubber is masking. My old 3.73 car had a little whine between 60-70 mph that appeared when I added the poly LCAs. I used a Roush rubber upper first and that tamped down the hop alot without added noise and added the poly LCAs later bc I do alot of drag racing and it couldn't hurt. Didn't get much extra out of the LCAs but the upper was a huge improvement.

On my new 14 car I have the Steeda poly upper awaiting install and the salvaged LCAs from the old car. In this case the LCAs went on first bc it's a smaller job. Again, some improvement but the hop is still slightly there. This new car is auto so, it has less problems than the former stick car, which was paralysed by wheelhop.


2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015
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I did the top with Steeda and worked out well. Make sure you replace the bracket as well. The OEM bracket is no comparison to the after market.


2011 Red Candy /build 2/1/11/ 401A
MT with Redline MTL/ Brembos/355's/glass roof
Shaker 1000/Scoops/Clear bra/Steeda UCA and PH bar
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Shaftmasters DS/BMR loop & relocation brackets
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015
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I added lca relocation brackets and a bmr adjustable Uca. No hop.

Opinion - you're wasting your money and time wanting no/little nvh when you make performance suspension mods.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015 Thread Starter
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Any bushing other than the stock, mushy rubber ones is going to create more NVH - it's just a matter on how much more.


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrbrBlu View Post
Any bushing other than the stock, mushy rubber ones is going to create more NVH - it's just a matter on how much more.
not sure if you know what NVH is.. Youre basically saying (for example) that a softer shock will be harsher than a really stiff shock. This is not true..

any bushing other than the factory rubber with increase the NVH but fix the sloppyness.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015 Thread Starter
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I'm not quite sure what I was sipping on when I wrote the last post, LOL. I was trying to say that aftermarket bushings (stiffer, less deflection) are going to create more NVH than the mushy OEM rubber bushings.

I know that stiffer bushing is going to transfer more noise, but I don't want something as bad as I had with my Foxbody upgrades. When the windows rolled up, the gear whine was unbearable. My new car has always had some gear whine, so I' concerned how much more NVH I'll gain between the different types of aftermarket bushings.


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2015 Thread Starter
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I'm not quite sure what I was sipping on when I wrote the last post, LOL. I was trying to say that aftermarket bushings (stiffer, less deflection) are going to create more NVH than the mushy OEM rubber bushings.

I know that stiffer bushing is going to transfer more noise, but I don't want something as bad as I had with my Foxbody upgrades. With the windows rolled up, the gear whine was unbearable. My new car has always had some gear whine, so I' concerned how much more NVH I'll gain between the different types of aftermarket bushings.


'14 Grabber Blue GT - Base 300A, Track Pack, Recaro seats - Mods: SCT X4, BBK long tubes and X-pipe, Roush axlebacks, MGW shifter, BMR LCAs and UCA w/ mount
'93 Reef Blue LX 5.0 - 5-speed, black interior, factory A/C delete - GT40P Top End, 5-Lug/4-Wheel Disc - SOLD
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrbrBlu View Post
I'm not quite sure what I was sipping on when I wrote the last post, LOL. I was trying to say that aftermarket bushings (stiffer, less deflection) are going to create more NVH than the mushy OEM rubber bushings.

I know that stiffer bushing is going to transfer more noise, but I don't want something as bad as I had with my Foxbody upgrades. With the windows rolled up, the gear whine was unbearable. My new car has always had some gear whine, so I' concerned how much more NVH I'll gain between the different types of aftermarket bushings.
id say forget about the gt500 ones and start thinking of the BMR $90 ones or if you want adjustable then i would say the whiteline ones would be fine.

2014 Black 5.0 Track Pack with to many mods.
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I'd say skip the adjustability in the lower arms...the thing you'll really want to adjust in pinion angle at the upper. From what you are saying your usage is, the stock upper bracket will be fine, so just replace the arm itself.

The Roush replaces both the arm and the bracket and is a good choice if adjustabilty isn't important to you and no NVH is. These cars are kettle drums out back, if I am honest so, you need to be careful about what you can tolerate.

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
I'd say skip the adjustability in the lower arms...the thing you'll really want to adjust in pinion angle at the upper. From what you are saying your usage is, the stock upper bracket will be fine, so just replace the arm itself.

The Roush replaces both the arm and the bracket and is a good choice if adjustabilty isn't important to you and no NVH is. These cars are kettle drums out back, if I am honest so, you need to be careful about what you can tolerate.
Well I WOULD SAY, im just kidding. I just added a watts link and the pivot bolt is about 3/16ths of a inch away from hitting the cross bar. IT worrys me a bit i doubt itll ever hit it tho since my uca and mount are bmr and stiff. So for me, adjustable would help me out by moving the rear axle forward a bit giving more clearance.

2014 Black 5.0 Track Pack with to many mods.
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