2011 Mustang GT Purchase - Page 3 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Originally Posted by LosAngelesGT View Post
Just bought it!! She runs STRONG
You expressed some concern about cylinder #8 pre-detonation, there is a mod to help with that. Basically every engine has a cylinder that runs hot, even motorcycles, it is usually toward the rear and gets the least amount of cooling. MMR has come up with a mod that requires tapping out the freeze plugs on the back of the block to allow circulation of coolant away from this cylinder. Here is the link:
MMR 2011-2016 Mustang GT 5.0 Head Cooling Mod [455478] - $199.99 : Modular Motorsports, Home of the Worlds Fastest Modular Engines

The mod may require pulling the engine part way to install, but is a great idea otherwise.

A good tuner like Brenspeed, Bama, VMP, or Steeda should be able to tune safely for you to make that horse run even better. Good luck


DT

2010 GT Premium / Automatic / RapidSpec 401A Leather Interior / MMD Decklid Panel / MMD Classic Quarter Window Louvers / MMD Black Tail Light Trim / GT500 Splash Guards / GT Valve Caps / FRPP GT500 Brake Cooling Shields / FRPP-SVT GT500 Cooling Fan / Steeda LCAs / Whiteline Front Sway, RTR Rear / Whiteline Adj Panhard / Redline Hood Struts / JLT Oil Separator / JLT Series 3 Cold Air Intake / Pypes O/R X-pipe / Pypes Violators Axelbacks / Steeda UDP / Steeda CMDPlugs / Brenspeed Tune
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Congrats!

[QUOTE=LosAngelesGT;8275905]Just bought it!! She runs STRONG

Congratulations, man! I hope all is good...and have fun turning your back tires into slicks...


-1983 5.0 GT Red/Black.5MT.3:73.FMS Lowering Springs
-2011 5.0 GT Prem.Kona Blue.6MT.19" Nickel Wheels.3:73.Comf Pack. Blk/Cshmr Int
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Is a cooling mod necessary for these Coyote 5.0's???

If so WHAT IS FORD THINKING ANYWAY????
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Inspect the hood seem carefully. I purchased my 2013 with 42,900 back in January, and it did have corrosion. Above the driver's side headlight (I only noticed it because it had crept topside), and several areas at both sides beneath the hood. The car had it when I bought it. Initially, I thought it was a bad touch-up job, but nope: corrosion. I went back to the dealership and they ate the cost of the strip/treat/repaint. How long it will last is anyone's guess, but I'm hopeful. Regardless, I'm setting aside money for a fiberglass hood - should that become necessary. I'll tell you though, I've had the car two months and absolutely love it! And mine is "only" a V6. I'm jealous of GT's V8 sound, but completely content with my 305 ponies.

"I've secretly replaced your tow-rope with a bungee cord. Let's see what happens..."
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Originally Posted by Coosawjack View Post
Is a cooling mod necessary for these Coyote 5.0's???

If so WHAT IS FORD THINKING ANYWAY????
You don't need a cooling mod, that's just good marketing by the people selling it. I've owned 2 Coyotes and drove them hard with no issues.
5.0 Coyote likes this.

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You don't need a cooling mod, that's just good marketing by the people selling it. I've owned 2 Coyotes and drove them hard with no issues.
+ 1
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There ain't no such thing as "pre-detonation". At no time is detonation helpful, pre or otherwise. You mean pre-ignition, which is an uncontrolled combustion event out of time with the expected one, causing conflicting wave fronts in that cylinder. It doesn't have to do with necessarily a cylinder running hot, though it can. #8 does run a little hotter in this motor yes, due to airflow and a little leaner mix there and cooling system design but, tuners figured this out before we sang Auld Lang Syne on 2011.

Three seasons of DR on my 2012 and at the end, all 8 cylinders showed the maximum allowable compression, to the pound so, it ain't an issue

2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto tune, 100 shot on BBR tune, best et: 11.38 at 120.85

2012 GT, Candy Red, Brembo, 3.73, Tech, Comfort, etc. Procal tune, Roush upper, UMI LCAs, Steeda red bracket, GT500s, 28X10X16 Hoosier slicks, best et: 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Congratulations on the new car. I've had paint issues on my 14 GT. Ford fixed the ones on the underside of my trunk lid but won't fix the ones on the underside of the hood. I bought my car new and have only had some minor issues but I think I have the water getting trapped in the rear quarter panel problem now. My car sat in my garage for about 2 months without being driven and when I put the front up on ramps to change the oil, I had water draining out right before the passenger side rear tire.

Before I put the car up for the 2 months, I had taken it on vacation and got caught in a few thunder storms so I'm sure the water was from that.

Wayne

2014 GT, Sterling Gray, base model, Automatic
GT500 AB, GT500 OTA pipes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thereaper View Post
You don't need a cooling mod, that's just good marketing by the people selling it. I've owned 2 Coyotes and drove them hard with no issues.
Thanks!! We had to do one on my '04 Marauder motor and it was NO FUN!!
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I can vouch for 2014 . almost 1800 miles or 3000 kilometers on mine and not a singe issue. time to start mods. I wish you well.
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post #41 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-31-2016 Thread Starter
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[quote=dewyrussler;8286073]
Quote:
Originally Posted by LosAngelesGT View Post
Just bought it!! She runs STRONG

Congratulations, man! I hope all is good...and have fun turning your back tires into slicks...
Oh man these pirelli's are almost bald!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanistre13 View Post
Inspect the hood seem carefully. I purchased my 2013 with 42,900 back in January, and it did have corrosion. Above the driver's side headlight (I only noticed it because it had crept topside), and several areas at both sides beneath the hood. The car had it when I bought it. Initially, I thought it was a bad touch-up job, but nope: corrosion. I went back to the dealership and they ate the cost of the strip/treat/repaint. How long it will last is anyone's guess, but I'm hopeful. Regardless, I'm setting aside money for a fiberglass hood - should that become necessary. I'll tell you though, I've had the car two months and absolutely love it! And mine is "only" a V6. I'm jealous of GT's V8 sound, but completely content with my 305 ponies.
Haven't noticed any yet. Fingers crossed it stays that way!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thereaper View Post
You don't need a cooling mod, that's just good marketing by the people selling it. I've owned 2 Coyotes and drove them hard with no issues.
Glad to hear it, I'm driving the **** out of this thing.
I've also heard of a cooling mod for the auto tranny - is that also unnecessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
There ain't no such thing as "pre-detonation". At no time is detonation helpful, pre or otherwise. You mean pre-ignition, which is an uncontrolled combustion event out of time with the expected one, causing conflicting wave fronts in that cylinder. It doesn't have to do with necessarily a cylinder running hot, though it can. #8 does run a little hotter in this motor yes, due to airflow and a little leaner mix there and cooling system design but, tuners figured this out before we sang Auld Lang Syne on 2011.

Three seasons of DR on my 2012 and at the end, all 8 cylinders showed the maximum allowable compression, to the pound so, it ain't an issue
DR? Glad it's not an issue though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70monte View Post
Congratulations on the new car. I've had paint issues on my 14 GT. Ford fixed the ones on the underside of my trunk lid but won't fix the ones on the underside of the hood. I bought my car new and have only had some minor issues but I think I have the water getting trapped in the rear quarter panel problem now. My car sat in my garage for about 2 months without being driven and when I put the front up on ramps to change the oil, I had water draining out right before the passenger side rear tire.

Before I put the car up for the 2 months, I had taken it on vacation and got caught in a few thunder storms so I'm sure the water was from that.

Wayne
I park on a hill so I guess I won't be running into that issue! Anything is an improvement over my 05 GT that leaked into the freaking passenger side footwell and SJB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UUUd444 View Post
I can vouch for 2014 . almost 1800 miles or 3000 kilometers on mine and not a singe issue. time to start mods. I wish you well.
Time to start mods---- when I have money!! I want a tune and axleback right away

2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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I have a very early build (3/10) 2011 GT/CS convertible that we bought in the summer of 2014 with 61,700 miles on the clock.

I have all the service records as the dealer from whom I bought it, sold it as new serviced it from the very beginning.

At 11K miles the differential ring gear and pinion was replaced (known issue with TSB)
At 25K miles the steering gear was replaced
Stereo speakers replaced at 20K and 30K miles (assuming not all at once, most likely individual ones).
62K miles the lower control arms were replaced due to squeaking when turning the wheels (known issue with TSB)
62K miles passenger seat track replaced as it was binding
65K miles blend door actuator replaced
66K miles replaced the instrument cluster due to the Oil Last Life monitor stopped working along with fixing a transmission oil leak that was caused by a bad seal around a sleeve for a sensor (both are know issues with TSBs)

The engines itself has been solid.

2016 Roush Stage 3 Phase 2 Convertible- Convertible bar, Roush (red) coil covers, blacked out tails, 20% tint
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post #43 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoHawks63 View Post
I have a very early build (3/10) 2011 GT/CS convertible that we bought in the summer of 2014 with 61,700 miles on the clock.

I have all the service records as the dealer from whom I bought it, sold it as new serviced it from the very beginning.

At 11K miles the differential ring gear and pinion was replaced (known issue with TSB)
At 25K miles the steering gear was replaced
Stereo speakers replaced at 20K and 30K miles (assuming not all at once, most likely individual ones).
62K miles the lower control arms were replaced due to squeaking when turning the wheels (known issue with TSB)
62K miles passenger seat track replaced as it was binding
65K miles blend door actuator replaced
66K miles replaced the instrument cluster due to the Oil Last Life monitor stopped working along with fixing a transmission oil leak that was caused by a bad seal around a sleeve for a sensor (both are know issues with TSBs)

The engines itself has been solid.
That sounds truly awful.
I've been lucky up until now - the only complaints I've had was the rear-view mirror making a rattle noise, and some rattle noise which is probably a clip somewhere by the rear passenger side window/seat/carpeted part above the seat.
A couple weeks ago, the ac door blend actuator went out for controlling the defrost and center air flow. Fine whatever, not a big deal right? It went out on my 05, and it's just a $30 part that I can access myself through the glove-box. The AC still worked and would still switch, just had to deal with the tapping sound for 10 seconds.
However, early today my AC suddenly completely stopped blowing cold air. Really hoping it's not my AC compressor, I can't afford a $1500 repair and it's currently 90 degrees in LA.

2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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post #44 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016 Thread Starter
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Yet another 2011 GT with AC going out.

Hey Guys,

Got my 2011 GT at 44,500 miles around a month ago. The only cars I've ever owned have been black mustang GTs. I almost went the camaro route as my 05 GT was a problem child and left a bad taste in my mouth about Ford. Never the less I've dreamed about the 5.0 since it came out, and after test driving I fell in love and bought it.

I've been lucky up until now - the only complaints I've had was the rear-view mirror making a rattle noise, and some rattle noise which is probably a clip somewhere by the rear passenger side window/seat/carpeted part above the seat.

A couple weeks ago, the ac door blend actuator went out for switching from the windshield defrost to center air flow. Fine whatever, not a big deal right? It went out on my 05, and it's just a $30 part that I can access myself through the glove-box. The AC still worked and would still switch, just had to deal with the tapping sound for 10 seconds.
However, early today my AC suddenly completely stopped blowing cold air. Really hoping it's not my AC compressor, I can't afford a $1500 repair and it's currently 90 degrees in LA.
Could the AC blend door actuator be related to the AC going out? What's everything I can check at home before having to take it to a mechanic?

THIS CAR ONLY HAS 45,500 MILES! IT SHOULD NOT BE DOING THIS.
My 03's AC lasted until 140,000 miles.

2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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post #45 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016 Thread Starter
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Did some digging - sounds like the 2011 compressors are as ****** as the 05s alternators and the 05's ability to keep water out of the cabin!
Air Conditioning went out... - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums

And they all conveniently go out around 35xxx to 45xxx miles. I'm at 45,500. Still holding out hope it's something simple and not the compressor.


2001 Mustang GT - Crashed (Other person's fault) Stock.
2003 Mustang GT - Sold
Lowered, Flowmaster catbacks, CAI + Tune, 5% tint all around, American racing wheels.
2005 Mustang GT - Traded in
"Performance" spark plugs and ignition coils, 5% tint on back 3 - 20% on front two, 20 inch silver AMR wheels
2011 Mustang GT - BEAST
5% tint all around. 2014 GT premium wheels. Roush axleback
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