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2011 Mustang GT Purchase

5K views 43 replies 20 participants last post by  LosAngelesGT 
#1 ·
Hey Guys,

My entire car history has been Mustangs. Mustang GT's to be exact. I've owned a 2001, a 2003, and now a 2005. I thought all of them looked great and were fun cars for a great price. I'm looking into moving up to a 2011 GT - however the 2005 left me with a bitter taste in my mouth. I love the car, love the look, but I've had so many issues with it due to poor factory design. Water leaking into the passenger foot well (AND SJB!) with car-washes - body shops still can't pin point the source. Alternator frequently going out due to being woefully under-powered, solenoid going out at just 80,000 and destroying my tranny along with it... You get the point.
This 2011 will be my first financed car, rather than paying all in cash. I'll be stretching my budget a little to get this 2011, but I really want it.
What are some things to look out for?
I know they have a bigger alternator, a better tranny (auto) and fixed the water leak issues. What issues are still around?
How likely will it be for me to get the "bubbling hood" issue? Will ford repair it out of warranty (over 36,000)?
 
#2 ·
You most likely can expect more of the same...LOL.

I own a 2005 GT with Manual transmission. Never a major problem with the car...but oh, the minor problems have been numerous. And I could figure out your water leak...lots of experience with that issue.

If you are tired of the problems, buy a Japanese designed car, and one actually made in Japan, as many are not.

From what I've read, the 6-speed manual transmission is the biggest potential problem with 2011 models of Mustang GT. Some early V-8 engines of that model also a problem, yet very few. Others have also had the corroded aluminum hood problem...which continued up to 2012, maybe later.

According to Consumer Reports...2011 models had problems in these areas: Climate control system, paint/trim, noises/leaks.

Personal note: Though I still own the 2005 Mustang GT, I'm now driving a 2015 Scion FRS, bought new, now 26,000 miles on the FRS and zero problems so far. That's zero !
 
#6 ·
I know! Japanese cars are the ****. They keep going forever. But I just love a big burbly V8 and that torque.

I am in a similar situation, and holding out for a 2012. I don't like the hood/grill on the 2013-14 cars and I am afraid of the first year issues with the 2011.

I think it is a crap shoot. I'd like to find a 2012 with low mileage so it still has some of the factory warranty left, in case there are problems with the transmission or whatever.

The hood corrosion problem continues to this day so no avoiding that.

But I am still undecided, my 2010 has been practically problem free, great car and it is paid for . . . do I REALLY need the extra 100 HP?
What first year issues with 2011? The car I'm looking at has 40k miles, would those issues have reared its ugly head by now?
So if the hood corrosion issues continues to this day, is there any chance Ford will repair it?
315 Horses is still a lot. My 05 had a lot of get up and go, roughly the same 315 with an aftermarket CAI/Tune. Honestly if I hadn't had countless issues, and the tranny going out on top of that, I would have kept it. I'm stretching myself to afford the 2011, simply because I want a "silver lining" to the headaches I've been dealing with, especially figuring out how to get to and from work and do my job while it's been in the shop. I work 12 hour days, and commute 2 hours daily (damn LA traffic). I feel like I deserve a car that makes me smile every-time I start her up, even if it isn't the most responsible financial decision.:grin:
 
#3 ·
I bought my early build 2011 (4/26/10) A/T GT brand new,the only problem that I have had in almost 6 years is my fuel pump went out at 5000 miles,Ford replaced it no problem.I have NO other problems and no hood corrosion, Kona Blue paint is perfect.My engine has NO ticks or noise(5W30 Mobil One with a bottle of Hyper Lube I would say you should be very happy with the 2011 Mustang GT,I love mine.PS. Also NO water leaks or rattles.
 
#5 ·
That's what I want to hear!!
 
#4 ·
I am in a similar situation, and holding out for a 2012. I don't like the hood/grill on the 2013-14 cars and I am afraid of the first year issues with the 2011.

I think it is a crap shoot. I'd like to find a 2012 with low mileage so it still has some of the factory warranty left, in case there are problems with the transmission or whatever.

The hood corrosion problem continues to this day so no avoiding that.

But I am still undecided, my 2010 has been practically problem free, great car and it is paid for . . . do I REALLY need the extra 100 HP?
 
#7 ·
I owned a 2011 5.0 GT with a manual trans about oh 3 years ago now. Had it for 2 years and loved it. I will say it had the trans whine so loud people thought it was supercharged, BBQ engine tick, and I think that was it. Ford said both were normal and did pretty much nothing. Seems you are getting an auto though so you should have to worry about the manual trans whine. The BBQ tick is on all 11-14 cars. Some quieter than others and some louder than others. EVERY SINGLE ONE I HAVE HEARD HAS IT. I fully believe he people that say they don't hear it don't realize the sound we are talking about. haha

I would recommend a manual, but that is just personal preference. Go for it and you won't be disappointed. All used cars are going to have issues. For instance I am having issues with my 2013 Boss 302 currently it is just part of the deal is what I am learning/have learned over the years.

Keep us posted and if you have questions ask here before buying. I am sure all of us are willing to help. Feel free to PM me if you like about direct questions.
 
#10 ·
Appreciate the support man! I'll be sure to drop you a PM should I have any specific questions.

I remember my 05 mustang gt and its issues. I had the passenger side leak but ford fixed it. The e brake locked up. Passenger seat belt wouldn't unlock so we had to cut it. But ford fixed those too.

I've had several stangs too and my favorite is my 14 mustang gt and close beside it was my 03 cobra. All cars will have issues. Even foreign cars. So far no issues with my 14 A6 and its 10x's better than my 05 and my 05 had cai, delete plates, udp's, full exhaust, stage 3 cams, 373's and some suspension mods and interior/exterior mods.
If you haven't driven one, just find one to test drive.
Yes sir, the 05's certainly have their quirks. I bought it at a little under 70,000 miles so every repair was on me not ford. I've already test driven the 2011 I'm interested in. I'm excited at the prospect of getting this car with the lowest miles on a car I've ever owned (40,000). I drive my cars really hard, but I also maintain them really well. Religiously swapping all fluids etc. Hopefully because I'll be getting it with relatively low miles my maintenance habits will give me lots of life from this thing. Unfortunately I couldn't really stomp on it during the test drive. The sales-guy was having a panic attack when I gave it a quick blast to 60, plus there were cops EVERYWHERE. I'm excited to hear it's your favorite so far, I really want this thing! :grin:

Wow, my car must be a rarity. Bought my 2011 new and in the first month supercharged it and voided the warranty. I drive it hard, not stupid hard but I don't baby it. I have never had any of the Mt 6 problems, nor any hood corroision, no BBQ tick, water leaks, squeaking suspension, or any other problems. I do keep it clean, in a garage, and don't drive it in the snow and ice, it gets driven on a regular basis and no problems yet.
Good to hear.
 
#8 ·
I remember my 05 mustang gt and its issues. I had the passenger side leak but ford fixed it. The e brake locked up. Passenger seat belt wouldn't unlock so we had to cut it. But ford fixed those too.

I've had several stangs too and my favorite is my 14 mustang gt and close beside it was my 03 cobra. All cars will have issues. Even foreign cars. So far no issues with my 14 A6 and its 10x's better than my 05 and my 05 had cai, delete plates, udp's, full exhaust, stage 3 cams, 373's and some suspension mods and interior/exterior mods.
If you haven't driven one, just find one to test drive.
 
#9 ·
Wow, my car must be a rarity. Bought my 2011 new and in the first month supercharged it and voided the warranty. I drive it hard, not stupid hard but I don't baby it. I have never had any of the Mt 6 problems, nor any hood corroision, no BBQ tick, water leaks, squeaking suspension, or any other problems. I do keep it clean, in a garage, and don't drive it in the snow and ice, it gets driven on a regular basis and no problems yet.
 
#11 ·
Well, with financing rates at historic lows, it may be better to try and finance something a little newer. The quirks the 2011 had were cleared up by the end of 2012 but, like the 2005, it's a first year car.

I had an early build '12 which definitely had its quirks, highlighted by a manual trans that failed in 6500 miles. Ford fixed it but, it was a flawed car, needing shifter help, rear suspension help and a tune, because the stock tune was a soggy mess. I loved it but, that's the truth. A tune and a sticky tire put the car into the 11s at 115 though, fully loaded car.

I killed the car in an MVA in Sept. and now I have a very late build 14 auto and it is a very different car. The tune was way better out of the box, the suspension was better sorted (both Brembo cars), it's quieter and rides better and the auto trans is a wonder. I've since tuned that car, and it's fantastic.
 
#15 ·
What do you mean it needed rear suspension help?
So the factory tunes on 2011's suck is what your telling me? If I get a canned tune, would that put me at risk for cylinder 8 failure Jbert mentioned?
What's MVA? Accident?

Skim the threads on here for more info. The ones I know of:

- Manual transmission -- difficult shifting, grinding/clunking, whining
- Clutch sticks when shifting at high RPM / load
- Cylinder 8 failure -- usually caused by bad tunes but not always
- Front LCA clunking and cannot be replaced with aftermarket due to steering issue
- Hood corrosion

Not all cars have these, but in general I like to avoid a first year production car. No real solid reason for that, it's just a thing. 2012 can have issues to, like 5LHO said. Price for a 2012 shouldn't be much more than 2011.

If car is still under warranty, Ford should repair the hood corrosion . . . but some dealers are better about it than others. Probably helps if you have a good relationship with the dealer.
Not worried about the manual shifting and clutch sticking as I'm getting an auto. Around here, used 2011-2014 mustangs are rare and expensive. Even in LA. Not much option, even less when you factor in the options I want (leather, black exterior, etc). The only 2012s available are significantly more expensive. Doesn't the 2011+ come with lifetime corrosion warranty?

These points pretty much sum up the answer to your question. If I read correct you are out of a car currently? If that is correct and was in your possession I would find a cheap car to get me to the end of the year where Ford normally does 0% financing on left over cars and then I would pick up a 15-16 Mustang at 0% financing. Between now and then I would be saving up the money I would be paying on the 11 GT you are looking at and putting it into a savings account to use as a down payment. Then either trade, sell, or keep for a bad weather or DD beater the cheap car once you buy your nice NEW 5yr/60K mile under warranty NEW Mustang.

Just my thoughts and .02 for the day.
Can't afford the 2015s unless I get financing for more than 4 years which I'm not willing to do. I'm 21 and just starting to get established in my career.

Anyone considering financing a five year old used car may not be in a position where they can qualify for a new car loan or carry that large a note, even if they can. O% financing usually has shorter terms associated with it and thus the monthly bill can be quite high.

I had three options when I bought my old '12 new:

Dealer finance, with a discount but rates too high.

0% Ford but with a 3 year term, thus a monthly payment I wasn't comfortable with.

Ford financing for 5 at 2.99% that came with incentives that erased much of the cost of the note, given the large DP I was making.

I chose the latter.

On the '14 I have now, it was bought very lightly used and thus discounted a good amount for initial D. That meant arranging local bank finance, which wasn't as attractive %-wise but, given the lower entry price and consequent lower amount to finance, I came out with a payment less than my '12 per month, a two year newer car, and a loan that will add 2 years to my timeline to payoff the '12, had it survived. So, all in all, I feel ok.

Really just have to think what you can live with. I want to keep this car for good. I love it and it makes me very happy. I can fix it myself easily, regular maintenence parts are relatively cheap and I it's not a car I'm afraid to drive because it's too expensive or delicate. Plus I can bag on it at the dragstrip when I feel like it with the security of a solid axle, an auto and and a mighty engine.
I always want to keep my cars for good, but having never been the first owner of a stang with less than 70,000 miles they've all eventually crapped out on me. Most likely due to previous owners abuse and/or neglect. Hopefully on this one with just 40,000 miles, my maintenace habits will be able to get lots of life out of it. Plus American car companies really stepped up around 2011 to present. Mid to late 2000's had some serious quality control issues with American vehicles.
 
#14 ·
Anyone considering financing a five year old used car may not be in a position where they can qualify for a new car loan or carry that large a note, even if they can. O% financing usually has shorter terms associated with it and thus the monthly bill can be quite high.

I had three options when I bought my old '12 new:

Dealer finance, with a discount but rates too high.

0% Ford but with a 3 year term, thus a monthly payment I wasn't comfortable with.

Ford financing for 5 at 2.99% that came with incentives that erased much of the cost of the note, given the large DP I was making.

I chose the latter.

On the '14 I have now, it was bought very lightly used and thus discounted a good amount for initial D. That meant arranging local bank finance, which wasn't as attractive %-wise but, given the lower entry price and consequent lower amount to finance, I came out with a payment less than my '12 per month, a two year newer car, and a loan that will add 2 years to my timeline to payoff the '12, had it survived. So, all in all, I feel ok.

Really just have to think what you can live with. I want to keep this car for good. I love it and it makes me very happy. I can fix it myself easily, regular maintenence parts are relatively cheap and I it's not a car I'm afraid to drive because it's too expensive or delicate. Plus I can bag on it at the dragstrip when I feel like it with the security of a solid axle, an auto and and a mighty engine.
 
#17 ·
"Corrosion Warranty" is for rust-through; only covers if there are perforations (holes) . . . I'm pretty sure.

It does not cover the hood paint bubbling, because it does not create holes. I'm pretty sure that is only covered under the original bumper-to-bumper warranty . . . which is almost surely expired on any 2011 car (36 months????)
 
#19 ·
So I have more questions.
Is it true the 2011 GT tune from factory is weak? I want my baby to haul ass. If I get it tuned, will I run into cylinder 8 problems another poster mentioned?
Also, how would I know what gear ratio my prospective 2011 would have?
 
#22 ·
I have an early 2011 (rolled off line in Dec 2010 and delivered to me Jan) and didn't have any issues with the factory tune. I took a 2013 for a test drive and they felt the same, really. I think there are dyno numbers out there that can verify they put out about the same hp +/- normal variations.

As for the #8 cylinder issue, there are threads on that you can check but from what I have read on a multitude of threads (I did a lot of homework when researching tunes), I think the consensus was that many tuners got a little extreme when the 2011's first came out and some caused #8 failures. After the issue reared its head, I think the tuners dialed-down the tunes a bit and made them safer. I know BAMA's tunes had a #8 cylinder guarantee (not sure if still does but if so, their tunes are good, service is good, and you would have piece of mind).

The rear gears should have a tag on the differential indicating the ratio. If not, you can jack up the read and spin the tires and count revolutions of the drive shaft. Or, better yet, if you can get the VIN, you can input that on a website (just google ford VIN window sticker) and it should recreate the original window sticker for the car which will list all specs. I made stickers for all of our vehicles...nice to have.

As for problems, I would think that if the paint bubbling was an issue, it would be evident by now. If it's still good now, you should be good for the long haul. My Kona Blue paint still is perfect after 5 years. If it has the ignitor tick (mine is fine), you would notice it. If you had the cold-knock, you would hear it when you went for a test drive (just ensure the engine is cold (not warmed-up prior to you getting there) when you go for your test ride). I did have the control arm squeak...and still do...doesn't bother me. It only happens over large speed bumps and doesn't seem to compromise performance in any way. Overall, I've been very happy with mine and my car was a very early production. Hope this helps...good luck shopping!
 
#21 ·
1. That water leak is a simple fix
There is a video on Google to fix it or I believe their is a thread here that shows you how as well. It took my friend 45 minutes to fix his.
2. I switched my alternator with a ppac one. They are lifetime and are new not some rebuild.
These are simple fixes to our car.
Good luck
 
#23 ·
I recently purchased a 2011 convertible, very early production. No hood corrosion or engine noises. I purchased mine with 38,000 mi, only issues thus far, manual shifting issues (have aftermarket shift rear mount ready to install) and excessively soft suspension which will soon be addressed. Based on the extensive research I've been doing on these cars, most issues can be addressed with aftermarket parts.
Also, no problem free cars exist. I also drive a BMW, have had issues. Mustangs are much less complex and problematic.
Based on my understanding, the Coyote engine was meant to go in the 2010 model Mustang, Ford held back installation to 2011 to work out bugs. I purchased the first year model based on this understanding.
 
#26 ·
Just wanted to throw my experience in there:

I have a very early 2011 GT (6/10 build date) with almost 70,000 miles on it. Ive put 2,000 miles on it since i bought it and have zero issues with it. No rattles, leaks, wind noise, transmission issues, hood issues, #8 cylinder issues, it runs STRONG, and i just wanted to ease your fears of buying an early build 2011. Just like any cars, there are factory lemons, odd mechanical failures, and just good cars. Drive it and see how you like it, check it out well. If all checks out, i guarantee you will be smiling when you drive it!
 
#27 ·
Just bought it!! She runs STRONG :grin:

I enjoy reading about others' experiences with their cars. My '98 GT had the auto trans rebuilt while under warranty - completely trouble free otherwise. Fell asleep and drove it into a power pole at 101k miles. Purchased my current '05 shortly afterwards - stayed covered in the original owner's garage due to the battery frequently discharging for no apparent reason and Ford's failure to correct the problem - car had about 6k miles at time of purchase (looked and smelled new!).

The price was right and I love sleuthing on mechanical devices. Ruled out the radio power down issue. Changed out the too small battery (IMO) for the largest one Motorcraft spec'd for this car (four sizes total for the '05). Was careful to disconnect and reconnect the battery cables in the correct order; ran parasitic draw test (30mA) and haven't experienced a 'no start' since.

Other issues have been the speedo failure (remanufactured for $175/lifetime warranty), door panel leatherette delamination (both door panels recovered for $225/ lifetime warranty), fuel fill problem (corrected itself) and very recently the rear defroster stopped working (swapped around relays in the underhood fuse/relay box).

Car sits outside in the weather as I have no garage or carport (I live in a MH community). Car currently has less than 22k miles and had ALL of the fluids changed out last year, most for the first time ever. The car is a very handsome design and a true pleasure to own and drive - receiving compliments everywhere.

Wishing you the best in your search for the car that is right for you.
Yup my 05 was pretty handsome. I also had the leatherette peel, and the fill up problem ( never resolved, had to invert the nozzle every-time).
So far, I am VERY happy with my new purchase :grin::grin:

The 05 3v 4.6 was fast. But the 5.0 is a FERAL BEAST. Hope this girl last me while (at least as long as my finance term!)
 

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#33 ·
Inspect the hood seem carefully. I purchased my 2013 with 42,900 back in January, and it did have corrosion. Above the driver's side headlight (I only noticed it because it had crept topside), and several areas at both sides beneath the hood. The car had it when I bought it. Initially, I thought it was a bad touch-up job, but nope: corrosion. I went back to the dealership and they ate the cost of the strip/treat/repaint. How long it will last is anyone's guess, but I'm hopeful. Regardless, I'm setting aside money for a fiberglass hood - should that become necessary. I'll tell you though, I've had the car two months and absolutely love it! And mine is "only" a V6. I'm jealous of GT's V8 sound, but completely content with my 305 ponies. :smile:
 
#36 ·
There ain't no such thing as "pre-detonation". At no time is detonation helpful, pre or otherwise. You mean pre-ignition, which is an uncontrolled combustion event out of time with the expected one, causing conflicting wave fronts in that cylinder. It doesn't have to do with necessarily a cylinder running hot, though it can. #8 does run a little hotter in this motor yes, due to airflow and a little leaner mix there and cooling system design but, tuners figured this out before we sang Auld Lang Syne on 2011.

Three seasons of DR on my 2012 and at the end, all 8 cylinders showed the maximum allowable compression, to the pound so, it ain't an issue
 
#37 ·
Congratulations on the new car. I've had paint issues on my 14 GT. Ford fixed the ones on the underside of my trunk lid but won't fix the ones on the underside of the hood. I bought my car new and have only had some minor issues but I think I have the water getting trapped in the rear quarter panel problem now. My car sat in my garage for about 2 months without being driven and when I put the front up on ramps to change the oil, I had water draining out right before the passenger side rear tire.

Before I put the car up for the 2 months, I had taken it on vacation and got caught in a few thunder storms so I'm sure the water was from that.

Wayne
 
#41 ·
I have a very early build (3/10) 2011 GT/CS convertible that we bought in the summer of 2014 with 61,700 miles on the clock.

I have all the service records as the dealer from whom I bought it, sold it as new serviced it from the very beginning.

At 11K miles the differential ring gear and pinion was replaced (known issue with TSB)
At 25K miles the steering gear was replaced
Stereo speakers replaced at 20K and 30K miles (assuming not all at once, most likely individual ones).
62K miles the lower control arms were replaced due to squeaking when turning the wheels (known issue with TSB)
62K miles passenger seat track replaced as it was binding
65K miles blend door actuator replaced
66K miles replaced the instrument cluster due to the Oil Last Life monitor stopped working along with fixing a transmission oil leak that was caused by a bad seal around a sleeve for a sensor (both are know issues with TSBs)

The engines itself has been solid.
 
#42 ·
That sounds truly awful.
I've been lucky up until now - the only complaints I've had was the rear-view mirror making a rattle noise, and some rattle noise which is probably a clip somewhere by the rear passenger side window/seat/carpeted part above the seat.
A couple weeks ago, the ac door blend actuator went out for controlling the defrost and center air flow. Fine whatever, not a big deal right? It went out on my 05, and it's just a $30 part that I can access myself through the glove-box. The AC still worked and would still switch, just had to deal with the tapping sound for 10 seconds.
However, early today my AC suddenly completely stopped blowing cold air. Really hoping it's not my AC compressor, I can't afford a $1500 repair and it's currently 90 degrees in LA.
 
#43 ·
Yet another 2011 GT with AC going out.

Hey Guys,

Got my 2011 GT at 44,500 miles around a month ago. The only cars I've ever owned have been black mustang GTs. I almost went the camaro route as my 05 GT was a problem child and left a bad taste in my mouth about Ford. Never the less I've dreamed about the 5.0 since it came out, and after test driving I fell in love and bought it.

I've been lucky up until now - the only complaints I've had was the rear-view mirror making a rattle noise, and some rattle noise which is probably a clip somewhere by the rear passenger side window/seat/carpeted part above the seat.

A couple weeks ago, the ac door blend actuator went out for switching from the windshield defrost to center air flow. Fine whatever, not a big deal right? It went out on my 05, and it's just a $30 part that I can access myself through the glove-box. The AC still worked and would still switch, just had to deal with the tapping sound for 10 seconds.
However, early today my AC suddenly completely stopped blowing cold air. Really hoping it's not my AC compressor, I can't afford a $1500 repair and it's currently 90 degrees in LA.
Could the AC blend door actuator be related to the AC going out? What's everything I can check at home before having to take it to a mechanic?

THIS CAR ONLY HAS 45,500 MILES! IT SHOULD NOT BE DOING THIS.
My 03's AC lasted until 140,000 miles.
 
#44 ·
Did some digging - sounds like the 2011 compressors are as ****** as the 05s alternators and the 05's ability to keep water out of the cabin!
Air Conditioning went out... - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums

And they all conveniently go out around 35xxx to 45xxx miles. I'm at 45,500. Still holding out hope it's something simple and not the compressor.
 
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