Please Help, coolant change disaster - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019 Thread Starter
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Please Help, coolant change disaster

Hello all and Happy New Year,

I am writing here today because I am desperate. What should have been a simple coolant change end up being a disaster. Let me start from the beginning.

After Christmas I decided to play with the car (2013 V6) and change the coolant. I did watch few videos read a little about it as well- easy right?. I drained the old coolant and refiled with distilled water. Drained it again. I noticed that only about 2 gallons of water came out. I read somewhere that you can start the car and rest of the fluid will drain. I did that. After about 20 seconds the car started dying. I quickly turned it off. Added more distilled water to do another flush, tried to start the car but it doesn’t start anymore.

When I turn the ignition on the car cranks and it cranks even I when I move the key back (stops when I move the key to the off position) see the video:

https://sendvid.com/3h2my86q


I have been losing sleep over that for over 4 days now. I tried disconnecting the battery to clear EPC. I drained the water and purchased the pressurized cooling system refiller, the system holds pressure and I refilled it with new coolant, I have noticed that it only took about 1.5 gallon of new coolant ?

I checked the fuses, I put the car on the stock tune, I have not seen any codes etc.

I am totally lost I have no idea what happened. Please help.

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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019
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I see that you have to manually rotate the key from start to run when it should rotate to run when you let loose of the key. How long has it been like that? Its possible the ignition switch it bad.

Edit: Disregard. I looked at the video again. It rotates back on its
own.

Do you hear the electric fuel pump when you turn the ignition to run? Sometimes you hear a faint whir and sometimes a faint thud as it turns on. See if you hear this before turning the key to start mode.

Back to the ignition switch, it should stop power to the starter which it doesn't causing you to manually turn ignition off. So, it very well could be the ignition switch is bad.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020 Thread Starter
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Than you for your time and response.


I started looking into the fuel pump. After removing the back seat and the rubber grommet with ignition in On position I could hear a tiny busing noise coming from it (I could, my wife couldn’t).


I have ordered a pressure test gauge and should be here on Saturday. But in meantime I have disconnected fuel pump control module from the trunk (according to service manual) and then I disconnected the fuel line going to fuel rail. Only very small amount of gas came out from it.
Then I connected everything back together and cycled the ignition key multiple times. Went back and unplugged the fuel line again and no gas came out, not even a drop. Shouldn’t that line be under high pressure? and after cycling the ignition the fuel should be pouring from it?

Please see the video: (sorry not sure why its upside down):
https://sendvid.com/nvpmdkbb

What do you think?
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020
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I still think there is something amiss with the ignition switch. In your first video why is the starter still engaged when the key is rotated from start to run.

In regard to the fuel system pressurization; yes it should be pressurized - - - if the pump is receiving power if the ignition switch is working correctly. I do not have a schematic handy but I would check for power to the pump with the key set to the run position as part of your troubleshooting.

And im curious what the red light is shining on your shoe in the first video.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020
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. . . and I am wondering why this started happening all of a sudden when the OP ran the car without a full charge of water. Did that cause the issue somehow; or is it just a coincidence? I don't know but I'm trying to think of the connection . . . best guess I can come up with is some kind of fail-safe system that shut the engine down when it sensed it was getting too hot, due to the lack of water. But that should reset itself when the danger condition is cleared.

Don't the later models have the starter system where the starter cranks for some defined period of time (10 seconds?), even if you let go of the key; until the engine starts or it times out? That would explain why the engine keeps cranking when he lets go of the key.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020 Thread Starter
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Thank you guys,


I will double check the power to the pump and now I wonder myself what that red light is. I will report later
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBert View Post
....Don't the later models have the starter system where the starter cranks for some defined period of time (10 seconds?), even if you let go of the key; until the engine starts or it times out? That would explain why the engine keeps cranking when he lets go of the key.
Yep, that's what my 2014 does.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020
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Timed - - - Got it, thanks. My 2012 is not timed.

However, Im still curious if the ignition switch on the 2014 requires you to manually rotate it back to Run after placing it to the Start position as shown in the video, Or does it spring back to Run after the 10 or 15 seconds.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
Timed - - - Got it, thanks. My 2012 is not timed.

However, Im still curious if the ignition switch on the 2014 requires you to manually rotate it back to Run after placing it to the Start position as shown in the video, Or does it spring back to Run after the 10 or 15 seconds.
The videos aren't working for me but it should spring back on it's own
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020 Thread Starter
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Yes it does spring back I just didnt wanted to keep cranking the engine for so long. I checked and I do get power to the fuel pump and the red light its just a reflection of the interior light.


tomorrow I am getting the fuel gauge so hoping that the fuel pump is bad and I can just replace it and end this nightmare.



another question is when I pressured filled the car with fresh coolant it only took about 1.5 gallon, I purchased 4gallons because that's what service manual stays. I am missing something?
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^ I am not sure how much it should take, but I know there can be problems with air bubbles that need to be purged to completely fill the system; not sure if the "pressure fill" that you mention would do that or not. There are some threads on here with the details, I think it involves positioning the car on a steep slope to get the air out.

I wonder if there might be some fail-safe sensor that is preventing the car from starting because it is not sensing water in the system? That is just a SWAG; I am still wondering if this is a coincidence or was caused by running the car without full system.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by drukkosz View Post
I drained the old coolant and refiled with distilled water. Drained it again. I noticed that only about 2 gallons of water came out. I read somewhere that you can start the car and rest of the fluid will drain.

You should never start a car to drain out the coolant, you should have removed the lower radiator hose to drain as much as you can from the engine. If you didn't do that and only drained the radiator then yes 2 gallons would be about right. The system holds 12.5 quarts or 3.125 gallons of coolant all together


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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
Timed - - - Got it, thanks. My 2012 is not timed.

However, Im still curious if the ignition switch on the 2014 requires you to manually rotate it back to Run after placing it to the Start position as shown in the video, Or does it spring back to Run after the 10 or 15 seconds.
The key will spring back to the run position immediately upon releasing it, but the starter will remain engaged until the engine starts or you reach some kind of time out. It seems to work like a push button start, except with a key.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020 Thread Starter
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Finally received my fuel gauge today. Connected it and cycled the ignition key few times and leave it in On position. reading is 0.

Is it safe to say that fuel pump is dead?


thank you again for your time and help
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Check one more item. Check the fuel pump inertia switch. Be sure it isn't tripped.

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