Need some help! Amp wiring. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012 Thread Starter
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Need some help! Amp wiring.

Alright I'm putting in some audio upgrades and need an auto on wire tap for an amp. I got an add a circuit from autozone and dove into the fuse box on the passenger footwell. Every thing I've tapped into seems to have power all the time. I've tapped the radio,sync,windows, and so much more I can't even remember. I'm running out of ideas here guys. What did you guys do?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012
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I hardwired a couple accessories in (radar detector and dash cam) I found there was only about 5 fuses in the interior fuse box(passenger foot well) that cycles with the ignition. I ended up using a add a circuit on fuse #33 (which is listed as a spare on my car) and my stuff comes on and off with the car.

As well If i remeber correctly the fuses directly above and below 33 are also switched but have something already assigned to them so the spare is obviously the best choice.

Depending on year your results might vary so identify it with a meter first to double check.

As well to help others out here is a listing out of the service manual of what each fuse does.


1 30A Driver rear window (convertible only)
2 15A Not used (spare)
3 15A SYNC
4 30A Passenger rear window (convertible only)
5 10A Brake transmission shift interlock (BTSI)
6 20A Turn signals, Hazard flashers
7 10A Left low beam headlamp
8 10A Right low beam headlamp
9 15A Courtesy lamps
10 15A Switch illumination
11 10A Security module
12 7.5A Power mirrors
13 5A Not used (spare)
14 10A Center information display, Electronic finish panel, GPS
15 10A Climate control
16 15A Not used (spare)
17 20A Power door locks, Trunk release
18 20A Not used (spare)
19 25A Navigation amp
20 15A Diagnostic connector
21 15A Fog lamps
22 15A Park lamps, License lamps
23 15A High beam headlamps
24 20A Horn
25 10A Demand lighting (battery saver)
26 10A Cluster (battery)
27 20A Ignition switch feed
28 5A Audio mute (start)
29 5A Camera (run/start)
30 5A Temperature sensor motor
31 10A Restraints control module (RCM)
32 10A Not used (spare)
33 10A Not used (spare)
34 5A Electronic stabilitycontrol
35 10A Auxiliary body module (ABM) run/start
36 5A Passive anti-theftsystem (PATS)
37 10A Not used (spare)
38 20A Not used (spare)
39 20A Radio/Navigation
40 20A Not used (spare)
41 15A Accessory delay (windows, automatic dimming rear view mirror [including microphone and compass] and door switch III)
42 10A Not used (spare)
43 10A Heated seat relay coils
44 10A Not used (spare)
45 5A Wiper relay and module, Blower relay
46 7.5A Passengerairbag deactivation indicator (PADI), Occupant
classification sensor (OCS)
47 30A Circuit Breaker Not used (spare)
48 Relay Accessory delay relay (windows, automatic dimming rear view mirror [including microphone and compass] and door switch III)


My garage:
12 V6 pony package
98 Eclipse GST
94 Celica Gt-4 (st205)
91 Celica Gt-4 (st185)
91 MR-2 G-Limited
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012
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just because im feeling extra helpful today i snapped a pic for you. and like i said the fuse below and the 4 fuses above the tap if i recall correctly are the only switched fuses in the interior fuse box


My garage:
12 V6 pony package
98 Eclipse GST
94 Celica Gt-4 (st205)
91 Celica Gt-4 (st185)
91 MR-2 G-Limited
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012 Thread Starter
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I appreciate the pictures and info! I believe I tried that fuse and it powered on without the keys in. I'm going to go try again.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012 Thread Starter
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It worked! I can't thank you enough!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012
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I used fuse 41 for the accessory delay. It will stay on after the key is removed (for up to 15 min i think) but turn off as soon as you open the door. This way it's on whenever the radio is on. At first i tapped the fuse for Auxiliary Body Module which works, but i think only when the key is turned to run.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012
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Bringing this one back from the dead. I used this to wire up my powered sub in the trunk. I used a fuse tap on 41, put a 30A fuse in it, and I'm good to go!

Thanks for posting this - it made things much easier!

2014 GT Coupe, 3.73 gears, Security Pkg
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013
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I see you say you used 30 amp fuse on add a circuit. I read somewhere that the max is 10 amp. what size fuse should I use for my single din aftermarket deck and how about if I'm doing the same thing with another add a fuse for the 12v switched power to a 400 watt aftermarket amp in the trunk? THX
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013
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When I did my install I didnt tap into any fuses. My aftermarket wire harness had a match for all the wires to hook up my single DIN deck. Then for my amp my HU had a blue remote turn on wire for an amplifier. I used that blue turn on lead and y-split it to turn on 2 amps.

It was just power and ground from there.

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2011 Kona Blue MT82 V6 Mustang Pony Package 3:31 Gear Ratio, Interior Upgrade Pkg, Security & Shaker500/Sync
Mods (in order of installed): AM Bama SCT SF3 Tuner w/ 87 Hybrid Tune, Airaid CAI, Hurst Billet Plus 2 Short Throw Shifter, Lethal O/R H Pipe w/ Stock Exhaust, Blacked-Out Tints on Rear Windows, Full Ceramic Tint on Front Windows, Metra Touchscreen Dash Adaptor, Single DIN Head Unit, 6.5'' Component Speakers Fronts, Stock Rear Speakers, 10'' Sealed Subwoofer, 4ch. and 1ch Amplifier. LED licence plate lights, LED interior dome lights, FRPP/Dynamic shocks and struts, SR Performance lowering springs, GT500 Strut Mounts, BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar, BMR LCA's, BMR Relocation Brackets. Rear Seat Delete.
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I actually piggy backed off that violet wire in the SJB it is only powered on when the engine is running. This way my car has all the juice it needs for starting, then the amp kicks on only after the car is started. It then powers off like normal when the engine is off only.
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I tried tapping into fuse 41 because I liked the idea of my amp staying on with my radio until I open the door. However, while driving I noticed that my windows weren't working. I removed the tap and the windows started working again. Any idea why I lost power to the windows?
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If you are using an add-a-fuse, did you have both fuses in? One is for the original circuit.
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The fuse that I removed from 41, I inserted into the add-a-fuse. Initially I forgot this step and the amp wasn't turning on.
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