Resonator installation - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013 Thread Starter
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This was just eyeballing the fit, but the bend in pipe after connection at x pipe starts about 8" from connection. The length of pipe from x pipe to axle is about 30". The "flattened" part of pipe on drivers side is 24", so that gives me enough to fit the ends and clamp on the round pipe. (should be similar on passenger side without flat pipe. Now the one thing you say is clearance. Is it at the plastic "shield" for the gas tank? (are there two tanks, one on each side?) Anyway the Dynomax thrush are pretty skinny compared to many other resonators. I now see what you mean. These should clear, but can't tell till I cut and clamp. Then it'll be too late, so this is the big question. Why is it a plastic shield? I guess if it touches, it melts. Not a good thing. Oh well, back under the car with a tape measure....

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Guess I'm back to keeping stock mufflers and installing headers at some point. Don't think I want the long tubes though. Probably will get shorties by BBK, then later on get the catted x-pipe.

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I Just threw a set of Pypes bombs on mine needs some 12" vibrants bad under there to help with the highway noise and shape the sound a little. They are usually all stainless and unlike glass packs will not need to be replaced after a season or two. (how is 25" going to fit under there if the housing is 4"????)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3.7LCyclone View Post
I Just threw a set of Pypes bombs on mine needs some 12" vibrants bad under there to help with the highway noise and shape the sound a little. They are usually all stainless and unlike glass packs will not need to be replaced after a season or two. (how is 25" going to fit under there if the housing is 4"????)
BTW most resonators if they are listed as "slip fit" are usually the OD size this way you just cut where you need the resonators to go (leaving meat obviously for inlets and outlets so there is something to grab on to) then slip them over the pipes and "weld" them. If you plan on clamping (which I never do but you can) you need a resonator that has an OD/ID configuration so you can run the exhaust into the inlet of the resonator and slip the resonator into the rear pipes then clamp. Otherwise you are talking same diameter pipes and using band clamps.

Welding is the way to go with all stainless steel (304) resonators as they last a long time.

I usually will clamp a muffler, or glass pack but I always weld cats and resonators.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2013 Thread Starter
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Just to sum everything up. I clamped a vibrant 2.25" 12" stainless steel resonator from the stock H pipe to where the pipe is flattened (by the factory). Why it's like that who knows... The passenger side I used a 18" vibrant because I had more room. I only cut once on each pipe with a pipe cutter. Everything now clamped securely no vibration, most of drone gone. I clamped because I might someday re-fit the cut parts back in. All I'll need are those stainless steel band clamps. This whole ordeal was brought on because I bought Bassani axle backs. Maybe if I bought the Borla S or touring... Wife doesn't complain of the drone now. Paid about $120 total, several hours work in garage. Nice sound now. One day might get headers, so sound will change again, but that's in the future.

Last edited by mlud00; 11-09-2013 at 11:19 AM. Reason: additional words
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Thanks for the update. Even if you did headers later on, you would still want some resonators if you think it's loud/raspy before you installed them.

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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2013 Thread Starter
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Exactly what I was thinking. Great minds think alike.... Next project, fog lamps for lower fascia.
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