Steeda Ultra Lites Springs on 2011-2014 V6 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013 Thread Starter
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Steeda Ultra Lites Springs on 2011-2014 V6

Does anyone in here have steeda ultra lites springs installed on his/her v6 mustang?

Im trying to decide which springs I would like to get..I just want to make sure the ride will not be too stiff, however do have a nice drop..

Im deciding between the Eibach Pro-kit (drops 0.8" in front 1.2" in rear) or Steeda Ultra Lites (drops 1.25" front and 1.5" in back) however after talking to Steeda, they told me that they arent happy with the front drop on a V6.. due to a lighter motor.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


2013 Mustang V6 - 19" Am GT500 Wheels, Roush Upper/Lower Grill, RTR Spoiler, GT500 Flat Black Racing Stripes, Magnaflow Competition Axle-back, fully customized audio system
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013
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Hey, The steedas are good high quality springs, but I found them to be a bit aggressive (firm) for just regular daily driving. Paired with the stock shocks I found the ride just a smidge too firm.

The drop on the Steeda UL was pretty decent, got rid of the worst of the wheel gap and gave it a balanced handling character, but I trimmed a few cm off the front bottom of the coil to get the rake back after driving on them for more than a year. This restored the rake, made it a bit less oversteer prone (i have swaybars and have dialed in LOTS of oversteer) and lost more wheelgap up front, but I still felt they were a bit too hard for daily duty.

When I put in adjustable shocks I was able to balance the ride quality a bit better, but still wound up changing to the SR performance springs from AM - progressive springs pretty much always give better ride imho. If you're keeping the stock shocks, i'd reccomend the SR performance ones, get them when they're on sale at AM and they're really quite bargain priced, and everyone who rides in my car prefers the ride with these.


No longer own:
'12 V6 Perf, from Sept '11.
Mods: TWM 520g Piston shift knob & Barton shift bracket, AM short shifter. SR 1.5"drop & AM street phb. Tokico D-spec, Whiteline bars F&R, J&M Lca, 25mm wheel spacers, 18x10x4 Bullit style on Sumimoto rubber. Magnaflow Street's. 25' of b-quiet ultimate, 10" JL [email protected] 350w, JL TR's upfront. Bama Tune, B&M 73mm & Shorty headers.
Someday..... Twin Turbo, or SC goal is 450 whp. Has to wait until warranty is up
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013
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I too run the SR springs and am very happy with them. I am running them with stock shocks/struts, as I installed them with fewer than 8K miles on my car. The ride is excellent, maybe a touch firmer than stock, but it's certainly not harsh. Body motion is much better controlled than with the stock springs - much less nose dive upon hard braking, much less front end lift upon hard acceleration. Drop was pretty consistent with what they advertise - roughly 1.5" f/r.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013
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I too run the SR springs and am very happy with them. I am running them with stock shocks/struts, as I installed them with fewer than 8K miles on my car. The ride is excellent, maybe a touch firmer than stock, but it's certainly not harsh. Body motion is much better controlled than with the stock springs - much less nose dive upon hard braking, much less front end lift upon hard acceleration. Drop was pretty consistent with what they advertise - roughly 1.5" f/r.
HowellDoug:
I'm interested in the SR springs, but read this on AM concering fitment for my '13 V6:

"Application. This set of four SR Performance Lowering Springs are designed for use on the 2005 to 2010 GT & V6 Mustangs Coupes. They will also fit 2011 and newer GT & V6 Coupes when used in combination with Ford Racing M-18183-C upper strut mounts and M-18000-A dampers (sold separately). Does not fit convertible models."

Did you need to purchase and install the strut mounts and damper on your new car? I've asked several times on different threads, but can't seem to get an answer to this.
Thanks in advance.

2013 V6 Auto Premium | Sterling Gray | Pony/Comfort/Security Packages
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013
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My mechanic, who works on my NSX, Supra, M3 and Mustang, tells me that no one who has Eibach springs on their car that he knows of, is happy with them. Way too stiff.

He works on many Ferrari's, Lamborghini's and Porsche's, and seems to know what he's talking about.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roderick112 View Post
Does anyone in here have steeda ultra lites springs installed on his/her v6 mustang?

Im trying to decide which springs I would like to get..I just want to make sure the ride will not be too stiff, however do have a nice drop..

Im deciding between the Eibach Pro-kit (drops 0.8" in front 1.2" in rear) or Steeda Ultra Lites (drops 1.25" front and 1.5" in back) however after talking to Steeda, they told me that they arent happy with the front drop on a V6.. due to a lighter motor.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
I run the Steeda's and I love the ride and handling. My whole suspension is Steeda (& more to come) so it's hard to say how the springs would be by themselves but Steeda does a lot of track testing and such so I'm sure they would be fine! They required no modification to any of my suspension components and they are said to be lighter then their other springs and the competitions. I like the drop and others love the stance as well..especially when paired up with some 19's. I get a lot of compliments saying it's the perfect height..which if your looking for appearance and function it probabley is. I would deff go with these springs if your comparing them to eibach..which I happen to be a big fan of as well. To make my decision I looked at quality, function and background on the company..they are know to actually test the vehicle with the actual exact part..not just make a "universal" type spring. I would though suggest doing some shocks/struts at the same time to get maximum performance out of your purchase! They now have race type spring which is a more aggressive drop if that's what your looking for. Good luck

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driven SVT View Post
The drop on the Steeda UL was pretty decent, got rid of the worst of the wheel gap and gave it a balanced handling character, but I trimmed a few cm off the front bottom of the coil to get the rake back after driving on them for more than a year. This restored the rake, made it a bit less oversteer prone (i have swaybars and have dialed in LOTS of oversteer) and lost more wheelgap up front, but I still felt they were a bit too hard for daily duty.
Can you give details on exactly what you did to accomplish the rake with the ULs?


OP - I have the Steeda ULs paired with Koni Yellows, They are stiffer than stock but I would expect that. The reason that Steeda is not happy with them or their sports on the V6 late models is the rake is non existent. This is the best side pic I have of my car on hand to show you.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-22-2013
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LandToSea:

I used the simple expedience of using a cut off wheel to trim 13 CM off the bottom end of the coils. I did some measurements with the wheel free from any springs, and confirmed to my satisfaction that there was plenty more drop available before things started bashing into one another. If I were to do it over, I would probably only cut 7 cm off, so it would fit more cleanly on the lower spring perch, but only do this after they are well and truly broken in. Wouldn't want them to settle unevenly. I will say that a lot of people would be shocked and upset at the notion of cutting springs, but done very conservatively its not a huge deal. There was no noticeable change in ride quality, and the change in handling was predictable as a result of changing the rake of the car.

No longer own:
'12 V6 Perf, from Sept '11.
Mods: TWM 520g Piston shift knob & Barton shift bracket, AM short shifter. SR 1.5"drop & AM street phb. Tokico D-spec, Whiteline bars F&R, J&M Lca, 25mm wheel spacers, 18x10x4 Bullit style on Sumimoto rubber. Magnaflow Street's. 25' of b-quiet ultimate, 10" JL [email protected] 350w, JL TR's upfront. Bama Tune, B&M 73mm & Shorty headers.
Someday..... Twin Turbo, or SC goal is 450 whp. Has to wait until warranty is up
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-22-2013
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Also, love the look of your car Landtosea!

No longer own:
'12 V6 Perf, from Sept '11.
Mods: TWM 520g Piston shift knob & Barton shift bracket, AM short shifter. SR 1.5"drop & AM street phb. Tokico D-spec, Whiteline bars F&R, J&M Lca, 25mm wheel spacers, 18x10x4 Bullit style on Sumimoto rubber. Magnaflow Street's. 25' of b-quiet ultimate, 10" JL [email protected] 350w, JL TR's upfront. Bama Tune, B&M 73mm & Shorty headers.
Someday..... Twin Turbo, or SC goal is 450 whp. Has to wait until warranty is up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driven SVT View Post
LandToSea:

I used the simple expedience of using a cut off wheel to trim 13 CM off the bottom end of the coils. I did some measurements with the wheel free from any springs, and confirmed to my satisfaction that there was plenty more drop available before things started bashing into one another. If I were to do it over, I would probably only cut 7 cm off, so it would fit more cleanly on the lower spring perch, but only do this after they are well and truly broken in. Wouldn't want them to settle unevenly. I will say that a lot of people would be shocked and upset at the notion of cutting springs, but done very conservatively its not a huge deal. There was no noticeable change in ride quality, and the change in handling was predictable as a result of changing the rake of the car.
Don't you mean mm instead of cm?

7mm is about 5/16 inch. 7cm is about 2-3/4 inches.

I have a hard time believing you cut almost 3 inches off a spring without major fitment issues.



That being said, I would like my car to be lower in the back so that the car sits almost level. I currently have DUB springs (Eibach Pro?). I was told that cutting the springs was a "bad idea (TM)".

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Quote:
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Don't you mean mm instead of cm?

7mm is about 5/16 inch. 7cm is about 2-3/4 inches.

I have a hard time believing you cut almost 3 inches off a spring without major fitment issues.



That being said, I would like my car to be lower in the back so that the car sits almost level. I currently have DUB springs (Eibach Pro?). I was told that cutting the springs was a "bad idea (TM)".
3 linear inches out of a spring is only going to drop it less than an inch...
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Quote:
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3 linear inches out of a spring is only going to drop it less than an inch...
O, I see. I thought you were talking about height.

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Quote:
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Also, love the look of your car Landtosea!
Thank you!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driven SVT View Post
LandToSea:

I used the simple expedience of using a cut off wheel to trim 13 CM off the bottom end of the coils. I did some measurements with the wheel free from any springs, and confirmed to my satisfaction that there was plenty more drop available before things started bashing into one another. If I were to do it over, I would probably only cut 7 cm off, so it would fit more cleanly on the lower spring perch, but only do this after they are well and truly broken in. Wouldn't want them to settle unevenly. I will say that a lot of people would be shocked and upset at the notion of cutting springs, but done very conservatively its not a huge deal. There was no noticeable change in ride quality, and the change in handling was predictable as a result of changing the rake of the car.
I've done this on a few classic cars, cut the springs for a drop in ride height.

I had a 71 Ranchero GT I wanted lowered, bought some 1.5" lowering springs for a 71-73 Mustang (per an old Ford interchange book I had) and they were WAY too soft. In short I actually cut the stock GT springs which were much stiffer to give me my drop.

Like you said though need to let the settle, I actually cut those springs down twice, first time only came out about 3/4" lower then settled to 1" after about a month of driving. After another month no change I cut them again and all said and done ended up with a 1.75" drop over stock.

I wouldn't do that with today's cars, but certainly do not see the any harm in trimming an aftermarket set down to fine tune your preferred ride height.

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old, just clarifying if someone comes across this doing research:

I had cut 13 CM (not mm) of length off the end of the coil. It took a bit of care to have it sit on the perch when reassembling the shocks & springs, but I just had a buddy help me keep it lined up.

After I had decided to change to different springs, I actually experimented with the back, and I trimmed a few CM off the back springs too. It took a lot more trial and error to get the height 'just so' but the ride was fine and the springs stayed where they are supposed to without weirdness. It did however ride on the factory height bump-stops really quickly so those needed to be trimmed down, which I should have done anyway with the lowering springs. if you consider doing this make sure you cut off from the TOP of the spring, the bottom doesn't have enough coil to grip the seat properly otherwise.


No longer own:
'12 V6 Perf, from Sept '11.
Mods: TWM 520g Piston shift knob & Barton shift bracket, AM short shifter. SR 1.5"drop & AM street phb. Tokico D-spec, Whiteline bars F&R, J&M Lca, 25mm wheel spacers, 18x10x4 Bullit style on Sumimoto rubber. Magnaflow Street's. 25' of b-quiet ultimate, 10" JL [email protected] 350w, JL TR's upfront. Bama Tune, B&M 73mm & Shorty headers.
Someday..... Twin Turbo, or SC goal is 450 whp. Has to wait until warranty is up
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