Thinking of lowering car but have a few questions. - Ford Mustang Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Mpaac's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 165
 
Thinking of lowering car but have a few questions.

Hey guys I currently have a 2012 v6 mustang MCA edition, I like the wheels my car came with but I'm not happy with the wheel gap as I'm sure a lot of people don't like to. I was researching different brands of lowering springs on American muscle and can't really decide on which one. Another thing is do I need to purchase anything else along with the springs? People in the comments have written to buy new camber plates or atleast bolts. Are these things necessary to buy? Or could I just buy springs alone, the ad is my DD and only sees 1/4 miles a few times a year and all suspension parts are stock and car only has about 17k miles so I'm assuming all should be good. Hopefully I can get some clarification on if these extra parts are needed or not.
Thanks


2012 MCA 6 speed auto.
Mods: JLT CAI,3.73s,BBK TB,lethal x pipe,93 tune
Mpaac is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Mpaac's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 165
 
I should also add I don't ever plan on taking this car and doing any auto x of anything like that's this is strictly for appearance, but I don't want to be cheap and skip out on the plates if I actually do need them


2012 MCA 6 speed auto.
Mods: JLT CAI,3.73s,BBK TB,lethal x pipe,93 tune
Mpaac is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013
Apprentice
 
metaman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
 
I have the FRPP N springs combined with the 2011 GT500 strut mounts and the FRPP dampners. I have been very satisfied with the comfortable, stable, firm ride and handling from this combo. The only thing it feels like it needs now are some poly sway bar bushings. Just have not done it yet. I have not rode in any of these cars with alternative spring / strut combos. For all I know there is another that is better. However, this one seems just right to me. Also the progressive nature of the struts is very nice. When grannying the car around and through turns it is nice and plush. Throw the car into a turn and it goes ultra firm immediately.

I did not do the plates. The drop was only 1.5". If you want it to be right then do not match up higher rate springs with stock dampeners. Spend the extra and get package that works together.

Here is the drop, these wheels and tires are about the same diameter as stock.


2013 Grabber Blue Premium Couple, Auto, FRPP N Springs, FRPP Dampeners, Lund Tune
metaman is offline  
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013
Apprentice
 
PPinTX's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Location: Pflugerville
Posts: 119
 
You will need an adjustable panhard bar for the rear axle. This bar attaches on the frame on one side and extends across to the other side of the car where it attaches to the axle. The purpose of this is to keep the entire rear end from moving side to side while allowing the axle to move up and down through it's suspension travel. The panhard bar's end link attaching to the axle moves in an arc. Thus, the entire axle moves in a lateral arc as the suspension compresses. The same effect occurs when you lower the rear end as you are effectively squatting the suspension and that shifts the axle off-center. An adjustable bar allows you to recenter the axle after lowering.

2013 V6 Base Coupe - Performance and Tech Packages - Ingot Silver

Bama Tuned with Airaid CAI - GT front brake upgrade - More to come.
PPinTX is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Mpaac's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 165
 
Did you need to re align your wheels after the drop? Also people said that your tires will wear faster which I'm not sure how that makes sense but just trying to see what I need and don't need.

2012 MCA 6 speed auto.
Mods: JLT CAI,3.73s,BBK TB,lethal x pipe,93 tune
Mpaac is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013
Apprentice
 
PPinTX's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Location: Pflugerville
Posts: 119
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpaac View Post
Did you need to re align your wheels after the drop? Also people said that your tires will wear faster which I'm not sure how that makes sense but just trying to see what I need and don't need.
Yes, alignment is in order after you drop your car. Also, I forgot that you will need to check your driveshaft pinion angle when you lower the rear. Depending on how much you drop, you may need adjustable rear upper control arms to adjust pinion angle. Lot of little things you need to do to do this right.

2013 V6 Base Coupe - Performance and Tech Packages - Ingot Silver

Bama Tuned with Airaid CAI - GT front brake upgrade - More to come.
PPinTX is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Mpaac's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 165
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PPinTX View Post
Yes, alignment is in order after you drop your car. Also, I forgot that you will need to check your driveshaft pinion angle when you lower the rear. Depending on how much you drop, you may need adjustable rear upper control arms to adjust pinion angle. Lot of little things you need to do to do this right.
Ya I see that there's a lot of things that I need so basically I need the springs adjustable panhand, and upper control arms? Also an alignment

2012 MCA 6 speed auto.
Mods: JLT CAI,3.73s,BBK TB,lethal x pipe,93 tune
Mpaac is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Mpaac's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 165
 
Panhard sorry

-----------

2012 MCA 6 speed auto.
Mods: JLT CAI,3.73s,BBK TB,lethal x pipe,93 tune
Mpaac is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013
PONY Member
V6 Member
S197 Member
 
mtu245's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 556
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpaac View Post
Ya I see that there's a lot of things that I need so basically I need the springs adjustable panhand, and upper control arms? Also an alignment

Ok I'm in the middle of doing this install myself. I've slowly been putting together the parts I need. I've created a thread on this very topic last week. I also have done a lot of searing on this forum and found plenty of answers. So, if you just want to lower your car for mainly looks and a tad bit more handling upgrade. Then I think you need to start with these.

1. Lowering Springs (1-1.5'' drop)
2. Performance Shocks and Struts (There are 2 options here 2011+ sku's and 2005-2010 sku's)
3. New Strut Mounts (You can choose caster/camber plates if you want)
4. Adjustable Panhard Bar (Add the brace if you want as well for strength)

Lowering Springs

I have purchased the SR Performance Springs from American Muscle. They lower the car 1.5" all around give or take. There are so may options here for springs. Do a lot of searching on brands and you will get lots of info. Ie. Are the springs really stiff, do they lower as advertised, etc etc. Most popular seem to be Eibach, Steeda, H&R, BMR, FRPP, and even SR for the budget price. But again too many top list options wise. Most people seem to go with a trusted brand and the ride height they are most comfortable with. For budget, I would try and stick with a 1-1.5" drop.

New Shocks and Struts
I have purchased the FRPP Dynamic shocks and struts (A 2005-2010 sku). They seem to be designed to work with stock springs or aftermarket lowering springs. The stock shocks and struts should work ok with lowering springs, but I opted to just change them for a shock and strut designed for lowering springs. It's also sometimes a good idea just because installing them with springs is easy since the new springs have to be mounted to the struts anyhow. There are a few companies that make shocks and struts for 2011+ and if you purchase these you can use your stock strut mounts (if they hold together) or 2011+ caster camber plates. Most of the shocks and struts are 2005-2010 and the threads on top are a bit longer than 2011+. We can use 2005-2010 shocks and struts, but we need to use GT500 Strut Mounts for installation as we have 2011+ cars.

Strut Mounts
So I haven't purchased these yet, but I'm going to go with the GT500 Mounts, because my shocks and struts are a 2005-2010 style. People have told me that with a mild drop at 1.5" there may not be the need for Caster Camber plates. If you drop your car 2"+ there's probably more of chance you might need them. If you track or auto-cross your car, then you might want them so you can dial in your camber preference too. If you want to use a Caster Camber plate with a 2005-2010 strut then you will need to buy the GT500 mounts as well as the Caster Camber plate, you will need part of the rubber bottom of the GT500 mount to attach to the CC plates. Most popular brands are Steeda and Maximum Motorsports. This part can get confusing on how they are compatible, but just look at AM, Steeda, and MM's sites for install guides and it gives you good answers. If your deciding to stick with stock shocks and struts or 2011+ struts and shocks, then the stock mounts can be used. They are supposedly very fragile though when taken apart.

Adjustable Panhard Bar

Don't know if you need this as a must during alignment. I haven't talked to my installer but if I don't need it for alignment, then I may hold off on this for later. However, this helps center the rear. Since most cars are off even in stock form, I'm thinking this is a must regardless. I would also get one that is on car adjustable. Steeda, J&M, BMR, Whiteline, etc all make them.



So I think that might be all you need to get your car lowered and aligned. If i'm missing something please someone chime in, because that's how I've been researching and been told. Also, you shouldn't need Bump-steer kits or ball joints if you drop is 1-1.5". It seems like if you go past 2" in drop that you may need a lot more to do the install right. So keep it within your budget!

My next part in suspension will be Lower Control Arms, Re-Location LCA Brackets, and maybe Sway Bars.If the Panhard Bar isn't required for alignment, then I would save it for this 2nd part of my suspension too. I only street drive and to be honest I don't care too much for the turning and carving aspect of handling. I have zero twisty roads here, as it's mainly straight from light to light. If Sway Bars only affect turns, then I might skip them.

I hope some of this info helps you. Most of it is just re-typed from other threads I've read or been told. If any or all of it is wrong, someone please let me know lol.

2011 Kona Blue MT82 V6 Mustang Pony Package 3:31 Gear Ratio, Interior Upgrade Pkg, Security & Shaker500/Sync
Mods (in order of installed): AM Bama SCT SF3 Tuner w/ 87 Hybrid Tune, Airaid CAI, Hurst Billet Plus 2 Short Throw Shifter, Lethal O/R H Pipe w/ Stock Exhaust, Blacked-Out Tints on Rear Windows, Full Ceramic Tint on Front Windows, Metra Touchscreen Dash Adaptor, Single DIN Head Unit, 6.5'' Component Speakers Fronts, Stock Rear Speakers, 10'' Sealed Subwoofer, 4ch. and 1ch Amplifier. LED licence plate lights, LED interior dome lights, FRPP/Dynamic shocks and struts, SR Performance lowering springs, GT500 Strut Mounts, BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar, BMR LCA's, BMR Relocation Brackets. Rear Seat Delete.
mtu245 is offline  
Apprentice
 
metaman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Southeast
Posts: 209
 
My tires do not wear uneven and I do not have the camber plates. Just did not want to drop the 300+ on them when I knew I was not slamming the car to the ground. The adjustable upper control arm will only be needed if you are slamming the car. Not for a minor drop. I did go with the adjustable panhard bar. I am anal about the way my car looks walking up behind it and the price is pretty low considering what the mod does.

2013 Grabber Blue Premium Couple, Auto, FRPP N Springs, FRPP Dampeners, Lund Tune
metaman is offline  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Mpaac's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Miami
Posts: 165
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtu245 View Post
Ok I'm in the middle of doing this install myself. I've slowly been putting together the parts I need. I've created a thread on this very topic last week. I also have done a lot of searing on this forum and found plenty of answers. So, if you just want to lower your car for mainly looks and a tad bit more handling upgrade. Then I think you need to start with these.

1. Lowering Springs (1-1.5'' drop)
2. Performance Shocks and Struts (There are 2 options here 2011+ sku's and 2005-2010 sku's)
3. New Strut Mounts (You can choose caster/camber plates if you want)
4. Adjustable Panhard Bar (Add the brace if you want as well for strength)

Lowering Springs

I have purchased the SR Performance Springs from American Muscle. They lower the car 1.5" all around give or take. There are so may options here for springs. Do a lot of searching on brands and you will get lots of info. Ie. Are the springs really stiff, do they lower as advertised, etc etc. Most popular seem to be Eibach, Steeda, H&R, BMR, FRPP, and even SR for the budget price. But again too many top list options wise. Most people seem to go with a trusted brand and the ride height they are most comfortable with. For budget, I would try and stick with a 1-1.5" drop.

New Shocks and Struts
I have purchased the FRPP Dynamic shocks and struts (A 2005-2010 sku). They seem to be designed to work with stock springs or aftermarket lowering springs. The stock shocks and struts should work ok with lowering springs, but I opted to just change them for a shock and strut designed for lowering springs. It's also sometimes a good idea just because installing them with springs is easy since the new springs have to be mounted to the struts anyhow. There are a few companies that make shocks and struts for 2011+ and if you purchase these you can use your stock strut mounts (if they hold together) or 2011+ caster camber plates. Most of the shocks and struts are 2005-2010 and the threads on top are a bit longer than 2011+. We can use 2005-2010 shocks and struts, but we need to use GT500 Strut Mounts for installation as we have 2011+ cars.

Strut Mounts
So I haven't purchased these yet, but I'm going to go with the GT500 Mounts, because my shocks and struts are a 2005-2010 style. People have told me that with a mild drop at 1.5" there may not be the need for Caster Camber plates. If you drop your car 2"+ there's probably more of chance you might need them. If you track or auto-cross your car, then you might want them so you can dial in your camber preference too. If you want to use a Caster Camber plate with a 2005-2010 strut then you will need to buy the GT500 mounts as well as the Caster Camber plate, you will need part of the rubber bottom of the GT500 mount to attach to the CC plates. Most popular brands are Steeda and Maximum Motorsports. This part can get confusing on how they are compatible, but just look at AM, Steeda, and MM's sites for install guides and it gives you good answers. If your deciding to stick with stock shocks and struts or 2011+ struts and shocks, then the stock mounts can be used. They are supposedly very fragile though when taken apart.

Adjustable Panhard Bar

Don't know if you need this as a must during alignment. I haven't talked to my installer but if I don't need it for alignment, then I may hold off on this for later. However, this helps center the rear. Since most cars are off even in stock form, I'm thinking this is a must regardless. I would also get one that is on car adjustable. Steeda, J&M, BMR, Whiteline, etc all make them.



So I think that might be all you need to get your car lowered and aligned. If i'm missing something please someone chime in, because that's how I've been researching and been told. Also, you shouldn't need Bump-steer kits or ball joints if you drop is 1-1.5". It seems like if you go past 2" in drop that you may need a lot more to do the install right. So keep it within your budget!

My next part in suspension will be Lower Control Arms, Re-Location LCA Brackets, and maybe Sway Bars.If the Panhard Bar isn't required for alignment, then I would save it for this 2nd part of my suspension too. I only street drive and to be honest I don't care too much for the turning and carving aspect of handling. I have zero twisty roads here, as it's mainly straight from light to light. If Sway Bars only affect turns, then I might skip them.

I hope some of this info helps you. Most of it is just re-typed from other threads I've read or been told. If any or all of it is wrong, someone please let me know lol.
Hey thanks for the response man. I was actually trying to search the forums but for some reason my searches never find anything. I was for sure going to get the panhard, but now ill add the shocks and struts to my list, it seems lowering a car is more work than I actually thought.

2012 MCA 6 speed auto.
Mods: JLT CAI,3.73s,BBK TB,lethal x pipe,93 tune
Mpaac is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
V6 Member
S197 Member
 
V6 Cannonballer's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Desert Southwest
Posts: 6,803
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaman View Post
My tires do not wear uneven and I do not have the camber plates. Just did not want to drop the 300+ on them when I knew I was not slamming the car to the ground. The adjustable upper control arm will only be needed if you are slamming the car. Not for a minor drop. I did go with the adjustable panhard bar. I am anal about the way my car looks walking up behind it and the price is pretty low considering what the mod does.
I've been curious about caster/camber plate requirements for a 1" drop up front. I was almost certain I'd read in many of these threads that they are not necessary, and it looks like I have one more confirmation here.

Thank you for sharing.
V6 Cannonballer is offline  
PONY Member
 
chadhtx35's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Lewisville
Posts: 637
 
This is the kit I bought a few years ago Koni Struts/shocks and steeda springs.

Strano Performance Parts - Part Details

I did go ahead and get GT500 strut mounts(stiffer compound I used with the j&m caster/camber plates)
2010-2014 Mustang Caster Camber Plates at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

I also used UPR double adjustable upper control arm and J&M adjustable panhard bar
2010-2014 Mustang Panhard Bars at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

as well as a BMR relocation bracket for my J&M lower control arm

If you are just concentrating on lowering you may not require all of this, I'd get the panhard bar for sure and then the stranosports kit of your choice if you choose to go that route. the GT500 strut mounts have a stronger cushion(insert) that is why I used them

If you lower more then 1.5 in the back, you should consider an adjustable upper control arm to correct any driveshaft issues.

Cobb Access Port
MAPerformance Tune, CAI, and Intercooler
NGK 6510 Sparkplugs
Everything else is for show.

chadhtx35 is offline  
Seadog
Guest
 
Seadog's Avatar
 
Posts: n/a
It is hard to come up with the perfect setup, since it does not exist. That is why it is so important to think about how you will be using the Mustang. A much stiffer suspension on rough roads is no fun. Too soft can be hairy on corners. Right now, I am looking at something like the Steeda/Koni set above, with Whiteline panhard bar and LCAs, GT500 strut kit. I am also looking at the Whiteline sway bars. With all the products and ability to tweak adjustments, it is a challenge to get right, but take it one step at a time. After each mod, evaluate the change, then make any adjustments needed. There can be occasion when you find a product is not suited for your needs. Then you have to step back and decide whether you can adjust it right, or get a more suitable replacement.
Apprentice
 
Hazim17's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2013
Location: New hyde park
Posts: 76
 
haha lucky you. I wish i could get my car dropped but in ny there are way to many pot holes, snow, and speed bumps

Hazim17 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1