Modding my 2014 V6 - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013 Thread Starter
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Modding my 2014 V6

I haven't done anything yet, but what I am looking to do is add Borla Headers, ATAK cat-back, and a CAI. I was also considering gears, but would I need to replace the whole rear axle or just the gears in the differential? and with that what would be better, 3.31 or 3.73? i have the stock 2.73 now. and any other suggestions?

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013
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You just need the rear gears and not the whole axle. I had the 2.73 in my 2011 and when I ordered my 2014 I put 3.31 in it. All I can say is if I had kept my 2011 I was going to have 3.73s put in it but after having the 3.31 I feel like they are a good compromise you still get good gas millage but have more get up and go then the 2.73.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013
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Gear only. My performance pack came with 3:31 and I am going with 3.73 after 8000miles. If you choose anything other than 3.31 you will need to spring for a tuner to adjust the speedometer.


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2014 V6 Auto, black, Performance Package, 102a, Dynotech drive shaft, brakes: Wilwood Superlite (front), adj. panhard; 3.73 gear; Steeda Sport Springs; Steeda sway bar.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013
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With the gears you do not have to replace the entire rear axle its just the gears. As for which ratio you want either 3.31 or 3.73 it depends on what you want from them. A higher ratio will give you much improved acceleration with 3.31s being faster than 2.73s and 3.73s are faster than the 3.31s. The 3.73s are really popular and will make your mustang feel completely different since higher gears put the rpms closer to these v6s power bands thus quicker acceleration. However, higher gears come at the cost of your mpg. You wont notice a huge change around town but you will definitely notice a difference on the highway. New gears also need a tune to recalibrate your speedometer. In short 2.73 = high mpg all around,slowest acceleration. 3.31 = decent mpg all around, and better acceleration. 3.73 = worse mpg (mid 20's i think), but awesome acceleration.

With the headers if assuming you are talking about long tubes and if thats the case you will also want to add a shorty mid pipe so that everything hooks up. Also depending on your emissions laws you will want either high flow catalytic converters or an off-road mid pipe which deletes the cats, mid pipes come in either an X or and H. A warning tho combining long-tubes with an off-road mid pipe and the borla ataks they will be insanely loud, the s type might be a better alternative but of course its all personal preference. Long tubes also need a tune to get the full benefit of them and to get rid of the error code do to the moved o2 sensors i believe.

As for suggestions, I would do a CAI, a catback exhaust of your choice, and a good tune either bama, mpt, or lund. If you're feeling ambitious you could even throw in 3.73 gears and then see where you stand to do the long tubes afterwards but thats just me. That combination off mods would be pretty awesome.


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2011 Race Red GT/CS: current
MGW race spec shifter, Borla ATAK axle backs w/ resonator deletes, Boss Intake Manifold w/ Steeda CAI, stainless power longtube headers, driveshaft shop carbon fiber drive shaft, ACT twin disc clutch.

2014 Race Red V6: sold
Airaid Cold Air Intake, pype bomb axle backs, bama 91p tune, ford racing 3.73 gears, Barton short throw shifter, Mac ceramic shorty headers.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013
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My car does not throw codes when running the stock tune despite the cai, long tubes and catted x pipe.


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2014 V6 Auto, black, Performance Package, 102a, Dynotech drive shaft, brakes: Wilwood Superlite (front), adj. panhard; 3.73 gear; Steeda Sport Springs; Steeda sway bar.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013 Thread Starter
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thanks for the replies. i may just throw the 3.31s on for now, and if its not enough the 3.73s later. but with that an after market tune will be needed or would ford due the tune because it would just be gears that you can get on their web site.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerw225 View Post
thanks for the replies. i may just throw the 3.31s on for now, and if its not enough the 3.73s later. but with that an after market tune will be needed or would ford due the tune because it would just be gears that you can get on their web site.

I'd just get the gears you want and get it knocked out the first time around. It will save you several hundred dollars in labor, that is if you're having someone install them for you. You could even have another shop install the 3.31s for you and have a Ford Dealership flash it for you. I know I was quoted over 1k for a gear installation at a dealership, I had a well known performance shop quote me for several hundred less.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013
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My car has factory 3:31's. I also have a tune, CAI, longtubes, BBK throttle body, aluminum driveshaft and Ford Rcing Sport mufflers. The performance increase accompanied by these mods is well worth it. Adding 3:73 gears ( you just have to replace the gears and preferably the bearings, not the entire rear end as previously stated) would be the only thing I still want to do.
But then again, I might just throw on a Procharger, and be done with it.
Any or all of these standard modifications will make your V6 perform better. And the good part is, non of them affect the driveability characteristics of the car.

2011 GT. Grabber Blue. Procharged. 3:73 manual.Billit LCA's. Corsa Extremes. GT 500 wheels. Racemaster DR's. T-56 Tremec. Dynotech DS . Centerforce DF. American Racing headers/high flow cats 560 rwhp.Donny Walsh tuned

2012 Pony Package. Race Red.3:31 automatic.BBK longtubes and catted X.FRPP Sport axlebacks. BBK throttle body. Dynotech DS. Brembo wheels and tires. Strut tower brace. Airraid CAI. Bama tuned.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Ok, one of my buddies is a mechanic so he will do all the work for much less than the dealership. i have already talked to him about the headers, and im sure he would do the gears. ill talk to the dealer i got it from and see what they say. i thought about the procharger.. but i may just wait to invest that money in a new mach 1 in few years.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerw225 View Post
Ok, one of my buddies is a mechanic so he will do all the work for much less than the dealership. i have already talked to him about the headers, and im sure he would do the gears. ill talk to the dealer i got it from and see what they say. i thought about the procharger.. but i may just wait to invest that money in a new mach 1 in few years.
Now you are drawing a line. Yes, you can make changes that will give your V6 respectable performance. But your mention of a possible move to a Mach 1 makes this an entirely different ball game. the Mach 1 will have a V8, and it is in a different class than a V6, regardless of effort.

2011 GT. Grabber Blue. Procharged. 3:73 manual.Billit LCA's. Corsa Extremes. GT 500 wheels. Racemaster DR's. T-56 Tremec. Dynotech DS . Centerforce DF. American Racing headers/high flow cats 560 rwhp.Donny Walsh tuned

2012 Pony Package. Race Red.3:31 automatic.BBK longtubes and catted X.FRPP Sport axlebacks. BBK throttle body. Dynotech DS. Brembo wheels and tires. Strut tower brace. Airraid CAI. Bama tuned.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013 Thread Starter
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That's in a few years down the road, I'm only 19 now so I wanna build my V6 as a fun daily driver, so when I get the mach 1 I can drive it on occasion.
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