Need advice on handling - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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ive never scraped with my setup and i havent found a speed bump i cant go over


2014 Black 5.0 Track Pack with to many mods.
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So "handling" is an interesting topic- and you need to answer one question before your proceed to the mods.

The question:
Do you want to set a fast time, or do you want the car to feel really good, or do you want it to do both?

If all you want to do is run D Stock and set a good time, go get the stickiest tires you can afford, get a stiff front bar, and go to town. If you want the car to feel good, wait on the tires and do dampers and stuff first.

For your purchases- I would direct you to Vorshlag LLC
They placed 4th nationally in ESP in autox in 2012, and third in NASA TT3 this year, so to say that they know how to make a Mustang handle is a gross understatement.

Some points of advice/things I have learned-


-Get a Torsen.
-Figure out what your goals are, then buy the correct dampers for those goals. I wasted a lot of time and money going through three different spring/shock combos before I settled on what I have now.
-Chinese shocks are not going to last, and are not going to really perform. Buy USA or European made if you want to "do it right"
-You need good camber plates
-You need sway bars
-Get 18x10 wheels that weigh 20# or less

My "list" for a DD that autocrosses or goes to the track occasionally

- Bilstein non-adjustable shocks & struts
- Vorshlag camber plates
- Lowering springs of your choice- don't go more than ~1.5" drop
(for the above three, check this out...Vorshlag-Bilstein StreetPro Monotube Suspension Kit (S197 Mustang) - Vorshlag LLC) read the whole thing for a good treatise on why lots of shocks out there are doing it wrong
- Sway bars (I like and use Whiteline's bars. Great endlinks, lots of adjustability)
- LCA relo brackets
- Adjustable LCA's (or get the Boss 302R arms, they give you a good pinion angle when used with a lowered car and the Ford Racing relo brackets)
- shifter bracket and whiteline bushing insert

As you get more radical, you'd get into coilovers, different diffs, seats, harnesses, UCA, etc.

Let me know if you've got autox setup questions, I've tried lots of different things and have some real data. Alternately, call Vorshlag and tell them what you need. They'll be more than happy to shoot the sh!t about various setups and give you different ideas.

Good luck, and have fun!

PS- DO NOT get subframe connectors. They are absolutely not needed. The S197 chassis is torsionally stiffer than a Gallardo


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Quote:
Originally Posted by newponyboy04 View Post
thats debateable with saleen being know for their suspensions in their cars
I agree. That's why I said "in my humble opinion" (imho).

2014 V6 Auto, black, Performance Package, 102a, Dynotech drive shaft, brakes: Wilwood Superlite (front), adj. panhard; 3.73 gear; Steeda Sport Springs; Steeda sway bar.
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three words is all you need: Strano Performance Parts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_Rockett View Post
I agree. That's why I said "in my humble opinion" (imho).
I took a hard look at a saleen the other day at the oc auto show...

I saw an awful lot of whiteline parts in there with some koni thrown in

2013 Performance Pack, MCA, Leather Recaro's, NAV
Steeda Cold Air Intake | BBK Throttle Body | Steeda Shifter Bracket | Whiteline Transmission Mount | Magnaflow Street Catback Exhaust | Tuning Super Store Tuned on a Diablosport Intune i1000 | Eibach Sportline Springs | Koni Sport Dampers (Yellow) | Whiteline Lower Control Arms


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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013 Thread Starter
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Awesome info guys as a beginner in mustangs and modding them I will soak up as much info as possible.


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Talk to sqidd.

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I suggest you do springs and dampers when you swap them out. Springs only makes the ride almost unbearable in some situations and the installation cost is the same for installing springs only and springs + damper. I also suggest getting a set of stock GT wheels with performance tires as well. Stay squared set up when it comes to tires. Lower control arms plus lower control arm relocation brackets will help rear grip in autox/track applications. Upper control arms are useless for your application. Swap bars are nice but 80-90% of the body roll will disappear with upgraded springs and dampers. I doubt you will scrape with LT headers since they aren't that low to the ground even when dropped. I would recommend some springs that give you a mild to moderate drop so your dampers have optimum travel for better handling. If you can, have around -2 degree of camber.

Also I agree with the comment that subframe connecters are USELESS. They're for the older mustangs with chassis that are not as rigid as the S197 chassis.

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MODS: KW Variant 3 Coilovers w/ Maximum Motorsport CC Plates | J&M Adj. Panhard Rod | AEM Intake | Bama 91R | Borla S-Type Axle-Back | Boss Front Conversion w/ Saleen Grille + Foglight w/ Auto Headlight | Boss Rear Diffuser | Forgestar F14 18x10 +42 w/ Nitto NT05 275/35-18 (all around)| BMR LCA | SVT GT500 BBK|
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The FRPP suspension kit is not going to disappoint you. I only have part of the kit (the dampeners and the springs) and I can throw my car into a corner no problem with max performance 40 series tires wrapped around 19 inch wheels. The tires are a huge part of it.

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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2013 Thread Starter
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Yeah thats one thing I think I completely disregarded was tires and wheels I mean I knew lighter tires were good because it means less rotational mass and what not and I knew there were performance tires but not really sure what to look at when I am searching for them and also could someone explain the numbers that are associated with the tires? The other thing I was wondering was what about wheel size? Is there an optimal size for my car or is it personal preference?

AND on a side note my roush AB's are in tomorrow and I should have them installed Thrusday I will be posting pics and vids
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18 inch diameter wheels are ideal for performance.

go as wide as you want or can afford...

The tires you want for best handling are called "extreme performance summer" on tirerack.com. These tires compromise everything else for max dry grip... but man are they a hoot.

if you get 18x8 wheels, you want size 245 45 R18. if you go wider, then you can get some really hardcore tire sizes.

2012 V6 Base. 6-speed. 3.31. Roush Wheel Hop Kit. BMR 38mm Front Swaybar. Camber Modded Koni Yellow Struts. Linear Steeda Sport Springs. J&M Camber Plates. J&M Panhard Bar. Airaid Intake. 93R Bama Tune. BBK Ceramic Shorties. Carbon Fiber Trac-Lok w/ Finned Cover. Hawk SR pads. GT Rotors. Spec Al Flywheel & Stage I Clutch, 18x10.5 ET38 Enkei PF01 Wheels. 285 30 R18 RE-71r tires. Boss 302 Radiator.
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2013 Thread Starter
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Alright sounds good but what does 245 45 R18 for tires mean?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpetersS197 View Post
Alright sounds good but what does 245 45 R18 for tires mean?
245 means the tire is 245 millimeters wide. 45 means that the sidewalls are 45% of the width of the tire, the higher the second number the further the top of the tire is from the rim (think truck tires vs low-profiles). The last number is simply what diameter rim the tire fits, and that it is radial construction which all tires are now.

Now, you can fit different width tires on a rim that is say, 7 inches wide and 17 in diameter. You can fit tires 215/225/235 wide for example, but it must be an R17.

Anyways, people use wider tires because they have more contact area with the ground which results in more grip. The same effect can be achieved by lowering the pressure in a narrower tire (fine for drag racing) but will come with some potentially undesired effects. Performance (summer) tires use softer rubber which greatly aids in grip but they come at the expense of longevity. Softer tires will wear out faster and the softest should be reserved only for when you're at the track.

2012 Base 3.7 Race Red: Airaid Intake. Ford Racing 3.73 Gears. Dynomax 39507 Catback Exhaust. Bama 93rV2 Tune. BBK Short Headers. 6 speed retro shift knob.

Wheels/tires: Enkei Raijin 18x8. Sumitomo 235/50/18 HTR A/S P01
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2013 Thread Starter
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Sweet man the light bulb finally clicked with that explanation. I knew that wider tires offer more grip since contact is bigger and the softer I knew that they had short lives but better grip but I finally can understand it when someone is talking about tires haha
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when I talked to vorshlag heres what he told me.

get 18x10's FIRST

you don't need a watts link. hell, you don't even need lca's according to them. the biggest improvement they saw in rear end handling was JUST from the relocation bracket. they had a watts link on their car, they took it off since it wasn't needed to save weight.

according to them, all you need, is more tire on the road (18x10's), their bilstien monotube setup, and lca brackets. this was their advice to me being a guy that's on track in some form or another almost weekly (I hit road courses, autocross, shifter kart tracks (yes in my mustang, very autocross like), and the dragstrip.


2013 Performance Pack, MCA, Leather Recaro's, NAV
Steeda Cold Air Intake | BBK Throttle Body | Steeda Shifter Bracket | Whiteline Transmission Mount | Magnaflow Street Catback Exhaust | Tuning Super Store Tuned on a Diablosport Intune i1000 | Eibach Sportline Springs | Koni Sport Dampers (Yellow) | Whiteline Lower Control Arms


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