V6 Engine removal and replace - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014 Thread Starter
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V6 Engine removal and replace

Hello all, I have searched and searched and cannot find the info I need. I have to replace the motor in my 2011 V6 Mustang. I have a new motor ready to go in. Is it possible to pull the engine from the top or does it have to come out the bottom? I do not have access to a lift and cannot afford to have a garage do it for me. I really need to pull it out from the top and drop the new one in from the top. I hope someone can tell me if it can be done. I have all the time in the world so I can do whatever it takes if it can be done.

Thanks,

Housestang

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Housestang View Post
Hello all, I have searched and searched and cannot find the info I need. I have to replace the motor in my 2011 V6 Mustang. I have a new motor ready to go in. Is it possible to pull the engine from the top or does it have to come out the bottom? I do not have access to a lift and cannot afford to have a garage do it for me. I really need to pull it out from the top and drop the new one in from the top. I hope someone can tell me if it can be done. I have all the time in the world so I can do whatever it takes if it can be done.

Thanks,

Housestang
If you are mechanically knowledgable, you should take the hood off (makes things easier). Drain the fluid from the motor and the transmission. Unhook all lines, hoses and connectors to the motor (ensure you mark lines and hoses for there respected place, itll make your life alot easier when it comes time to hook them back up. unbolt the motor from the tansmission and the motor mounts. you you might be able to find a cherry picker on craigslist or possibly go to your local automotive shop and see if you can barrow one. you should be able to just lift the motor up from the top and take out. ensure you are careful not to mess the paint job up.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014
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Not sure if there are any gotchas on this engine. I don't think too many people have pulled them out yet. I really don't' see why you can't take it out the top. The engine has a ton of space in there.

Mind if I ask you why you are pulling the engine? Did it give up on you? Working on swapping in something else?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spirit_3.7 View Post
Not sure if there are any gotchas on this engine. I don't think too many people have pulled them out yet. I really don't' see why you can't take it out the top. The engine has a ton of space in there.

Mind if I ask you why you are pulling the engine? Did it give up on you? Working on swapping in something else?

Rod bearing went out for no reason at all. and I got a really good deal on a used engine 20000 miles from a wrecked Stang. Two mechanics told me it would be better and much cheaper to just put a new engine in it than fixing mine, and what made it go bad? It could happen again if they couldn't find out why it went bad in the first place.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joeyford05 View Post
If you are mechanically knowledgable, you should take the hood off (makes things easier). Drain the fluid from the motor and the transmission. Unhook all lines, hoses and connectors to the motor (ensure you mark lines and hoses for there respected place, itll make your life alot easier when it comes time to hook them back up. unbolt the motor from the tansmission and the motor mounts. you you might be able to find a cherry picker on craigslist or possibly go to your local automotive shop and see if you can barrow one. you should be able to just lift the motor up from the top and take out. ensure you are careful not to mess the paint job up.
Yes I am mechanically knowledgeable and my buddy who builds race cars and is a mechanic with all the tools to do the job will be helping me only he doesn't have a lift.

Thanks for the reply and the suggestions.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014
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How hard do you drive the car? How often do you change the oil, and what type do you use? If you drive hard and change the oil every 10k miles or more I'd shorten up the oil change interval.

If you're using recommended oil (meets Fords spec), viscosity, and oil change intervals, well sometimes stuff happens. Good luck.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014 Thread Starter
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How hard do you drive the car? How often do you change the oil, and what type do you use? If you drive hard and change the oil every 10k miles or more I'd shorten up the oil change interval.

If you're using recommended oil (meets Fords spec), viscosity, and oil change intervals, well sometimes stuff happens. Good luck.
It's my wife's car and she does not drive it hard(drives like a old lady, LOL). Oil changes have been about every 5000 - 6000 miles and the oil used is Ford recommended 5w20 synthetic
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014
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That's rough, sounds like you just got a bad one. Good luck with the swap. Take notes and pictures.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Housestang View Post
Rod bearing went out for no reason at all. and I got a really good deal on a used engine 20000 miles from a wrecked Stang. Two mechanics told me it would be better and much cheaper to just put a new engine in it than fixing mine, and what made it go bad? It could happen again if they couldn't find out why it went bad in the first place.
Yes, doing a used take out motor should be cheaper than fixing your motor, assuming you got the take out motor at a good price...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Housestang View Post
Rod bearing went out for no reason at all. and I got a really good deal on a used engine 20000 miles from a wrecked Stang. Two mechanics told me it would be better and much cheaper to just put a new engine in it than fixing mine, and what made it go bad? It could happen again if they couldn't find out why it went bad in the first place.
I had a rod bearing go bad for no reason at all as well at 1600 miles. I blame Motorcraft 5w-20 motor oil.

I ran 5w-20 penzoil ultra through warranty, but will switch to something-w30 at exactly 60k miles.

2012 V6 Base. 6-speed. 3.31. Roush Wheel Hop Kit. BMR 38mm Front Swaybar. Camber Modded Koni Yellow Struts. Linear Steeda Sport Springs. J&M Camber Plates. J&M Panhard Bar. Airaid Intake. 93R Bama Tune. BBK Ceramic Shorties. Carbon Fiber Trac-Lok w/ Finned Cover. Hawk SR pads. GT Rotors. Spec Al Flywheel & Stage I Clutch, 18x10.5 ET38 Enkei PF01 Wheels. 285 30 R18 RE-71r tires. Boss 302 Radiator.
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I'd do a used oil sample after any switch to 30 weight. I was using Red Line 5w20 which has a viscosity of a 30 weight oil, and found through a used oil analysis that I had more copper wear than average. Went back to Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and my wear numbers were better than average. I'm not saying all 30 weight oils will perform similarly, but it appears Ford has designed their motors for 5w20 and its flow characteristics.


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Rent a lift. Shouldn't be too expensive.

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You can just rent an engine hoist...example of a place in Atlanta which has Equipment & Tool rental:

Hoist, Hi-Lift Engine - Jacks and Hoists & misc Auto - Northside Tool Rental - Atlanta Tool and Equipment Rental

A friend's pickup can go get it for you.

You might have to rent it twice, as often transferring parts necessary from one engine to another takes a lot of time...especially if there's any difference in transmissions on the two engines. Better to rent it twice than to hurry and not be safe, or hurry and miss something important.

This is at least a twelve hour job, and that's with a lift and proper air tools...without those items...a lot more time.

Have a friend handy to help with some jobs, like removing and replacing the hood, eyeballing the installation of the replacement engine, and for safety reasons whilst using a hoist. And if the hoist won't lift enough, sometimes we must remove the radiator and grille, or take the front wheels off the car, whatever it takes to get the job done...and safely.
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