I am NOT an expert, but I've had some emails asking for some more details on various things, so I'm going to post one of my replies to help others that want to do this. Some is redundant, but I'm trying to make this thread a one stop shop for non-audio people like me to add a sub and upgrade the speakers on the Shaker 500: The site I sent you http://savkomedia.com/kevin/Index.asp
is not a 2011 Mustang, but has great instructions for running power to the amp through the passenger fender well that works on the 2011 also. **Put your windows down before disconnecting the battery, otherwise you can't open/close the door with the windows up because of the way they go down a little to clear the trim** As far as power for the LOC, you will be taking constant power from your amp by attaching the reQ power wire to your amps positive terminal. Turn on power for the amp will come from the remote turn lead you will run to the fuse box. The add a circuit thing is the way to go when tapping the fuse box. I get them on ebay, just search for add a circuit from seller tsisecuritycorp, they are only a couple bucks. In the past I have tapped in by removing a fuse, putting the bare wire in the terminal, and putting the fuse back in, but that is not the best way to do it, plus if you use the add a circuit your turn on lead will be fuse protected. If you use the fuse locations I posted it will work, especially because the add a circuit directions say not to use anything over 10 amps. There is a hole in the strut tower right in front of the battery that I used to run the power wire down into the fender well. I put some wire loom over it all the way from the battery until it got into the car to protect it, especially needed where it passes down through the strut tower. This is important because it the metal wears through the wire covering it can cause a short that could potentially cause a fire! When you run your power wire to the trunk, just tuck it under the door sill. You don't have to pull it off, just pop it up a little on the inside edge. I was able to fit a thick 4 gauge wire under there with no problem. The video I posted on the speaker install is 99% accurate for the 2011. The rear is a pain, you have to remove basically the entire rear interior, but it is not hard - just time consuming. YouTube - 2005-2009 Ford Mustang Speaker Replacement How-To Guide I did have an issue with the reQ regarding the turn on line - mine didn't work when I ran the turn on line directly to it, so I just used my turn on line for the amp as I orignially had it and let the reQ turn on by sensing the speaker input, which is a nice feature of the reQ. Maybe something was wrong with mine, but it works fine this way so I just left it. Did you get the speakers from crutchfield? If so they will send you adapters so you don't have to cut the factory speaker plugs off. When you go to tap the rears for signal to the reQ, I cut the crutchfield adapter, NOT the factory wiring. I just cut the adapter wire and used butt connectors to add the reQ wires. The only other issue is your ground. If you pull the carpet off the drivers side of the trunk (there is one screw and a plastic pin holding it on), there is a metal support with a nice flat surface. I drilled a hole in it, sanded the paint off (very important for a good ground) and used a regular nut/lock washer/bolt to attach the ground wire. You have to attach the reQ ground to the same ground location as the amp, or you will create a "ground loop" and introduce noise to the system. I don't understand all that on a scientific level, but I know if you use the same ground bolt for both grounds you won't have an issue. The head unit is so integrated into the car it would be silly in my opinion to replace it. You are lucky to have the factory nav, and with these upgrades I think you will be impressed with the sound. I am amazed by the sound of my system now. It is way better than anything I've had before, including high end head units. Do you have the premium package? I hope so because the 8" woofers in the doors do make a big difference as I posted in my thread. Definitely leave them hooked up despite anything you may read about same frequency bass waves cancelling each other out. I lost a lot of midrange sound when I disconnected them. Also, I played around pointing the sub into the car, but it sounds much better pointed towards the trunk. This seems to be the consensus on audio forums as well, something about bass waves bouncing off the rear makes it sound better. Are you going to use the Rockford bass knob? I love mine, I can't imagine not having it. I have downloaded a lot of music of varying qualities over the years, so it's nice to have an easy way to make quick adjustments to the bass level. As far as the cutoff switch I added, it's not really necessary, but I did it for a few reasons. Manily, my wife doesn't like the bass, so she can turn off the amp if she wants. Also, if I take a big vacation or need the trunk room, I can pull the box out of the trunk and not have a live wire flopping around back there, that could cause big problems! You can definitely do this yourself with all the information that is out there. Plan on it taking the better part of a day if you're slow like I am. But then again, I didn't have a lot to go on so I had to come up with some solutions on my own like I posted. If I can help on anything, or you need a picture of anything in particular let me know. Just take your time, and keep that battery disconnected until you're done.
2011 Sterling Gray GT Premium
3.55 | 6MT | Factory 19's | Security Package
Mods: Borla S-type axlebacks, sound, tint, louvers, Epco shift knob, Airaid CAI, BAMA 93 Race tune, Batron shifter and 2 post bracket
The few, the Proud, the 5.0's.....