Originally Posted by GoT midlife CS View Post
Typically you would want to fire the subs to the rear first, down second, to the side third, and lastly up or towards the front, but you already know this. The shaker 1000 fires it's subs in the same configuration as the stealthbox (to the side). I think the more important thing is having a clean signal, good power, and a properly designed box. These factors will play a much greater role in the sub sound quality. Sounds like you are gonna get the right parts, so firing to the side will not be an issue for you. I have 2 - 12W3's in the trunk of my vert, facing the rear .... needless to say, there is very little space in there for anything else. If stealth box comes out with a unit for the new verts, i will probably pick one up, everyone i've ever heard sound great.
I also have the lockpick you reference, it will connect to the existing camera, and also allows you to add an additional one. I do not have a camera on my car yet, but may consider one soon. I have not been able to type in the navi with the car moving, i think i may have a setting wrong, but it is not a feature i cared about. It will definitely play movies while in motion. I have not noticed any other drawbacks or differences to the rest of the normal factory operations.
Thanks a lot. It's good to hear the Lockpick works well. I've been wanting one forever. I forgot about it for a while, or I would have already ordered it. It's also good to hear you've had good experience with the Stealthbox. I have no doubt it will sound good, I was just worried about the output. But it sounds like that's not an issue. Thanks for the help!
I have a stealthbox with a 13w6 in my car, the fitment is tight and clean looking and sound is great (best of all i still have alot of trunk space). Personally i would go the stealthbox route and avoid building a box, it will be easier for you and the sound quality and look in my opinion will be much better.
I would go with the Stealthbox, but they are just too much. For about 1/3 the money, I can build a replica Stealthbox, and buy a 13w3v3 (what they come with now). I have lots of experience building boxes, so it will be just as good as the JL box. Plus, I can blend it into my trunk, and have it painted to match the car if I want. I think that's the route I'll go (instead of the 10w7). It is really nice having lots of trunk space. My 12w7 box took up about 1/3 of my Cobra's trunk. I made it as small as possible, but it was still big (and still slightly undersized). It was BARELY small enough to fit through the trunk opening. I had to remove the trunk latch just to get it to slide in/out. It was a real pain in the ass. But it sounded amazing!
The stealthbox looks good IMO, and from what I've read and heard sound excellent. Besides u said u were prob going w/a 10w7 powered by 500/1? That would be way underpowered to get the performance out of that sub. I would go with the 10w6. Would have more sq b/c it would be more efficient w/500 watts.
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The 500/1 will drive a 10w7 pretty well, but an HD750/1 (or 1000/1)would likely be the better amp for a 10w7. If I decide to go the w7 route, I might step up to the bigger amps. But for now, it's looking like a 13w3v3 in a custom Stealthbox clone.
What are you guys using to feed a signal to your amps? Are you using just speaker-level inputs, line converters, or a full-scale processor like the JL Cleansweep? I'm thinking about doing just a line converter until I upgrade the mids/highs (then it will be a processor). If so, I guess it would be best to tap into the front door subs' speaker wires. I'm not sure, but it sounds like those have low-pass crossovers on them. I'm also guessing the other front speakers (and back speakers) have protection circuits that limit the bass fed to them. The last thing I want to do is tap into a line that's gonna limit my output or distort the signal.