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post #9 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2012
Turbofred
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: El Paso
Posts: 85
 
Any Suggestions?

I also installed an after market amplifier and a subwoofer in the trunk in my 2011 V6 convertible. The speaker for the subwoofer housing was a raveland, the amplifier also.

Because the trunk from the Vert is different than that from the Coupe, I decided to buy a customized box for the Vert. After all, it seems that the housing is for all 2005+ models the same. I bought the housing at Zenclosures.com - they offer it on ebay and in their online store. Here you can see the housing, the protection for the speaker(optional) and the 8 screws for the speaker(optional). I also chose the golden speaker connection terminals. Over al, it was almost $160.



The protection for the speaker wasn't manufactored that precise (angle) and the small phillips screws were too long - so I had to use a file to bring it even and to the certain length:



Now I had to adjust the cable to the trunk lid, so that the housing fits underneath it. With the mounted amplifier it was a really thight installation - a bigger amplifier has to be mounted somewhere else:





Also the carpet has to be cut in shape. I had to saw a little piece of the wodden bottom off, otherwise you couldn't access the spare tire after you mounted the housing. I attached the housing to the bottom of the trunk with two screws from underneath the car (you can see the cut outs in the carpet). Unfortunately I wasn't able to use the threads in the botttom because the housing was too small (the holes would have been drilled in the vertical walls from the housing and in the bottom).

Now, where you can get the power?
I pulled the powercable from the battery through the front passenger fender into the inside if the car - it seems that the FORD engineers have forseen that there is a need to pull an additional cable into the car:





The remote signal for the amplifier: It depends what you want, there are two main possibilities:
1.) HOT when RUN or START
This means, the amplifier is on, if you start the car or if the engine is on. (i dind't choose this way)
2.) HOT when RUN or ACC
This means, the amplifier is on, if the key is in ACC position or the engine is on
I decided to use this possibility, because it switches the amplifier off if you start the engine so there is more power for the starter available. In some cases it protects the speaker also, because not all amplifier shut off if there is a loss in voltage (when you start the engine) and give some weird signals to the speaker.
I pulled that signal from the SmartJunctionBox (inside at the front passgenger side) from the violett-yellow cable (where the red probe tip is). This is some of the few locations where you can access this signal.

Now it was time to pull the power cable to the trunk - i removed some panels and lifted the iluminated panels at the front door only so far, that I could remove the carpet underneath it (unfortunately the panels are glued at the outside).



To get the signal to the amplifier i used the signal from the rear speakers, to get the level even for the amplifier rca input i use this Hi-to-Lo-Converter (some amplifier have HI-Level-Inputs).
I used the ground (for the amplifier) near the passenger tail light. To access that you have to remove the rear plastic panel in the trunk (unfortunately no picture).

After all, it was worth the time - it looks (and sounds) good, even when the roof is open (there is more bass if the roof is closed). The housing isn't that big, so I can use my Stang still as a family car...



So, hopefully somebody can use this little story for his advantage - we don't have to reinvent the wheel every time.

My car: 2011 V6 convertible Premium, Performance white, automatic
Mods: Pioneer&Kicker speaker, Airraid CAI, SCT-Tunes, painted mirror covers, 3.73 gears, FRPP LCA's, One-Touch-Convertible-Module, Fog lights
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