How about if you turn the volume down would that help?Not everyone want"s to hear the music 5 miles away, or the my new learned word BUMPING or better put TARGET, how do you hear fire trucks or police cars with all that BUMPING going on in and out of your car,bad as the dam texting and cell phones.
Presumption at it's finest. Maybe some understanding is in order. While there are your adolescents that seem to be empowered by ludicrous amounts of bass in their rides......this is not what's being discussed here. Most music.....whether produced in the 50's or today, cannot be truly appreciated without a subwoofer. For instance the lowest note on a standard bass guitar is 41hz @ standard tuning......most stock audio systems fall on their face long before they get even close (door speakers drop off steeply below 80-90hz).......so I don't fault those that want some impact from their tunes by using a sub. That aside, my car has numerous rattles without a sub running, so I can relate in a sense to the OP and others. Dynamat can help. If you want the most effective and least time/$ consuming do just the decklid and isolate the license plate. I've found the best fix in previous cars I've had systems in is to remove the rear speakers altogether. That will relieve the pressure in the trunk and vent into the cabin for a double benefit......plus IMO it sounds much better to have the soundstage projecting from the front only. OP- ported box or sealed? A ported sub is usually going to move more air around the trunk, thus creating more rattles than a sealed configuration all other components being equal.
2012 Kona Blue 3.7 MT82
Airaid CAI, Flowmaster A-back, BBK ceramic shorties, black enkei raijin 18x8.5, Steeda ultralites/pro action dampers, whiteline PHB & brace
RJW Aggressor matte black stripes, GT bumper/CS valance/Saleen grille, AM black shift knob
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