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joihan777
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2006 Mustang Convertible Shaker 500 + 150 Subwoofer Project

Shaker 500 + 150 Project

I have a 2006 V6 Mustang Convertible with the Shaker 500 stereo system. Overall not a bad setup for a factory system, but it lacked deep bass, as the door ‘subwoofers’ didn’t handle frequencies below 80Hz very well. Being a convertible, and having limited funds, I decided to beef up the stock system with subwoofers without any changes to the stock Shaker 500 system.


I chose an amplifier/ subwoofer combo from Kenwood: Kenwood 150-watt Bass Package Includes KAC-1502S 2-channel amplifier and two KFC-W110S 10" subwoofers at Crutchfield.com [While I was at it, I swapped out the stock full range door speakers for a pair of Kicker 6x8 speakers. I put a 5x7 Boom Mat enclosure behind them (the shallow ones), as the 6x8 Boom Mats are too big.]

This is how I added a subwoofer to the Shaker 500 while keeping the system stock:

I prioritized balance of trunk space & loudness. Zenclosures makes a pretty decent box, but it juts too far into the trunk for my needs. Custom Sub Enclosure | Affordable Sub Box

I designed a box that allowed me to access the spare tire while the subwoofer box is still installed. The face is 11½” high and overall 40” wide. I used ¾” MDF and sealed it with silicone. It's stuffed with polyfill speaker ‘stuffing’. I covered it with typical speaker box carpeting. The shape & carpet allows the box to sit in the trunk without requiring it to be bolted down. My design is suitable for 8” or 10” subwoofers. The topmost corners were slightly beveled to allow for a tight fit, on the passenger side it also prevented damaging a wiring bundle in the trunk.

Wiring was typical. I used an 8 gauge kit, which is sufficient for a 150watt RMS amp. Though crimp lugs were included, I soldered wherever I could.

I removed the passenger side inner fenderwell while the wheel was still on... would have been easier with the wheel out of the way! Once removed, a large rubber grommet is revealed. It has a little ‘nipple’ on the side not used, so I cut a notch into the nipple and passed the power wire through it. It slid right in. The wire was passed to the battery via a hole already in the sheetmetal. In the picture the hole is backlit so it is easier to see. I put a plastic grommet on it to prevent any chafing of the wire. There is nothing inside the rubber nipple from inside the passenger compartment, so the wire was passed through to the back along the passenger side. The remote wire & RCA signal wires were fed to the amp via the driver side.

The audio signal was tapped from the Shaker 500 subwoofer outputs and fed to an Audio Control LC2i Line Out Converter. I used one channel from each side. Power was tapped off one of the Shaker Door subwoofer amps, as the draw is only 150mA. I mounted the LC2i on simple zipties to the loom under the driver footwell to allow for convenient fine tuning. The remote resides in the armrest compartment on the little access door not used in the 05’ & 06’ models. I may end up mounting it though. The LC2i sends a strong signal to the amp and it sounds great. The door 'subwoofers' are unaffected by this method.

It helps to have an assistant!

The inside of the trunk, once the liners are removed, reveal an empty area on the passenger side. (The tube is for draining the convertible roof area). An extra piece of MDF worked well here as the sheetmetal gap is nearly flat. The amplifier was mounted on this MDF, resting on some nylon spacers to allow for a little airflow under the amp.

With the amp & subwoofer box mounted, the trunk floor is still wide enough for most needs and still allows access to spare tire. The amp wires were passed from under carpet for a very clean look.

The system now thumps nicely! It isn't obnoxious but you definitely 'feel' the bass

Finished product. Can you see anything? Looks stock? GOOD!

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