I've had my 2013 GT500 for about a month now and the first thing I want to do is remove the stock Shaker 500 system with the integrated NAV system. I've done a good bit of research in advance on how to approach this and have everything figured out, but I have yet to find an actual wiring diagram of the 2013 door speaker amps. I know the 8" base amp is under the driver kick panel and I plan on removing those subs completely and putting in a component 6.5" woofer and am going to mount my component tweeter in the factory 6x8 location using custom brackets. All of this will run to an aftermarket 5ch amp.
I have three questions I am hoping someone can help with:
#1) Does anyone know what each of the wires do for the 2013 Shaker amp? Are they the same as the 2005+ diagram that was posted on here in the sticky section? I primarly need to know what wires seperate each ch so I can tap into them.
#2) I've heard the factory shaker500 amp that powers the door speakers is located in the trunk area behind the carpet on the driver side, is this correct? I haven't torn into the car yet due to work but figured it might be easier to ask so I can further plan out the wire runs.
#3) I plan on running new speaker wire for my door speakers in the front and rear and hooking them up to a 5ch amp. I am going to splice my JL Audio Cleansweep modules into the 4ch factory amp for the speakers as my line-in sources for the speakers, use a JL signal summing device for a sub ch, and remove the door subs as mentioned above. If I decide to remove all the factory shaker amps will I still retain sync and bluetooth functionality or is there a special harness I need? I've read mixed things on this with the F150 guys but apparently they have an aftermarket Sony system as part of the premium upgrade and it is different. My #1 reasoning with keeping the factory NAV HU is to retain sync/bluetooth.
Thanks in advance for any help, I've found more useful information on these forums than any other Mustang forum yet
We have been battling the 2013 Shelby GT500 stereo install for over a week now, and still having problems with the JL SSI & Cleansweep. Answers to your questions:
1) We ran new wires to the crossovers thru the kick panel to the doors to signal the CS5 component system mid & mid bass, used the factory wire for the tweeter. You may want to run all new wires to avoid using & searching for the factory ones, and then battling polarity issues.
2) Factory Amp is located on left side driver's kick panel above open hood pull handle, there is no other factory amp located in the rear nor anywhere else.
3) You have to remove the DOORS completely to run new wires as the new rollock connectors & grommets do not allow any pass thru area. Make sure you have a friend help you to remove the doors, its not that difficult, but makes the install just that more difficult.
So far we've spent about 4 days on this system, ended up taking it to a Pro. He fixed everything got the CS to calibrate and tuned the system. After I left his house and turned the system off, then on again, lost all signals, and I was cussing up a storm. We believe we have the power wired wrong, so thats our next thing to look at. Otherwise BE PREPARED to go thru hell. The system is all JL Audio C5 component system, 5x7 C2's in the rear, and custom JL stealth box SUB in the back.
I am at the point of uninstalling the entire system and going back to CRAP stock amp/speaker system unless we can figure something out this coming week. Shame on Ford for putting such crappy cheap chinese speakers in a $65000 car. The only nice thing I like is the head unit. When you turn it on, a cool looking COBRA appears on the screen to greet you. Otherwise I would have trashed the head unit too and installed my own deck (screw the cleansweep & SSI)