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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017 Thread Starter
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First gt. Need some pointers

Hello everyone. I'm not new to the forum. But I'm new to the v8 scene. I previously had a 99 v6 5speed. And I just bought my first 2002 Gt 5 speed Monday. Any pointers welcome. Thoughts on what to upgrade appreciated. I just need some general maintenance help. Recommended spark plugs and wires. What oil works best with this stang. It has 248,xxx miles (yea I know its alot but it's been taken care of and I got a Great deal it as basically given to me). It's got a cold air intake with a throttle body spacer. Pretty sure throttle body is not stock (it should have the horse on it if it were stock right?), acel coil packs (don't know much about that), BBK x pipe with 40 series flowmasters. And thats all I was told.

Here's the bad part. Had check engine code. They said it was oxygen sensors but when I got it checked it had nothing to do with oxygen sensors and turned out to be something about air too hot and the mass airflow not working (the maf wasn't plugged in for some reason though) and cylinder 4 & 7 are misfiring. It doesn't seem like it's misfiring though it idles steady and drives perfectly fine. Any thoughts appreciated.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017
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Congrats on the new ride! My first Mustang was an 04 GT 5 speed and I miss the 2v sound from time to time.


The first thing that stands out to me is the coils. Motorcraft/OEM is the best thing for these cars and anything else can lead to misfire issues like you're having. These engines will idle fine but act up under load when the aftermarket coils go bad or if the wrong spark plugs are used. The oxygen sensor code can appear when the mixture is too lean or too rich, and is not necessarily a sign of bad oxygen sensors. If the code is coming up for both banks (P0171 & P0174 or P0172 & P0175, etc) that is a sign of a faulty MAF sensor. Do make sure it stays plugged in and if you are still having issues, try cleaning the MAF sensor. You may need to replace it.


The codes can also be from vacuum leaks and these engines have a lot of vacuum lines. There are 4 or 5 attached to the throttle body and they draw air from the EGR valve, EGR solenoid, and PCV valve. There are more lines that connect from the intake manifold to the gas tank and somewhere in between there is the EVAP purge solenoid which can also give you codes when it goes bad. Check to make sure all connections are good and if any lines are cracked or brittle it's time to replace them.


Also with the mileage getting up there, it may be time to replace the timing chain & tensioners and possibly the lash adjusters as well as the cam followers. If they've been replaced at least once in the past you don't have to rush but they may be going bad soon so I would start saving up for those.


For oil, I would recommend Motorcraft or Pennzoil 5w-20 and an FL820S filter. There aren't many substitutes for Motorcraft oil filters. Some people will disagree on the oil viscosity but the goal is to run the thinnest oil that maintains hot idle oil pressure of 15-20 psi. If it registers less pressure than that, you may have worn rod bearings among other things which isn't unreasonable on an older engine.


2007 Mustang GT/CS coupe
Procharged--cammed--Lito tuned--coilover suspension
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40th GT View Post
Congrats on the new ride! My first Mustang was an 04 GT 5 speed and I miss the 2v sound from time to time.


The first thing that stands out to me is the coils. Motorcraft/OEM is the best thing for these cars and anything else can lead to misfire issues like you're having. These engines will idle fine but act up under load when the aftermarket coils go bad or if the wrong spark plugs are used. The oxygen sensor code can appear when the mixture is too lean or too rich, and is not necessarily a sign of bad oxygen sensors. If the code is coming up for both banks (P0171 & P0174 or P0172 & P0175, etc) that is a sign of a faulty MAF sensor. Do make sure it stays plugged in and if you are still having issues, try cleaning the MAF sensor. You may need to replace it.


The codes can also be from vacuum leaks and these engines have a lot of vacuum lines. There are 4 or 5 attached to the throttle body and they draw air from the EGR valve, EGR solenoid, and PCV valve. There are more lines that connect from the intake manifold to the gas tank and somewhere in between there is the EVAP purge solenoid which can also give you codes when it goes bad. Check to make sure all connections are good and if any lines are cracked or brittle it's time to replace them.


Also with the mileage getting up there, it may be time to replace the timing chain & tensioners and possibly the lash adjusters as well as the cam followers. If they've been replaced at least once in the past you don't have to rush but they may be going bad soon so I would start saving up for those.


For oil, I would recommend Motorcraft or Pennzoil 5w-20 and an FL820S filter. There aren't many substitutes for Motorcraft oil filters. Some people will disagree on the oil viscosity but the goal is to run the thinnest oil that maintains hot idle oil pressure of 15-20 psi. If it registers less pressure than that, you may have worn rod bearings among other things which isn't unreasonable on an older engine.
Thanks man! I've enjoyed it these past 2 days lol.
And the acel coils say that they do not throw cel codes specifically on the description. Plus they're $200 so they should be pretty good if not better right? And the car idles great and there's literally no problems under load either. I can accelerate to 100 with ease. No jerking , chugging, or choking. I really had no idea it was even misfiring until I got the codes read. And there was no oxygen sensor code. The person I bought it from said that was the only code coming up but when I got it read, there was 4 different codes and nothing to do with the oxygen sensor.
And okay I will clear the codes and see if it comes back up again since I plugged it back in.

As for the vaccum lines I'll be going over them when I get off work thoroughly to makes sure they're not getting worn.

And yes I'll have to start saving for it then. I probably won't mess with any timing or any of that until it's actually a problem since it's so costly and takes a while to do.

And thanks for the info about the oil. It says 5-20 on the cap I was just making sure since the mileage is high. Would it be worth switching to a synthetic or is that not a good option? Also could you tell me how to check oil pressure? Thanks again for everything you wrote up for me man!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017
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I was just sharing what other people with those same coils have told me. If you had a P0300 or 030x (final number is referring to which cylinder the misfire is coming from) with the Accel coils, then you know they're bad. They may have been okay at one point but without knowing how old they are, I would not rule them out until you try a new set of Motorcraft coils.

If this engine made it this long without synthetic oil, I would keep using the regular stuff. Or if the previous owner has been using synthetic, use that instead. Oil pressure is checked with a gauge you tap into the oil filter housing to get a reading. There is a fitting screwed into the housing from the factory which is for the stock oil pressure gauge (which is inaccurate because it's either in the middle or all the way left and does not give you a true reading). You install a T fitting into this location to run an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. The gauges are only around $20 from the parts store.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40th GT View Post
I was just sharing what other people with those same coils have told me. If you had a P0300 or 030x (final number is referring to which cylinder the misfire is coming from) with the Accel coils, then you know they're bad. They may have been okay at one point but without knowing how old they are, I would not rule them out until you try a new set of Motorcraft coils.

If this engine made it this long without synthetic oil, I would keep using the regular stuff. Or if the previous owner has been using synthetic, use that instead. Oil pressure is checked with a gauge you tap into the oil filter housing to get a reading. There is a fitting screwed into the housing from the factory which is for the stock oil pressure gauge (which is inaccurate because it's either in the middle or all the way left and does not give you a true reading). You install a T fitting into this location to run an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. The gauges are only around $20 from the parts store.
I understand. I wasn't trying to argue about it. I wss just really hoping they weren't the cause lol.

Would it be bad to switch to the Motorcraft synthetic BLEND 5-20? That's all they had for Motorcraft at like 3 different stores

As for the oil pressure. Is that the only way to test or would one of them really fancy thousand dollar scan tools be able to read that data?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017
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here's a silly question. Does the X-pipe have cats on it? If not that the cause of your 02 censor problem.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imcarloslol View Post
I understand. I wasn't trying to argue about it. I wss just really hoping they weren't the cause lol.

Would it be bad to switch to the Motorcraft synthetic BLEND 5-20? That's all they had for Motorcraft at like 3 different stores

As for the oil pressure. Is that the only way to test or would one of them really fancy thousand dollar scan tools be able to read that data?
The Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w-20 will be just fine. It's what the factory recommends for these cars.


The oil pressure comes from a mechanical reference point, and it's something an OBD scan tool can read. So a gauge would need to be tapped into the oil flow path to get a good reading.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicBlue02 View Post
here's a silly question. Does the X-pipe have cats on it? If not that the cause of your 02 censor problem.
This would be true if he is getting a cat efficiency code. If the code is related to a air/fuel mixture fault, then it's likely that the o2 sensors are actually bad or there is a vacuum/exhaust leak.

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