What upgrade should I do to my car next, with current mods? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up What upgrade should I do to my car next, with current mods?

Hey there guys. Just gonna keep it short and sweet. I've been torn on what to do next to my car. I have most of the standard bolton's so I don't know if I should do more power mods or do gears or suspension work. Currently my Auto 02' GT has the following :

H pipe + Flowmaster Catback
Stock Manifolds
Underdrive Pulleys
K&N CAI
Intake TB + Plenum
Bama 93 Tune
Eibach Proline Springs

I have 4:10 gears sitting in my closet with the install kit ready to go in, the shop want's $400 to put them in for me. Just curious if you guys think I should do the gears now or use the $400 in a different way. I hear gears work wonders in an auto, but also good things about LCA's. Thoughts? Thanks!


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017
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Subframe connectors!


1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017
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Subframe connectors and lower control arms help transfer the power to the ground.

Gears will make you feel a lot faster and be fun to drive.

Cams would help actually make more power. But you're looking at ~$600 for cams, plus install.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017
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What is the goal of the car? There are ideas I have but won't suggest anything not knowing what you want out of the car.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017 Thread Starter
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What is the goal of the car? There are ideas I have but won't suggest anything not knowing what you want out of the car.
The goal is to have a fast straight line car. I'd like to take it to the strip this summer sometime (She's never seen the strip, at least not with me)

My ultimate goal is to have it run low 11's which sounds crazy now but I'm going to have this car for a LONG time.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017 Thread Starter
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Cams would help actually make more power. But you're looking at ~$600 for cams, plus install.
I am also looking at cams as well. How much power would I gain from them, say, if I put stage 2 cams in with my stock heads on?

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017 Thread Starter
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Subframe connectors!
Big difference with them compared to stock???

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017
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First things first then...Install the gears and get a set of rear rims with some slicks. Then subframe connectors. Then look in to a power adder. Low 11s is no joke with our cars...you need horsepower for that and a good launch. Easiest and quickest way is nitrous. 150 shot could get you into the 11s with no issues but will require a parts list.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017
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I second, getting the gears done. You already have them and as far as seat of your pants, you will feel this mod more than anything else you do at the present. next I personally would dig into the suspension. if you want an 11 second car at some point you are going to invest a nice bit of cash, you will also need a solid structural base and if you add too much power before you go back to the suspension, you increase the likely hood that you tear **** up and have to replace along the way. Things like LCA's and Subframe's will definitely help get more to the ground and sure things up.
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$400 for a gear install is reasonable if the mechanic you're taking it to does good work.
Gear & tire selection should be carefully thought out. For example, shooting for low 11s means 120+mph trap speeds which will have you turning close to 6700rpm at the traps, if you stay with 4.10s. If you're looking to run a power adder/nitrous to get there, you'll need to build the engine internals anyway, so while you're in there I would upgrade the valvetrain to handle 7000rpm.
Alternatively, you can run a 3.73 gear instead, with the 120mph trap speed as the final goal to cross the line at 6100rpm which will be easier on your valvetrain if you decide to keep that part of the engine stock. Personally this is the route I would take because 3.73s are better for highway cruising. You shouldn't have any problems selling those 4.10s if you decide to do this.
A third option is to purchase 28" diameter rear tires (275/60/15 for example) to raise the effective gear ratio. The car will behave like it's got 3.73s even with 4.10s installed.


Either way you will need a dedicated set of wheels/tires for the track. Sticky tires that will yield 11s with minimal effort won't be suitable for the street.


I do agree with what's been said about gears and suspension. LCAs, subframes, and 3.73s or 4.10s will set you up with a better foundation. Then I'd start saving for a stronger rotating assembly. IMHO head/cam work on a 2v (and most other engines) is a waste. You will get much more for your money with a blower/nitrous.

2007 Mustang GT/CS coupe
Procharged--cammed--Lito tuned--coilover suspension
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