Looking at buying a mustang and need help(opinions please!!) - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018 Thread Starter
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Looking at buying a mustang and need help(opinions please!!)

Hey guys....Here's the deal. I've have wanted a supercharged Mustang since I was a little kid. I just sold my motorcycle and I think its time to make that happen finally! I have been looking at all years and models but have narrowed it down to 1999+. I have been debating weather I save my money for a Termi, buy a nice Mach, buy a 2v with supercharger already, wait and save my money for a more expensive 11+ 5.0? I have looked at all of these options. I really didn't want to spend huge money if I don't have to. I found a nice Mach but it was almost completely stock and if I have to add a supercharger to one that doesn't already have one that is big money. It seems that finding one the way I want for the most part is the best way. Anyway....I am kind of looking at a 2001 Bullitt that already has alot of work done to it. I wanted to know if you guys can give me opinions on this set up and if so what you think it should be worth? It looks nice but I'm just not sure if this is a long lasting build? Here is what I know. I really appreciate the help guys! Thanks in advance.

2001 Mustang Bullitt #5050 with 115k miles. Everything done around 15k miles ago. Ready to go. Interior is in good shape. 460 HP / 500 TQ

Tvs1900 supercharger @ 14PSI

Intercooled

5.0 stroker kit(Eagle crank, rods and pistons)

Tremec 5 speed

8.8 solid axle with Moser axle shafts, Moser ring and pinion at 3.08 gear ratio.

18" XXR rims with nitto 555r tires

Eibach pro springs 1" lowered

Subframe connectors

Maximum motorsports camber/caster plates

Adjustable rear suspension

Tokico rear shocks

Saleen front bumper

Forged crank, rods, blower pistons(Eagle)

Comp cams

Ported heads(Fox Lake)

Lightened flywheel

Center force dual friction clutch

Firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant

Lethal Performance Fuel system, cobra fuel tank, 1/2" fuel lines, 2 GT super fuel pumps, fore precision billet hat

42# an hour green top injectors

MSD coils

KB cold air system with K&N

SCT handheld tuner with custom tune

Stainless shorty headers, pypes x pipe with flowmasters

Saleen fuel pressure (not currently working and havent looked into), boost, intercooler h20 temp gauges

Optima battery relocated to trunk

Newer radiator and alternator

New master rear end rebuild, crush sleeve, differential fluid service.



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Last edited by Rangermike14; 02-20-2018 at 11:29 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018
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I drive an older car (she'll be 21 this year) and have all my life ( except once I bought a new car had it till I paid off the loan then got an old one again) Any way, its not the milage it the years I've had 5 year old cars with 100K and drove them another 100k with little to no repair i've got a 21 year old car and things fail daily, it the age stuff gets brittle, sticky stuff isn't sticky anymore stuff that wasn't sticky gets sticks and on and on.

Your looking at a 17 year old car to start with. I don't know what your spending but you can buy a 2010 or 2009 in auto trader with around 100K miles for less than 10 K and get a blower kit for 5K so your 15K into a newer blown car.

Just my two cents


I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018 Thread Starter
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He is asking $9500. Was looking for something under $10k but wondering if Im better off waiting and spending more. If I get a newer body I think Id hold out for a 2011+ 5.0....thoughts?
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018
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It becomes a head vs heart and how confident you are in your assessment of the vehicle. If the car is as you describe, then you are basically considering a vehicle that was overhauled to new 15k miles ago...assuming it has not been abused since. By way of comparison, I purchased a bone stock (except tires and wheels) 2000 GT convertible last Oct and have all the pieces to redo the front/rear suspension and tie subframes/do torque boxes...add purchase price and needed repairs before driving it, and I'm in at about $7500. I have no blower and probably $1000 left in cosmetic/mechanical repairs...so if your Bullit is as slick as the photos, $9500 seems an okay price. That said, given the HP, I'd want to get it on a rack and look closely at the subframe tie welds and up/lower torques boxes for twist or damage before closing the deal.

Underestimate me, that will be fun.
GREEN WORM RACING--since 1959

These are my opinions...YOU are responsible for YOUR decisions and YOUR outcomes...AND, my not arguing with you does not indicate agreement with your opinion.
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