2000 Gt - Loss of power on high humidity days - Interesting topic - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #61 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-27-2018 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Blacksunshinee's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 165
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
The IAC went bad on my dadís Ď97 GT and no code. The symptoms was an intermittent buck and chug at low speeds. Itíd stall sometimes. It would also make a howling sound when it was acting up. How I found it was it started howling and I put my ear to the air box and realized the sound was coming out of there. I had to use a calibrated ear, since it didnít give a stinkiní cel.
a guy who I met with an X-GT '01 (Now 100% Saleen Clone) lol gave me for free a complete stock Ford AIC with it's MAF and AIT, also he gave me an IAC that looks like new but something that brought my attention was that my IAC has a spring inside and the one he gave hasn't, so for that reason I haven't install it. I found out the other day that this AIC with no springs inside are knock off's.
Now I do remember a howling sound (I always play metal or rock very loud in my car) coming from the engine this past winter a couple of times when going at least at 3,000 rpm but like I mentioned probably it happened before many times but music is loud. I might have to drive music less until I hear this sound again or just buy a Motorcrraft IAC.

Blacksunshinee is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
4.6L Member
 
SoCal2V's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: see user name
Posts: 8,705
               
Lol @ "durable BMW". No seriously, I did lol. Good thing I wasnt taking a sip of my beer when I read that part. That was a good one buddy, have fun at your local BMW specialist hahaha.



2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
SoCal2V is offline  
post #63 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Blacksunshinee's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 165
 
Garage
So I'm driving my way back home on the highway and the battery light starts flashing at random times so I turned off the stereo and kept driving to my local Autozone because all mechanic shops are closed after 5pm around here so the guy at the Autozone connects his device and shows me "bad battery" and tells me the cost of a new one so I'm like ok give me a few minutes. I scan the ECU to see if I had any other issues and as usual NOTHING. I turn on the engine and let it run and unplugged the negative terminal while the engine running and the car kept running for a while until I decided to shut it down. I purchased the new battery and left home...a block away from home the battery light comes on again but this time stayed ON. Went back to the Autozone and we check the alternator and is GOOD, shut down the engine to test the new battery and is GOOD. We look for the belt and is good, loose connection NOPE! The light is now ON permanently now. What should I do? Thanks for reading all this BS. BTW the car feels weird like a lack of acceleration.
Blacksunshinee is offline  
 
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,752
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksunshinee View Post
So I'm driving my way back home on the highway and the battery light starts flashing at random times so I turned off the stereo and kept driving to my local Autozone because all mechanic shops are closed after 5pm around here so the guy at the Autozone connects his device and shows me "bad battery" and tells me the cost of a new one so I'm like ok give me a few minutes. I scan the ECU to see if I had any other issues and as usual NOTHING. I turn on the engine and let it run and unplugged the negative terminal while the engine running and the car kept running for a while until I decided to shut it down. I purchased the new battery and left home...a block away from home the battery light comes on again but this time stayed ON. Went back to the Autozone and we check the alternator and is GOOD, shut down the engine to test the new battery and is GOOD. We look for the belt and is good, loose connection NOPE! The light is now ON permanently now. What should I do? Thanks for reading all this BS. BTW the car feels weird like a lack of acceleration.
Slow down Dimebag Darryl. Don’t pull the cable off while it’s running.
It’s been weird and slow this whole time. It’s highly possible you have more than one issue.
Check for a loose or broken wire on the back of the alternator. Check for bad grounds. Blown fuse.
I’ve also seen a bad alternator (mine) test “good” at the parts store If the alternator is on it’s way out,it’ll be down in a short manner.
As for the IAC my dad has had this BWD on his 4.6 for a several years now without issues.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...%2FMotor&pos=1

Put this link in your back pocket with your wallet on a chain.
http://diagrams.hissind.com/wp-conte...rd_mustang.pdf
90lxwhite is offline  
PONY Member
 
GT'sGT's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 960
 
Fix any vacuum leaks, replace the PCV valve, and clean your intake valves and manifold and check your compression.
GT'sGT is offline  
post #66 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Blacksunshinee's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 165
 
Garage
All right guys! This morning I took the car to a recommended mechanic this was his diagnosis. He thinks the computer is messed up. I took a screenshot of his scanner so you all can see and lmk what are your thoughts. Thanks! He said that I shouldn't be worry about until the next summer but I wish I can figure it out what's th problem, I already tossed a lot money on body kit (Saleen Clone project) and next summer I was planning to install a pro charge.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181006_105158.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	313.4 KB
ID:	606131   Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-07-26 at 2.59.42 PM.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	149.0 KB
ID:	606133   Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 9.45.18 PM.jpg
Views:	10
Size:	183.4 KB
ID:	606135  
Blacksunshinee is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,752
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksunshinee View Post
All right guys! This morning I took the car to a recommended mechanic this was his diagnosis. He thinks the computer is messed up. I took a screenshot of his scanner so you all can see and lmk what are your thoughts. Thanks! He said that I shouldn't be worry about until the next summer but I wish I can figure it out what's th problem, I already tossed a lot money on body kit (Saleen Clone project) and next summer I was planning to install a pro charge.
Does he think there is a problem with your computer because his scanner didn’t get any error codes other than bad ground to the trunk?
Across from pcm it says 0.
You’re back to where you started. It didn’t throw a code that he could use.
You’re not going to get a code every time something is wrong.
90lxwhite is offline  
post #68 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Blacksunshinee's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 165
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Does he think there is a problem with your computer because his scanner didnít get any error codes other than bad ground to the trunk?
Across from pcm it says 0.
Youíre back to where you started. It didnít throw a code that he could use.
Youíre not going to get a code every time something is wrong.
yeaaa...I guy on Fb New Edge page member told me the same! This guy didn't know anything. Now a couple of people think that having the Air filter right next to the engine is the real issue (because is sucking hot air from radiator fans and engine too) I show them frames when the car was running sluggish in the summer so they think the air filter shouldn't be there. IDK! and not having a bracket holding the CAI can send bad readings to the MAF. Also car works fine after unplugging the battery for 10 minutes then the symptom comes back.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	43289704_10214801032438468_841546730812997632_n.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	31.5 KB
ID:	606139   Click image for larger version

Name:	43199520_10214801033438493_3693946241365835776_o.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	80.9 KB
ID:	606141   Click image for larger version

Name:	43382020_10214801044278764_2830989257496068096_o.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	79.2 KB
ID:	606143   Click image for larger version

Name:	43207428_10214801045078784_8100948321922711552_n.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	29.9 KB
ID:	606145  
Blacksunshinee is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,752
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksunshinee View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Does he think there is a problem with your computer because his scanner didn’t get any error codes other than bad ground to the trunk?
Across from pcm it says 0.
You’re back to where you started. It didn’t throw a code that he could use.
You’re not going to get a code every time something is wrong.
yeaaa...I guy on Fb New Edge page member told me the same! This guy didn't know anything. Now a couple of people think that having the Air filter right next to the engine is the real issue (because is sucking hot air from radiator fans and engine too) I show them frames when the car was running sluggish in the summer so they think the air filter shouldn't be there. IDK! and not having a bracket holding the CAI can send bad readings to the MAF. Also car works fine after unplugging the battery for 10 minutes then the symptom comes back.
The powertrain control module is the computer. See where it says 0 under DTC’s? That means no codes found.
I’ve had three vehicles with the air filter open and exposed in the engine bay. One of them the filter was laying where the air box was without a bracket. None of them were ever tuned, they all had stock maf’s, and they never had issues due to the location of the filter. I’ve also relocated a stock mass air sensor way far away from its original location, as well as mounted vertical instead of horizontal like it is stock. That didn’t cause any issues either without a tune either. The guy who told you no brackets and bad clamps said that because you paid him and he came up with nothing. He didn’t just want to say, “uhh I dunno..”
At this point you’re probably going to have to buy a voltmeter and learn how to use it to test the sensors. Unless you can find a mechanic that is willing to go through it vs just trying to pull codes. We know that they aren’t going to find any by now.
Maybe still look into a smoke test. A compression test and a leak down wouldn’t hurt either.
90lxwhite is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,752
           
90lxwhite is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
wmburns's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,812
         
Did anybody else notice the "drop outs" on the ECT and IAT graphs? I have always been taught that a drop out in a sensor signal means there's a weak or loose connection somewhere in the wiring path (ground or power).

Aren't we suspecting an electrical problem? Even worse an interment electrical problem? Given that, does it make sense to ignore a potential "solution" to a difficult problem.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
wmburns is offline  
post #72 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-06-2018 Thread Starter
Apprentice
 
Blacksunshinee's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 165
 
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
Did anybody else notice the "drop outs" on the ECT and IAT graphs? I have always been taught that a drop out in a sensor signal means there's a weak or loose connection somewhere in the wiring path (ground or power).

Aren't we suspecting an electrical problem? Even worse an interment electrical problem? Given that, does it make sense to ignore a potential "solution" to a difficult problem.
IDK what else to do with this car I just put it on sale. I wish I can keep it but it discourages me everyday. Sometimes I'm driving with the convertible top open and people driving Mercedes or BMW's compliment my car and I am so ******* frustrated that I don't even answer to them. This car it's possessed by the devil. I just bought the Saleen side scoops but I haven't drop them to the body shop. I already put like $6K or even more. Well at least I get to enjoyed for a few months. I hope the next person can figure it out the issues.
I think I'm going to buy a new one, a Mercedes Benz, BMW or Audi and be another brick on the wall.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-07-26 at 2.57.30 PM.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	170.6 KB
ID:	606153   Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-07-26 at 2.58.40 PM.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	206.5 KB
ID:	606155   Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-07-26 at 2.59.42 PM.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	149.0 KB
ID:	606157   Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-05-30 at 9.45.18 PM.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	183.4 KB
ID:	606159  
Blacksunshinee is offline  
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,752
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksunshinee View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
Did anybody else notice the "drop outs" on the ECT and IAT graphs? I have always been taught that a drop out in a sensor signal means there's a weak or loose connection somewhere in the wiring path (ground or power).

Aren't we suspecting an electrical problem? Even worse an interment electrical problem? Given that, does it make sense to ignore a potential "solution" to a difficult problem.
IDK what else to do with this car I just put it on sale. I wish I can keep it but it discourages me everyday. Sometimes I'm driving with the convertible top open and people driving Mercedes or BMW's compliment my car and I am so ******* frustrated that I don't even answer to them. This car it's possessed by the devil. I just bought the Saleen side scoops but I haven't drop them to the body shop. I already put like $6K or even more. Well at least I get to enjoyed for a few months. I hope the next person can figure it out the issues.
I think I'm going to buy a new one, a Mercedes Benz, BMW or Audi and be another brick on the wall.
Just gonna throw in the towel like that? Why can’t you learn? Get a multimeter, goggle how and where to use it.
The next guy is probably going to change the iac, or the coolant temp sensor or something easy like that and have themselves a good running car.
The entry level euro’s are kinda corny my man. How are you gonna look jamming slayer in 1 series sedan?
Nothin says rock n roll like this bad boy
https://www.carmax.com/car/16560208
90lxwhite is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1