Joined: Dec 2007
Location: New Smyrna Beach
Steve's complete coyote swap writeup
Hey everyone, I have been asked several times about my Coyote Swapped New Edge project and the steps taken to get the car to where it is today. I am aware this will be very lengthy and have very few photos for now but will add photos as I can. Bare with me as this will be the complete journey from start to finish.
I was shopping around for the perfect New Edge for my swap project as I wanted it to be something “different”. Everyone that has a new edge knows the market is pretty flooded with the common color cars such as Blue, white, red, black. I finally found my perfect car in Mansfield Ohio on craigslist. The seller was very helpful about replying back to me and told me there was some slight damage to the car and would work with me on price. Car is a 2004 40th anniversary edition Competition Orange Mustang GT. The body had some damage and the interior was clean with under 100k on the odometer so I decided to purchase it for $1,800. The damage was left rear quarter panel dent, rear bumper cover faded and slight crack in cover, front bumper cover faded, and rear spoiler faded. After driving the car for a few months and stockpiling of Coyote parts I started to figure out my build as I could not build another 4.6 2v again.
I towed the car to my friends house on a Saturday back in May of 2018. He has a 2 post lift and an air compressor so I made a deal with him and was able to use the shop as long as needed to get the swap complete. The important thing to remember when doing work on any car is to remember the steps needed to protect yourself and the car at all times. I always remove a hood when I am going to be doing anything to a motor so I have plenty of clearance to work and not cause any damage to the car. Fender covers are a must and are relatively cheap insurance to protect the fenders while leaning over them to work in side the engine bay as well.
With the car on the lift, the hood removed, the wheels removed, I started to drain fluids and get the power steering pump and A/C compressor removed from the engine. I left the lines connected for them both so I would not need to deal with them leaking as they were being reused in the project. With the rack and pinion unbolted from the k-member and the power steering pump off the block, I took a bungee strap and pulled them out of the way and held them up so I would not have to completely remove them. Removed the driveshaft and then removed the exhaust as I was not using either of these with my build. Dropped the gas tank and prepared it for my new fuel system that I purchased from Lethal Performance. I lowered the car back down and removed the shifter and bezel then went under the hood and removed the battery tray and battery, the cold air intake, and then disconnected the 42 pin connector that is the main engine harness connector from the passenger side firewall location (bolt size is 10mm).
Since I was doing a complete suspension kit on the car (wish I had money for coil-over kit but used a complete Eibach system) I dropped the K-member with the engine and transmission still together with the complete suspension system on the front struts and all. With the engine and transmission now out of the car I raised the body back up and went to work on the rear of the car. With a lift I had this much of the work complete in 2 hours. I used a tripod jack stand to prevent the rear end from moving as I started to unbolt the rear control arms and removed them and springs from the rear. With those removed I removed the stand and lowered the car down so I could remove the rear seats and get it ready for the torque box reinforcements to be installed. I am not a welder so I decided to drill the holes and bolt them in. When I finished one side I installed the new BBK upper and lower control arms and the eibach shock on the one side so I could do the other side. The hardest part was finding a good drill bit to get thru the floor. When the rear end was complete on the suspension side of things I got inside the car to cut off the excess length of the bolts going thru into the car from the torque boxes. With the rear seats still out of the car I decided to unbolt the front seats and pull the drivers side trim out so I could run my battery cable to the trunk for the battery relocation kit. With the fuel tank still out of the car I was able to drill the holes to mount the battery box in the trunk. At this point I have been working on the car for a total of 6 hours and was ready for a break.
Sunday I went back to my friends house and he was in the shop looking at the progress I made the day before. We unbolted the stock 2v engine off the k-member and started to figure out the plan for selling parts off the car that we no longer needed. We discovered that the fuel system kit I ordered from Lethal Performance was challenging to use with the stock tank as the plastic housing that is made into the tank needs to be busted out of the tank to allow clearance for the new fuel hat and twin pumps to fit into the tank. I decided about 2 hours into this process to drive to Westerville Ohio and pick up a Cobra tank from On3 Performance and make this process much easier. After driving back to his shop we were limited on time so we decided to get the engine and transmission into the car and call it quits for the night. (I used the stock K-member here and had multiple issues I did upgrade to UPR tubular k-member and reused stock control arms at a later date). The coyote engine has the bolt holes to use the 4.6 style motor mounts allowing it to fit the 4.6 style k-members. With the coyote engine out of the car I decided to simplify the process and connect the wiring harness outside of the car and install the supercharger lower manifold as well. I installed the quicktime bellhousing and the flywheel and clutch at this point as well. After fighting the twin disc clutch I was able to mount up my T56 Magnum as well to make the install much easier. We lowered the body back to the motor and then operated a cherry picker and the lift simultaneously until we had k-member bolts lined up. Keep in mind the stock a/c hoses being left in the car. The passenger side valve cover “rubs” the hoses going into the car. The steering shaft needs to be pried into place thru the driver side header. It is best to have a friend or 2 helping when getting the engine in the car to keep clearance issues under control and to help with the shaft. Once the k-member was in place I raised the car back up and got under it with the tripod jack stand and raised the transmission into place. Figuring out the shims for the stifflers adjustable mount was challenging but did work out in the long run for me.
Monday after work I drove back to my friends house and started the frustrating issue of figuring out the driveshaft issues. Using a T56 magnum and having a Coyote swap engine the stock driveshaft was not going to fit nor hold up to the power my car was going to make. I ordered driveshafts from multiple companies and was unable to find one that fit. To save you alot of time call Driveline 1 in Columbus Ohio at 614-279-7734 and they will build you a custom driveshaft for your swap. They told me to switch out my rear flange to a pinion flange that would support the 3150 u-joint with a strap style u-bolt. They were able to assist me with figuring out how to measure the length for the custom driveshaft and they had it ready for pickup in 4 business days. I mentioned to them that my car was going to exceed 800 RWHP so they made it strong enough to support my needs. With the driveshaft in and the car coming down to wiring, fuel system and exhaust to be completed I was in for the challenging part of the swap.
The remainder of the week and all of the following week was spent researching the wiring and trying to figure out the routing I wanted to do for my new return style fuel system. I started the fuel system on a Saturday morning and decided not to do the dead-head setup on my car. I was told from a few guys that going dead-head on high horsepowered cars can cause an issue with it running out of fuel at high rpm and high boost levels. I fed the fuel system down the passenger side of the car and thru the inner fender into the y-block provided in my kit. Coming off the y-block I fed the front of both fuel rails then on the back of the rails I have lines going to my fuel pressure regulator. The return line then goes to the tank. I mounted the regulator back in the spot that the 42 pin engine connector was for the 2v engine. My vacuum boost reference line runs from the FPR to the back corner of my lower intake manifold.
Next up on the challenging factors were mounting the VMP triple pass heat exchanger. I removed the stock front bumper cover and tried to fit the heat exchanger in behind the crash bar. It will not fit, so I removed the foam off the front of the bumper crash bar and test fit it there. Realizing the stock bumper cover was no longer going to fit with this mounted here I ordered a 2003/2004 Cobra cover from Summit Racing using my summit bucks I got the cover for less than $100. I drilled holes in the crash bar and used ⅜ all thread and a sleeve to go over the all thread to mount the heat exchanger. Using large fender washers and nylon lock nuts I put these on both the front and back of the crash bar to fully secure the heat exchanger. On the left side of the heat exchanger studs I mounted the intercooler pump (later discovered the cobra fog lights will not fit due to the pump being mounted here, still havent moved the pump). I noticed that my stock hood was obviously going to need to be replaced at this point to clear that massive VMP Gen 3 blower. Ebay searching I found a guy in Cincinnati Ohio who custom makes fiberglass hoods. I called him and realized that I would need at least a 4 inch cowl hood and it will need to be wide to cover the JLT cold air intake. I drove to his shop to pick it up and got this rough finish fiberglass hood for $225 cash.
I installed all digital autometer gauges because I was uncertain if I could get the cluster to work on my car. On my triple gauge pillar pod I have wideband, fuel pressure, and oil pressure. On my steering column pod I have my boost gauge, and lastly the instrument cluster bezel I have water temp and volt meter. 6 digital gauges is a bit excessive but it is a nice peace of mind knowing exactly what is going on with my car at all times. After I got these mounted I allowed my son who is 7 years old to wire them in when I showed him how to do so. While he was working on the wiring of the gauges I was figuring out where to mount the coyote swap control pack computer and the wiring harness. I decided to put the computer in the passenger side fender where the stock air filter housing used to be. The wiring harness needed to be fed thru the dash and tie into the harness under the steering column so I routed it thru the dash on the driver side and put it thru a plug that was large enough in the firewall for the connectors to go thru for the engine. I currently do not have the wiring schematics for the car to make everything work but I do plan on getting these very shortly and have an update on these very soon. I completed my swap in 6 weeks while working a full time job that was 45+ hours a week. The exhaust was complete at an exhaust shop (Tuffy in Lancaster Ohio, Joey Deerfield was the guy who fabricated the connection pipes to fit my BBK offroad x-pipe).
Follow this post for an update on the wiring schematics and photos.
Below are the parts build list.
Steve’s Complete Coyote Swap Parts List
Gen 1 Coyote engine from 2013 GT
Mcleod Clutch - 6932-07
Quicktime Bellhousing - RM-8080
Morosso Oil Pan - 20571
BBK Ceramic Swap Long Tube Headers - 16340
BBK Off-road x-pipe - 1787
Control Pack - M-6017-504VB (Manual 2013 car part number will change depending on car)
T56 Magnum - M-7003-M6295
Mcleod Flywheel - 563408
Mishimoto Radiator - MMRAD-MUS-97B
Maximum Motorsports Clutch Cable - MMCL-11
ATI Damper - 918047
Boss Crankshaft - M-6303-M50B
ARP Main Studs - 156-5803
ARP Head Studs - 256-4301
Manley Rods - MAN-14042R-8
Mahle Pistons - MHL930258040
Main Bearings - MS2292H
Rod Bearings - CB1442H
Autometer digital fuel gauge - 6563
Autometer digital voltmeter - 6593
Autometer digital oil pressure - 6527
Autometer digital boost - 6559
Autometer digital water temp - 6537
Autometer digital wideband - 4379
Lethal Performance 1400 horsepower fuel system - LP-FS-SN951400HP
FIC1200 Fuel injectors
Torque box reinforcements - UPI-1002
Bumpsteer kit - 555-8104
X2 ball joints - 555-8101
Polyurethane front control arm bushings - 6-207BL
BBK Subframe connectors - 2543
Reverse Lockout solenoid - AWR-ELUN-10013
8.8 Diff cover - FMS-M-4033-G2
Instrument cluster pod - ATM-10005
Corbeau LG1 seats - 25501PR
03/04 Cobra bumper cover - F01000533c
Camber bolts - SPS-81280
Mr. Gasket battery box - 6279
BBK Control Arm Kit - 25260
Eibach Pro System plus - 3517.680
BBK Caster Camber Plates - 2527
Spring Isolators Front - 56054
Spring Isolators Rear - 56055
Staggered Bullitt Anthracite Wheel Kit - 391197
Raxiom Icon LED Taillights - 387472
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter handle - 555-7153
Deep Dish Anthracite wheels - 28321
Nitto NT01 - 371570
Yukon Gear Positraction 31 Spline - YDGF8.8-31-1
Yukon Gear 31 spline Axles - YAFM4235E
Yukon Gear Ring and Pinion - YGF8.8327
Gear install kit - YKF8.8A
ARP Wheel studs - 100-7703
Powerstop Brake Kit - KC1302A-26
VMP Gen 3Kit Twin 67 & JLT - VMP-SUK040
Power by the hour brackets
On3 Cobra Fuel Tank
UPR K-Member - Keeping stock A Arms
Roush Line Lock
Pillar Gauge Pod & Steering Column Pod
2003 Mustang GT Convertible 5 speed - Mostly stock 4.6... 455 rwhp and 573 ft/lbs torque. (SOLD due to divorce)
Currently working on Coyote Swap of a 2004 GT