Electrical Issue - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019 Thread Starter
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Electrical Issue

So I have my engine & transmission pulled right now, painted the engine bay and the car got fully resprayed. Because of this I removed pretty much everything from the bay except for the master cylinder and a few other things, every visible harness basically. I unbolted and disconnected the driver side harness and removed all of those wires and removed the CCRM module from the pax side, basically everything. Now that I have everything plugged back in again I can't get power to the inside of the car. I have all the grounds connected that are on these specific harnesses, the only harness I'm missing is the engine harness right now for obvious reasons. Any help is appreciated

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019
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Originally Posted by ryan1253 View Post
Now that I have everything plugged back in again I can't get power to the inside of the car. I have all the grounds connected that are on these specific harnesses, the only harness I'm missing is the engine harness right now for obvious reasons. Any help is appreciated
I'm assuming that you have confirmed there is "always on" power inside the fuses of the Battery Junction Box(BJB=F1). Right?

Next, double check that the CCRM/PCM ground that connects to a large round single pin connector. The black wires and black wires with a white stripe (BK/W) that goes around the battery and onto the radiator core support/battery negative.

Double check that the two grounds on the left hand radiator core support are in place as well as the battery negative ground.

There's also another ground on the right hand radiator core support. It's easiest to see under the air cleaner.

But the biggest grounds runs THROUGH the engine! There's a very large ground going straight to the block. Plus there's another grounding strap that goes from the left hand motor mount to the frame rail. With the motor removed that ground path does not exist.

Do you want to rule out some possible causes? Test all of the BK/W wires on the CCRM for the ability to carry a real current back to battery negative. Use a test light that will "load" the circuit.

Confirm there is key on power into and out of fuse F2.34. If no power suspect an ignition switch problem.

Confirm there is key on power into and out of fuse F2.2 and F2.8. If no power suspect that the CCRM is not "latching" up.

Do the head lights work? If not suspect no power inside the BJB (you did check this right?). Or main ground is no good.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...ml#post2669271

1996+ Crank with no start check list
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...e.html#2984838

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-drop-test.56/

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2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.

Last edited by wmburns; 07-27-2019 at 12:16 PM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
I'm assuming that you have confirmed there is "always on" power inside the fuses of the Battery Junction Box(BJB=F1).

Next, double check that the CCRM/PCM ground that connects to a large round single pin connector. The black wires and black wires with a white stripe (BK/W) that goes around the battery and onto the radiator core support/battery negative.

Double check that the two grounds on the left hand radiator core support are in place as well as the battery negative ground.

There's also another ground on the right hand radiator core support. It's easiest to see under the air cleaner.

But the biggest grounds runs THROUGH the engine! There's a very large ground going straight to the block. Plus there's another grounding strap that goes from the left hand motor mount to the frame rail. With the motor removed that ground path does not exist.

Do you want to rule out some possible causes? Test all of the BK/W wires on the CCRM for the ability to carry a real current back to battery negative. Use a test light that will "load" the circuit.

Confirm there is key on power into and out of fuse F2.34. If no power suspect an ignition switch problem.

Confirm there is key on power into and out of fuse F2.2 and F2.8. If no power suspect that the CCRM is not "latching" up.

Do the head lights work?

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...ml#post2669271

1996+ Crank with no start check list
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...e.html#2984838

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-drop-test.56/
So I can't get power to the accessories without the engine grounds set up? Because I feel like I've had the key turned on before with the engine out and the power worked but I might not remember correctly
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019
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Originally Posted by ryan1253 View Post
So I can't get power to the accessories without the engine grounds set up? Because I feel like I've had the key turned on before with the engine out and the power worked but I might not remember correctly
I gave you a TON of very detailed and specific information and tests. Can't help you without any test results.
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2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019
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I gave you a TON of very detailed and specific information and tests. Can't help you without any test results.
I suspect we have both learned over the years that use of a ton of information takes WORK! GuessWORK takes but little, eh?
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