Hello, I am new to muscle cars! A few questions if yall dont mind. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012 Thread Starter
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Hello, I am new to muscle cars! A few questions if yall dont mind.

Hey guys, I currently own a 2005 sentra ser spec v, but am ready to move to the muscle car world! I dont really know anything about the best way to modify these cars, I am currently looking at a 94-96 style, black with intake and exhaust already on it.
Thoughts or advice on engine/general modifications.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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I would shoot for a 96-98 same body style, little bit better money/hp ratio.

I wouldnt look for one with intake. that can be bought for cheap. if you can find one with a FULL exhaust that would be best, exhaust is expensive and free's up a nice amount of ponies.

if you could find one with a complete or partial PI swap thats even better.

the 96-98 have a few "performance lacking" things that ford overlooked or didnt care about when trying to get the new motor out.

basically the only/best mods you can do to this car before hitting major power mods, bottles and blowers.


pi intake
pi cams(any nice aggressive cams)
pi heads( optional, raises compression and only nets like 5-10HP)
nice complete exhaust(gets rid of factor 6 cat midpipe)
tuner with tune( stock tune is a performance SUCKER)
gears(stock gears are 2.73 or 3.27) some nice 3.73/4.10's go a long way.

once you do that, thats about the most power your going to gain from this model year stang, and should only cost about 2K to do all that, on top of the base gt you buy.


I'm not an expert on pushrods, but the 94-95 are pushrods and I know nothing about them, all i know is they dont make anywhere near as much power money wise.


hopefully this helped.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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Pushrods will be easier/cheaper to work on. Search the forum for 5.0 vs 4.6 threads and you'll get no shortage of opinions sprinkled lightly with facts if you look hard. Whatever you do, you're better off looking for a low mileage. Also, for a couple extra grand (what kids69gt quoted in parts), you could almost buy a cobra!

This is a witty statement!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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idk...possibly, you could do what i did (listed above) for right about 3K and make about 260HP, vs 5(for a bad condition cobra) up to 9K for a nice one. and judging by the years he is looking at he doesnt have the cash to blow on a cobra
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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We all know the cash will be spent...albeit up front or trickling away by the promise of bolt-on hp as the years go by depends on the personality of the buyer. Just layin all the options out there

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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oh i'm not trying to say your wrong, don't get me wrong.

it just kinda seemed like judging by the dates he is looking at money may be an issue. It was for me and thats why i settled for a 96 instead of a 99-04 like i originally wanted.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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Dont buy it. Save your money. Enjoy live.

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Mods = None. (well maybe just a few)
DB-Performance Tune: 634rwhp @ 6000rpm , 609rwtq @ 4000rpm, (500rwtq @ 2500rpm)

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012
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I would certainly go with the 5.0 ... I would also start with chassis and suspension, gears, and just make the car as healthy as possible all around. Only them I'd spend money on power adders.
Suspension and gears changes the car from a sleeper to a tiger. Even if not fully grown yet, still a tiger! Try to not compromise quality for a few $$ even if it takes time to complete the process. It is better to pay a little more and get the right parts and labor for it.. I rather pay for MM and put it on in the best shop possible (and there are that many good shops that really knows what they doing. Depends where you are.
When I did that, I was long term and short term happy, when my budget did not allow and I was tempted I was disappointed or it broke, the installation was wrong and so on, I ended up paying more money; buying a weak part first and spending $50 less on the part but then I ended up buying the weak and than having to buy the better and pay for it again.

02 GT; MM, Eibach, Bilstein, FR rearend 3:73 & drive shaft, DF, 18 Saleens, 04 Cobra brakes, Aquafab, CAI, Super Coils, Tri-X, Magnflow X, ,superchip
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99BlueJet RIP
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012 Thread Starter
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wow so much information!! It all helps, and definatly narrows my search down a lot!! Now about how many miles would yall consider "low or decent"?? i found one with 115000, another with 125k, and the other two im not sure about just yet. Opinions?
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115K and 128K is a difference but not big.. Check the frame rails, Engine tranny rearend... What ever is better condition.
Dont get blinded by a few chrome/shiny parts

02 GT; MM, Eibach, Bilstein, FR rearend 3:73 & drive shaft, DF, 18 Saleens, 04 Cobra brakes, Aquafab, CAI, Super Coils, Tri-X, Magnflow X, ,superchip
In memory of my beloved
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTRS View Post
115K and 128K is a difference but not big.. Check the frame rails, Engine tranny rearend... What ever is better condition.
Dont get blinded by a few chrome/shiny parts
That is a great point about the Shiny parts.

Sometimes though, it all boils down to how it feels when you are behind the wheel.

1996 Mustang GT Convertible - Drowned
1999 Mustang GT Convertible -My Current Baby
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Quote:
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That is a great point about the Shiny parts.

Sometimes though, it all boils down to how it feels when you are behind the wheel.
That and only that! True, true. Its just that to me, it takes time to learn all the little misbehavior of my lady Do you know what I mean..? There is a tweak here and a rattle there and it could be a lose bolt or it could be a lose piston.. lol.
Well, you know what I mean..

02 GT; MM, Eibach, Bilstein, FR rearend 3:73 & drive shaft, DF, 18 Saleens, 04 Cobra brakes, Aquafab, CAI, Super Coils, Tri-X, Magnflow X, ,superchip
In memory of my beloved
99BlueJet RIP
April 6 2011.
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OP, what's your budget?

Personally I would shoot for a 99-04 car, as it is a much better starting point in terms of performance. If it's going to be a daily driver, try to find something with less than, or at least not too much over 100K. The engines in these things will last forever if taken care of, but the rest of the car it's bolted into will eventually fall apart. So the less miles the better.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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pushrods are much easier to work on and cheaper to mod

not saying pushrods are better than modular engines ( i have both, and both have their pros and cons) but go with what is best for you. if you are technically savvy in any way shape or form, 5.0's are SUPER easy to work on.

have you thought about a 99-04 mustang GT? they are a lot faster than the non pi 4.6L's, and they have the newer modular technology as opposed to the 5.0's

1985 Regatta Blue vert 5.0- 87 5.0 shortblock, T5 transmission, Steeda Tri-ax Shifter, A/C delete, UDP's, edelbrock rpm performer intake, holley 600 4bbl carb, dual flowmaster 44's with o/r H pipe, MSD ignition, 1.72 roller rockers, Tokico HP shocks/struts, FRPP B springs, FRPP 4.10's

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