Help with next modifications to my 2000 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014 Thread Starter
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Cool Help with next modifications to my 2000 Mustang GT

Hey everyone. I'm just looking for some opinions on future modifications to my Mustang. I've saved up around $3,000 dollars but am not sure where to start. I'm looking to gain horsepower mostly for occasional quarter miles racing. This is a daily driver in the summer time and stored in the winter. I'm not looking for a race car but something pretty quick I can take to the track a few times a year and have fun. Here is what I'm currently working with. 2000 Spring Edition Mustang GT Convertible, 5 speed, 18 inch chrome bullet wheels, Hurst shifter, bbk off road h-pipe, 40 series flowmasters, bbk cai, bbk 70mm throttle body, eibach front and rear sway bar, 373 gears. Thank you for your opinions I'm advance.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014
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For $3K you're almost in the realm of supercharging. You also should think about suspension and brake upgrades. You don't need to go crazy, but at a bare absolute minimum subframe connectors and good lower control arms (UPR, Maximum Motorsports .... There are many others, but those are two I like).



2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014
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I'd step up to 4.30's, some stage 2 cams, a nice clutch. a good dyno tune. or get a used procharger (usually 2k) use the extra grand to tune it, run about 430RWHP.

[COLOR="Black"][B]2004[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]Torch red[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]mach 1[/COLOR] Cams, mac long tubes, lethal offroad X, magnaflow IRS exhaust, strange front coil overs, strange 14" 175lb springs, 4.30's, FRPP 31 spline differential, Moser 31 spline axles, steeda tri-ax, exedy 2 clutch, FRPP throw out, FRPP pilot bearing, MM clutch goodies, K&N poly intake, SCT tuned

[B][COLOR="black"]1996[/COLOR][/B][COLOR="DarkRed"] Lazer red GT[/COLOR], 2002 Pi swapped, stage 1 cams, shift kit, ram air intake, UPR offroad X, flowmaster dumps, 125 wet shot...
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for reply guys. I know I definitely need subframe connectors with having a convertible. I will start there and with the control arms you mentioned. I've taken it to the track once and traction was horrible lol. I like the idea of supercharging it but after I mess with the suspension and if I get a tunner or get it tuned I don't think I'd have enough once I factor in labor. If I remember right the sct tunners are almost 400 bucks. What's cams usually run to have installed?
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014
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It being a convertible it should alredy have sub frame connectors on it. I took my bone stock 02 covertible and put a kenne bell 2.1l intercooled kit on it. I had the stock sub frame connectors welded in. I also have UPR lower controls arms in it as well.

2002 Mustang gt conv kenne bell 10psi intercooled.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the idea. Maybe welding mine in will help a little. I'll definitely have to look into the upr control arms. It seems like a lot of people really like them.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014
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If you are looking into to taking it to the track, being a convertible and the HP you are pursuing you may need to get a 4 or 6 point rollcage. I'm not sure of the NHRA rules on the time limitations for a convertible without a rollcage but that will be the biggest hinderance at the track. Just something to think about...

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014
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I'd advise against welding the flimsy short stock connectors in place , go with Steeda or MM FLSFC's . Lower the car ~1.5" and add a centri blower as mentioned .

2000 Spring Edition ZY Mustang GT Convertible ....BBK CAI , BBK 70 MM TB , Flows , Hypertech Tuner , Vogtland 1.6" Springs , Tokico HP , MM CC plates , Steeda flsfc's , Bullitt Calipers , D/S 13" rotors , 03 Cobra Alum 17" mini-spare , Chrome Saleen 18x9/18x10 , 265/295 35 Potenza's , sequentials , rear honeycomb , smoked headlites , tint , CDC Bar , Mach chin spoiler , black bullitt fuel door , speedster tonneau .
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yllrgt View Post
I'd advise against welding the flimsy short stock connectors in place , go with Steeda or MM FLSFC's . Lower the car ~1.5" and add a centri blower as mentioned .
^ THIS, regarding the subframe connectors. The factory ones are really just floorpan stiffeners more than anything else. They're not long enough to connect the front and rear subframes of the chassis together in the first place, as the term "subframe connector" implies and even if they were they are still constructed out of some pretty thin steel which lacks the rigidity necessary to actually be effective.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information on the subframe connectors. I'll go ahead and choose an aftermarket set to have installed. I'm not sure about the NHRA rules with convertibles either buy hopefully I don't need a rollcage seeing this is still something I drive daily throughout the summer. It only has 36 thousand miles on it so I would hate to have to cage it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace1986 View Post
Thanks for the information on the subframe connectors. I'll go ahead and choose an aftermarket set to have installed. I'm not sure about the NHRA rules with convertibles either buy hopefully I don't need a rollcage seeing this is still something I drive daily throughout the summer. It only has 36 thousand miles on it so I would hate to have to cage it.
I have the same problem with getting my car on a track - as well of a lack of tracks to go to.

Did some brief looking around a few years ago, and as I recall the NHRA rules on 'verts was anything running quicker than 13.5 needed a 4 point bar. I was thinking about going out to Willow Springs Raceway earlier this summer as it's only about an hour and a half away from me, but their track rules stated that all convertibles must have a bar, regardless of e.t.

So in addition to NHRA reg's, also be sure to look up what the rules of your local track might be, as the NHRA stuff is merely a minimum governing requirement or set of guidlines, any given track may choose to be more comprehensive.

Needless to say, my next Mustang (should I be so fortunate) will be a hardtop so I don't gotta deal with that bs. Probably also will be a 5.0....


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014 Thread Starter
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I'll definitely have to look into the rules at our local track before going this summer. I took it last year but was only running 14.40's so no one said anything to me about it. Lol maybe I should just buy a hardtop as well.
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Another vote for the subframe connectors.

I had a pair of Kenny Brown subframe connectors welded into my '00 GT, which was an otherwise mostly stock coupe, and it made a major difference in how composed the car seemed in turns and on bumpy surfaces. I also credit them with keeping my car pretty much rattle-free for many many miles, which is the original reason I got them. The change in handling was just a bonus.

For a 'vert making that much power you'll probably want full length connectors; mine were not although they had a cross-brace that attached to the seat frame bolts, which tightened things up nicely. The stock ones don't have that cross-brace that I know of.

Black 2013 Mustang 5.0 MT82 w/401A package and 3.31s

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Are you doing work yourself, or do you pay someone to do it for you? A supercharger would be nice, but what is the extra power without traction? If you decide on spending the 3k on your current car instead of eventually getting a hardtop, I suggest doing suspension work. Lower it about 1.5" (I have the H&R SS springs and love them), get new shocks and struts all around, caster camber plates, new ball joints and bump steer kit, new bushings all around, lower control arms, upper control arms, thicker sway bars, and definitely subframe connectors! If money allows it, maybe add some cams and a dyno tune as well. A little thing that might help airflow would be a bigger plenum, since you already have a bigger throttle body and a CAI.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014 Thread Starter
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I have done all my work on my current and past mustangs but I have no experience with superchargers and have only done a cam swap on a 302. I've never really messed with the 4.6 and from what I read It's a lot more difficult. I'd probably give it a go though before I paid a shop lol. I'm going to take your advice and ay least start on the suspension and go from there. I was checking out the trick flow top end get for the 4.6 but I don't know if it's worth it. Tax time is approaching so I could always come up with a little more cash lol.

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1/4 mile , horse power increase , mods , mustang '00

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