My new edge GT project (a big challenge) - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-28-2015 Thread Starter
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My new edge GT project (a big challenge)

Hello fellas!. I introduce myself a while ago but didn´t have the chance to introduce you to´´Eleanor´´ my project a 01 mustang GT with mach 460 sound system, T-45... So i will share some pics, short history of the car, planned mods and as time goes on will show the progress of course with your help guys!!

The car was a Roush 2 edition. First owner sold it to a friend because of a divorce i heard. The friend was a stingy bas** and sold most of the parts like roush brake kit, side exhaust with side splitters, suspension, even the roush cluster to another guy with the same GT and put everything stock again to save a few extra $$$. After that stupid thing he hit a car in the rear but wasnt a big deal and sold it. The third owner was an old doctor pretty decent man but his son, a show off doing donuts and reckless things without any driving skills. Then one night drunk as shi** had a nasty driver side crash with a tree. One day i crossed near a paint shop and saw the car and asked the guy that was working on it if it was for sale. He said yes. So i start and verified the engine idling and was very good and smooth. The driver door and floor were parts with the most damage. ( going to post pics soon). I called the owner made him an offer based on the conditions of the car and he agreed.

Now the car has been in my hands for two years and i have planned to put all parts from Roush once more since this edition is my favorite one.

Project future mods and restoration after body and floor repairs

-Roush Cold air intake (if i can find a new one).
-Steeda underdrive pulley kit.
-MSD ignition coils
-Ford racing intake manifold (bought the dorman by mistake and i regret that).
-New oil pump
-New water pump
-BBK Shorty Headers (passenger side leak).
-Off road H pipe
-Flowmaster super 44 mufflers
-Steeda tri-ax short shifter
-Ford Racing aluminum drive shaft
-Engine Mounts (dont have a brand in mind open for suggestions)
-Ford Motorcraft Transmision Mount
-Spec stage1 clutch kit
-Spec aluminum flywheel
-Ford racing clutch fork
-Caster Camber Plates (open for suggestions)
-Full Lenght Subframe connectors (open for suggestions)
-Front and rear sway bars (open for suggestions)
-BBK strut tower brace and shock
-Steeda Chrome Moly G-Trac Brace
-Steeda X2 Ball joints
-Steeda Bumpsteer kit
-UPR upper and lower control arm kit
-Upper and lower torque box reinforcement
-Total Bushings kit (open for suggestions)
-Wiper Cowl vent
-Vortech supercharger kit (last mod i promise)

So i would like to know what u guys think about my list and what can be add or change.
I know this takes time, patience , sweat and money but when finished I'm sure will be worth the effort..

Comments/help/discussions will be very important to me and very appreciated to. Thanks!!

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-28-2015
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Looks like a great project!


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015
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Love the seats bro, and like the fact that you plan to restore it back to its Roush roots.

As far as your list goes it looks great and will be a lot of fun to build! I will give you some insights from myself on a few things.

MSD coils - Skip these they will do nothing for you, if you replace the coils the best ones for you are the OEM ones, MSD will not improve anything.

Pulleys - If you are going supercharged keep your stock pulleys or dont do pulleys at all because when adding a supercharger you will have to get rid of the aftermarket ones and use the stock. Do some research here.

Motor mounts - My stock ones were bad and I replaced with these and love them they aren't as bad as you think to replace either. If you need help with that let me know probably a 4 hour job.

Mustang Urethane Motor Mount (96-04) 4.6

Trans mount - I haven't got around to doing this yet but have heard that sticking with the stock rubber is the way to go over a urethane mount because the transmission when shifting is suppose to have a little more give then the urethane will give to give you a smoother ride.

Shifter - I have the steeda shifter and like it put if I were going to buy again I would totally get the MGW shifter because I have heard great things about them and it is a quality unit. The steeda one is too if that is what you are set on. Something I just noticed is that MGW changed the way there shifters look so maybe they are a little different then they were in the past, but like I said I am happy with my steeda unit.

https://www.mgwshifters.com/shifters/mustangs/73

Clutch - Make sure to use the OEM throw out bearing and pilot bearing when you change the clutch, also look into replacing the pivot ball because this is something that a lot of people miss and can wear out. When doing this job I also recommend that you upgrade to an adjustable clutch cable with a quadrant and firewall adjuster since you are going to an aftermarket clutch. It will give you better control over the adjustments as the clutch wears down. maximum motorsports makes the best one by far and I ordered directly from there site, they are a great company.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Cl...kage-P385.aspx

Shorty headers - I have the bbk units and honestly wouldn't waste my time again. With that the reason I did mine was because I had a leak just like what you are sayings, however mine ended up just being the donut gasket that is between the h pipe and the stock manifolds. So I could have spend 10 dollars instead of 800 to fix the leak and been done. They do change the sound a bit and make it sound better but in my opinion not 800 better.

Suspension - This is key and something I wish I had more of. UPR makes great products and our rep can help with making decisions on what would be best for your build. The torque boxes that are in your car will be perfectly fine for the power levels that you are shooting for without going forged internals (250-450 rwhp). Id suggest you skip that step till it is absolutely necessary.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-suspension.html

I hope this isn't too long and you can look through it. These are just my opinions but this should give you a good start. Welcome to the forum and this is a great bunch of people that are always willing to help. Keep the build going bro I'm excited for some updates!
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015
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Here are my insights...take them as you will. Looking forward to the updates!


Roush Cold air intake (if i can find a new one).
-Steeda underdrive pulley kit. - Do not buy this if you are going Supercharger...
-MSD ignition coils - Skip these...stay OEM as Lackey said...
-Ford racing intake manifold (bought the dorman by mistake and i regret that).
-New oil pump - Get the Melling high volume Oil Pump.
-New water pump - OEM replacement will be fine.
-BBK Shorty Headers (passenger side leak). - Go long tubes or stay stock...
-Off road H pipe - Great choice, wish I had one...
-Flowmaster super 44 mufflers - LOVE THESE!!!! Good muffler...a little droney but worth it...I'm a flowmaster groupie...
-Steeda tri-ax short shifter - MGW seems to be the best but the Steeda shifter is great too. I personally have the SR piece and it's fine (got a smoking deal on it)
-Ford Racing aluminum drive shaft
-Engine Mounts (dont have a brand in mind open for suggestions)
-Ford Motorcraft Transmision Mount
-Spec stage1 clutch kit
-Spec aluminum flywheel
-Ford racing clutch fork
-Caster Camber Plates (open for suggestions) - I have UPR CC plates and like them. MM, J&M, TeamZ will all be fine.
-Full Lenght Subframe connectors (open for suggestions) - Maximum Motorsports or Steedas...weld-ins.
-Front and rear sway bars (open for suggestions) - no opinion, this is my next suspension mod...do your research...
-BBK strut tower brace and shock - Probably do not need the shock tower brace...I have one and I don't ever drive my car to the point of it being useful; I doubt you will either...I only got to stiffen by 'vert chassis but I probably wasted $80 on it....
-Steeda Chrome Moly G-Trac Brace - Probably skip this...FLSFC are really all you need and maybe the strut tower brace
-Total Bushings kit (open for suggestions) - If you buying LCAs, UCAs, sway bars, etc then you will not need this whole kit as those come with Urethane bushings (or spherical bearings) already. Maybe just buy urethane rack bushings, and urethane front lower control arm bushings.

Good luck!!
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015 Thread Starter
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Thanks man!
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015 Thread Starter
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Lackey, Jon thank you very much for your recommendations they are very welcome.. When I get home from work I will share some pictures of the car looks like below the floor. This is the part of the project that worries me but tomorrow will visit a good body shop that my boss recommended me. Im so excited and hope i like how they work
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015
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No problem man, keep us updated and share some pictures! Everyone likes pictures lol Is the bottom side of the car damaged?

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015
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Check out the SR brand 3pt. strut tower brace. AM just raised their price on the chrome one, but either powder coat or chrome will save you a bit over the BBK or Steeda's. I think the build itself is pretty spot on with both of those.


I have one on my 02 GT vert. and along with ford b springs and Steeda Lca's I noticed a WORLD of difference in the handling. I think the STB does tighten up the steering on the car quite a bit.


Sounds like a fun project, welcome to the club.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015
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Why does it have a v6 rear bumper?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015 Thread Starter
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Because of the rear balances that Roush body kit has.. with the GT rear they will not fit properly i think... mine still have the rear balances clips attached to the bumper
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015 Thread Starter
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Yes it is.. here are some pics! Red means bad lol.. driver side of the k member is exactly 1 inch back and little lower compare to the passenger side. For that the engine is miss aligned slightly to the right... tomorrow will get a better diagnostic! looks kind of tricky lol
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I would use Long tube headers rather then shortys and i highly recommend long tube over shortys if u r going supercharged. I would get the hole k-member and suspension kit not just control arms and i wouldnt waist the money on coils. The stock coils are more then good enough. Sorry if this has already been said i didnt have time to read everyones post
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackson3010 View Post
I would use Long tube headers rather then shortys and i highly recommend long tube over shortys if u r going supercharged. I would get the hole k-member and suspension kit not just control arms and i wouldnt waist the money on coils. The stock coils are more then good enough. Sorry if this has already been said i didnt have time to read everyones post
Thanks jackson! and by using long tubes is it true a will need a handhld tuner?
and What would be a good aftermarket k member brand? i know one from upr is the chrome moly but if u can give me any other suggestions will be very helpful to thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lackey'sGT View Post
Love the seats bro, and like the fact that you plan to restore it back to its Roush roots.

As far as your list goes it looks great and will be a lot of fun to build! I will give you some insights from myself on a few things.

MSD coils - Skip these they will do nothing for you, if you replace the coils the best ones for you are the OEM ones, MSD will not improve anything.

Pulleys - If you are going supercharged keep your stock pulleys or dont do pulleys at all because when adding a supercharger you will have to get rid of the aftermarket ones and use the stock. Do some research here.

Motor mounts - My stock ones were bad and I replaced with these and love them they aren't as bad as you think to replace either. If you need help with that let me know probably a 4 hour job.

Mustang Urethane Motor Mount (96-04) 4.6

Trans mount - I haven't got around to doing this yet but have heard that sticking with the stock rubber is the way to go over a urethane mount because the transmission when shifting is suppose to have a little more give then the urethane will give to give you a smoother ride.

Shifter - I have the steeda shifter and like it put if I were going to buy again I would totally get the MGW shifter because I have heard great things about them and it is a quality unit. The steeda one is too if that is what you are set on. Something I just noticed is that MGW changed the way there shifters look so maybe they are a little different then they were in the past, but like I said I am happy with my steeda unit.

https://www.mgwshifters.com/shifters/mustangs/73

Clutch - Make sure to use the OEM throw out bearing and pilot bearing when you change the clutch, also look into replacing the pivot ball because this is something that a lot of people miss and can wear out. When doing this job I also recommend that you upgrade to an adjustable clutch cable with a quadrant and firewall adjuster since you are going to an aftermarket clutch. It will give you better control over the adjustments as the clutch wears down. maximum motorsports makes the best one by far and I ordered directly from there site, they are a great company.

Clutch Cable, Quadrant, and Firewall Adjuster Package

Shorty headers - I have the bbk units and honestly wouldn't waste my time again. With that the reason I did mine was because I had a leak just like what you are sayings, however mine ended up just being the donut gasket that is between the h pipe and the stock manifolds. So I could have spend 10 dollars instead of 800 to fix the leak and been done. They do change the sound a bit and make it sound better but in my opinion not 800 better.

Suspension - This is key and something I wish I had more of. UPR makes great products and our rep can help with making decisions on what would be best for your build. The torque boxes that are in your car will be perfectly fine for the power levels that you are shooting for without going forged internals (250-450 rwhp). Id suggest you skip that step till it is absolutely necessary.

Ford Mustang Suspension Parts at UPR - Lifetime Warranty!

I hope this isn't too long and you can look through it. These are just my opinions but this should give you a good start. Welcome to the forum and this is a great bunch of people that are always willing to help. Keep the build going bro I'm excited for some updates!
I'd hang around this guy more often.
I second the clutch info. I went through several clutch cables myself and none is worth the trouble other than the maximum motorsports clutch cable. It's far superior to the rest in my opinion. And you definitely want to change the pivot stud while down there. 25-30$ put some loctite and forget it. Ask me how I know.. you know how I know.
The reason you don't want to use the throw out bearing and pilot bearings from the clutch kits is that they are cheap and are infamous for wearing out prematurely. Ford racing provides quality bearings.

His -1996 GT- Steeda underdrive pulleys, SR CAI, SR intake spacer, SR adjustable clutch kit, SPEC stage 1 clutch, RAM steel billet flywheel,magnaflow cat back with pipes cut off after muffles( love the sound), Tokhico rear shocks, Tokhico front struts, Smoked Cobra style headlights & white tail lights for good looks.- nickname = Rolling Thunder

Hers - 1998 v6 convertible - dual exhaust, SR CAI nickname = sexy thang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lefty310 View Post
I'd hang around this guy more often.
I second the clutch info. I went through several clutch cables myself and none is worth the trouble other than the maximum motorsports clutch cable. It's far superior to the rest in my opinion. And you definitely want to change the pivot stud while down there. 25-30$ put some loctite and forget it. Ask me how I know.. you know how I know.
The reason you don't want to use the throw out bearing and pilot bearings from the clutch kits is that they are cheap and are infamous for wearing out prematurely. Ford racing provides quality bearings.
My car currently makes a squeak noise every time I press my clutch in because of that da** pivot ball and the TOB slightly makes noise at idle and it is annoying! This winter I am pulling it all out again to inspect everything and replace the pivot ball, pilot bearing, and TOB.


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