clutch time - Ford Mustang Forum
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By SoCal2V
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015 Thread Starter
LjGamer1's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 189
clutch time

clutch finally went last night. went from the usual squeaking TOB to a grindy pedal and not so good sound. at least i got it home. anyway, trying to figure out what clutch to get. i dont want too much clutch or too little and would like to know the brands you all use and trust. also do you all swap your own clutch or take it too a shop to have it done? thanks

2000 v6 mustang RED: Totaled

2002 Mustang GT Convertible SILVER:
MGW short throw shifter, 4.10 gears, Bama Performance tuner, Airaid CAI, Bassani off-raod x-pipe, Borla Stinger Catback, Athracite FR500's (275 front, 315 rear), Bilstein shocks/struts, H&R lowering springs, Maximum Motorsport cc plates, Mach 1 chin spoiler, shorty antenna,
LjGamer1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
4.6L Member
SoCal2V's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: see user name
Posts: 8,705
I've had a Spec stage 1 since about 6 years ago at 82K (now at 118K), been very happy with it and it does allow some room for growth; should handle near 400whp should I ever be so fortunate. I also used the opportunity to swap up to an aluminum flywheel as well.

Depends on how much you feel like spending and what your goals are. Be careful to stay away from getting "too much clutch"; no need for something that's rated for 550whp or whatever if you realistically know you'll never be there. Generally speaking, the higher level of performance a clutch is designed for will impact driveability. Most manufacturers "stage 2" type clutches are still quite streetable, but getting into stage 3 or more it will begin to have the engagement characteristics of something resembling an on/off switch. And since we have manually actuated (non hydraulic assist) clutches, it usually makes for a heavier pedal as well.

I don't think you can really go wrong with any of the major well known brands out there. Read plenty of reviews on AM, Latemodel and Amazon before making a choice. One that I would be super interested in next time around for myself would be the Centerforce Dual Friction. It can handle lots of power (upwards of 450-500 whp), very nice engagement characteristics and I've heard some say that pedal effort is actually less than the stock factory clutch. You're gonna pay for it though, they run around $400.

As far as shop or diy, depends really on your skills and tools. Personally, I'm sure if I had a helper in the room for a little moral support and an extra set of hands that I could get through a clutch install. But honestly without the use of a lift I really don't see myself trying to R&I a transmission while laying on my garage floor; there's only so high you can get the car jacked up and I imagine it would be quite a cramped working space that way; if we were talking about a truck or something that had more ground clearance to begin with then my answer might be different. So shop gets my vote, unless they have a flat charge for the job then expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 to 5 hours labor at whatever the going rate. That, and if it isn't quite right then it's up to them to make it right rather than you having to crawl back under there.

Additional parts.... I'm sure you've been around here long enough to be aware that use of oem (dealership parts dept) or FRPP thowout bearings are generally recommended over what is supplied in your clutch kit. The bearings from my Spec kit have held up fine (I didn't know back then) but there are numerous accounts out there of extremely premature tob failure (like anywhere from 500 to 5,000 miles in) with aftermarket bearings. Also, with any performance oriented clutch you need to get an aftermarket quadrant and firewall mounted cable adjuster setup (along with fresh cable). The plastic factory quadrant and self-adjustment mechanism just doesn't work well with aftermarket clutches, and can lead to either driveability issues or premature failure of your new clutch disc. Some people (I didn't) also elect to replace the clutch fork - sort of a "while you're in there" thing that doesn't add much additional expense. It's really only necessary to do if your current fork is bent, but you won't know that until it's all apart.

lefty310 likes this.

2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
SoCal2V is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015
PONY Member
Jackson3010's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2014
Location: Brawley
Posts: 641
Changing a clutch is ez. Almost anyone with basic mechanic skills can do it. You don't want too much or too little, well what modds do u have?
Jackson3010 is offline  
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015
BOSS Member
4.6L Member
JonR2006's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 4,990
I'll be doing my own when it finally goes out (that or the TOB...been squeaking for a year and half).

I will most likely go for an upgrade now that I'm on nitrous and would like to be able to spray off the line with decent tires. Before the nitrous I was going to get an OEM replacement from Advanced Auto and splurge on a billet steel flywheel. Socal explained it well...all depends on the use of your car and the power you plan to make in the future. I'm sure an OEM replacement will be fine. Plenty of dudes running stock clutches on 350-400whp without issues.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
JonR2006 is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015
PONY Member
lefty310's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: shafter
Posts: 337
To add to the above.
Do not forget to look at or have the pivot ball stud looked at. If it is any bit worn just replace it. I know by experience. You do NOT want to have to drop the trans just for a 25$ part that could have been tooken care of.
And for the clutch cable I highly recommended the maximum motorsports clutch cable. Very solid and more pricy than most but it's worth it. I've been through an AutoZone and an SR performance and what I believe to be a carquest cable and they all gave out quick.

And like SoCal said.. if trying to do it yourself on some jacks... It sucks man I'll be honest. I've dropped the trans with the help of a brother twice and it was just to replace the pivot stud once and then service it then next time. !make sure it has some loc-tite on it! You don't want that to come loose. I have a thread with a video link explaining what happened. By all means learn from my mistake.

Having said that I can imagine how much tougher it is to remove the clutch and heavy/sharp flywheel while on your back. There is a 4 part video on YouTube that some guys uploaded while doing this job this way and the one guy needed stitches because the flywheel fell on his face.

I also have a spec stage 1 and had a ram hdx before.. spec feels easier on the pedal and seems to grip better.

His -1996 GT- Steeda underdrive pulleys, SR CAI, SR intake spacer, SR adjustable clutch kit, SPEC stage 1 clutch, RAM steel billet flywheel,magnaflow cat back with pipes cut off after muffles( love the sound), Tokhico rear shocks, Tokhico front struts, Smoked Cobra style headlights & white tail lights for good looks.- nickname = Rolling Thunder

Hers - 1998 v6 convertible - dual exhaust, SR CAI nickname = sexy thang
lefty310 is offline  
Sponsored Links

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1