Tips, tricks, advice for new '98 GT owner ? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-20-2016 Thread Starter
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Cool Tips, tricks, advice for new '98 GT owner ?

Hello fellow enthusiasts! Please forgive me for breaking any "rules" for forums / threads ... I'm new to this spite specifically, and relatively new to the "Forum world" in general. Anyway, I'll get to the main point in this; I recently picked up my first Mustang, a laser red '98 GT Premium convertible with stick shift. I got a relatively good deal on the car (for my area), and it is 100% stock and original. I'd love to get some input on my parts list below, and see what you all think of my SN95. Some info on it ...

140,000 original miles, brand new clutch, recently had new Autolite spark plugs put in, relatively new Castrol GTX oil, new OEM airlifter, the convertible top is about one year old, has relatively new tires, the original Mach 460 sound system that sounds absolutely amazing, EVERYTHING works on the car except for the fog lights, the interior is pretty good with a small tear on the center console and two on the driver's seat. The paint has seen better days, and has sun fading here and there, with the worst being on the trunk.

I'm 17, and I'll be turning 18 in about two months. I've been around Mustang my entire life (my Dad has owned a '68, '00, '02, and currently own's an '06 that I drive on the regular). I plan on using the car as my daily driver ... taking me to and from my college classes when I start in the Fall, and my job. However, I am going to be taking it onto some local tracks (Willow Springs, Buttonwillow, Adams Motorsports Track, AAA Speedway). I'm not a big fan of drag racing like most guys with Muscle cars .... I'm more into Canyons, hill climbs, road racing, etc. So although the car isn't as fast as I'd like it to be (actually pretty slow compared to even my Dad's '06 GT), raw horsepower and torque are not what I'm going for at the moment. I'd like to give it maybe a little extra power (I'd like it maybe around 310-350 HP), but focus more on the handling and suspension for now, then move onto performance, then cosmetics.

Below is my list so far, of parts I plan on getting ...

Safety -
- Legitimate SCCA approved Roll bar
- Sparco, Momo, or Corbeu racing seats with five-point harnesses.
- Roll bar or floorpan mounted fire extinguisher.

Handling / Suspension -
- One inch Eibach lowering springs (until I can afford coil overs, I'm assuming one inchers will perform nicely for a daily and on the track).
- Bilstein or Steeda heavy duty shocks.
- Upper and lower strut tower braces
- Drilled and/or slotted front and rear brake rotors.
- Possibly Wilwood brake Calipers and Ceramic pads.
- Watts rear end link kit
- FRPP A-arms complete with bushings and balljoints.
- Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates.

Performance -
- K&N High flow cold air intake kit.
- Some sort of chip / tuner ... not sure which to go with ... possibly BAMA?
- BBK or Hooker long tube headers.
- High flow Flowmaster or Magnaflow catalytic converters.
- Possibly a resonator delete with an offered X Pipe.
- Ford Hot Rod Racing camshafts.
- High performance Cobra fuel injectors.
- E3 Spark plugs.
- GT40 heads.

And lastly, cosmetics -
- SVT Cobra front bumper.
-Aftermarket side scoops.
- Saleen wrap around spoiler.
- Gloss black tail light surrounds.
- Aluminum gas door.
- Possibly aftermarket headlights with demon eyes?
- Cowled fiberglass hood.
- New Laser Red or perhaps Race Red paint.
- FR500 wheels with a chrome lip and black spokes.

If anyone has any input, advice, tips, tricks, etc. please let me know. This is a relatively simple list I'm come up with based on what I know about the car myself, and what friends have told me.

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-20-2016
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Here is my input. Welcome. Congrats on the new car!


Safety -
- Legitimate SCCA approved Roll bar - Sure. might be expensive if you need it installed/welded.
- Sparco, Momo, or Corbeu racing seats with five-point harnesses. - Expensive but good improvement over the sucky seats.
- Roll bar or floorpan mounted fire extinguisher. - Good call. Should be in all cars.

Handling / Suspension -
- One inch Eibach lowering springs (until I can afford coil overs, I'm assuming one inchers will perform nicely for a daily and on the track). - Might as well go lower if you are getting good dampers (Bilsteins) and CC plates.
- Bilstein or Steeda heavy duty shocks. - Bilsteins if you can afford them.
- Upper and lower strut tower braces - Not sure what a "lower" brace is but even an Upped is not necessary if you get Subframe Connectors.
- Drilled and/or slotted front and rear brake rotors. - Sure.
- Possibly Wilwood brake Calipers and Ceramic pads. - Expensive...maybe start with a Cobra front brake conversion with good pads and DOT 4 fluid.
- Watts rear end link kit - Expensive. Definitely cures the 4-link suckiness.
- FRPP A-arms complete with bushings and balljoints. - Are your's shot? The OEM ones are fine unless you go to a Tubular K-Member
- Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates. - Anything MM is worth the price.
- SUBFRAMCE CONNECTORS should be the FIRST suspension mod you do, especially in a convertible.


Performance -
- K&N High flow cold air intake kit. - Save your money.
- Some sort of chip / tuner ... not sure which to go with ... possibly BAMA? - Get a tuner. Any reputable Tuner will be fine depending on the mods.
- BBK or Hooker long tube headers. - Consider a PI heads/cam/intake swap first.
- High flow Flowmaster or Magnaflow catalytic converters. - See comment above
- Possibly a resonator delete with an offered X Pipe. - We do not have resonators...how can you have an off road x pipe if you want to put high flow cats on from your above comment?
- Ford Hot Rod Racing camshafts. - Never heard of this cam on a 2V (have heard of them on the 3V..05+ GTs). See my comment above on a PI H/C/I Swap.
- High performance Cobra fuel injectors. - Not needed for the mods you want.
- E3 Spark plugs. - NOT NEEDED. Stick with OEM Copper Core plugs.
- GT40 heads. - This only applies to the older 5.0 pushrod engine. We have an OHC 4.6L 2V. See my comment on the PI H/C/I Swap.

Seems like you a kind of al over the place. If you wanted all the things done on this car that you mention you'r talking A LOT of money.

Before you get ahead of yourself..give us some more info...

What is your budget? Can you do your own work? To get 310-350Who out of a 4.6L 2V will take a bit of money....

Where are TIRES on your list, especially for AX/SCCA? Tires are THE most important mod. Where is a Short Throw Shifter (MGW)?

I did not see any mods for the Rear Lower Control arms. Those are also a MUST.

Read through this thread in its entirety: http://mustangforums.com/forum/suspe...ion-guide.html


Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016
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JonR^ pretty much summed it up.

Not sure about the 96-98' Verts, but I know the 94-95' GT verts have a crossmember under the K-member that makes installing long-tube headers impossible without some metal work.
Subframe connectors are a MUST have on convertibles.
I also recommend 3.73 rear gears.

1998 GT - CAI, trickflow 75mm intake, 3.73 gears, O/R x-pipe, flowmasters, short throw shifter, 24lb injectors. 183k miles
1995 GT vert - 1 of 36 5.0 Appx. 400,000~ factory motor miles (totaled, in garage)
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016
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Just wanted to say nice car! Those were my favorite wheels. I put some on my '94 back in the day.

2003 Mach 1 - TR3650 - Ford Performance aluminum shaft - Mac O/R H-pipe - Airbox modification - 17% tint

Gone but not forgotten:
2001 GT auto in Zinc Yellow-Flowmaster mufflers - Pypes O/R H pipe-Eibach Sportline springs/Koni STR.T shocks-AMR wheels w/ 315/35 MT Street Comps-FR 3.73s-Blankenship Performance tuning-Steeda Under-drive pulleys-BBK CAI-AcuFab 70mm TB
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