Old Yeller "rags to riches" rebuild thread - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #61 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017 Thread Starter
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Not much has happened with Ol Yeller. Right now it sits with a screwed up rear axle. I focused time and money on my truck, it needed a transmission and rear axle. That is now all done.

I did install a larger throttle body, because I caught a hell of a sale on it. I bought the BBK 78MM TB one piece assembly.



Stock versus aftermarket.


I am undecided if I rebuild my current rear end, or if I just grab a salvage stock axle. I can swap an axle, but I don't know how to rebuild one. My thought was to keep my broken one and rebuild it as time permits along with help from friends.

$400 for a stock junkyard axle with 3.27 gears. OR $365 dollars buys all the parts to regear and rebuild the axle to include the trac lok LSD.

Opinions?


01 GT "Old Yeller" rebuild in progress

94 Ext Cab Z71 5 speed. Way too many mods and way too much money spent, and still not done yet.
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If you can't do gears yourself you're looking at another $600 to have those installed. I would swap a stock axle for now from the yard and keep your current housing and build it as you go.


Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #63 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017 Thread Starter
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I stand corrected. I finally had a nice day yesterday where I could work outside and not freeze to death (because I don't have a garage).

Anyway I pulled off the damaged diff cover, and inspected the gears the best I could with a flashlight, and I found ZERO DAMAGE! Gears are in perfect shape!! So I got about half a quart of oil in the axle and some friction modifier and it moves freely.

I found no chunks of metal or anything missing from any of the spider gears, ring and pinion looked perfect. It was just dry.

The bottom edge of the diff cover had been curled up around the bottom of the lower bolt. I installed a new chrome cover from summit racing (cause it was the cheapest), and a new gasket.

I had to turn the car around to put the front on ramps in order to attempt further filling of the axle. I have another nice day today, so I hope I get it all finished up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr cribb View Post
I stand corrected. I finally had a nice day yesterday where I could work outside and not freeze to death (because I don't have a garage).

Anyway I pulled off the damaged diff cover, and inspected the gears the best I could with a flashlight, and I found ZERO DAMAGE! Gears are in perfect shape!! So I got about half a quart of oil in the axle and some friction modifier and it moves freely.

I found no chunks of metal or anything missing from any of the spider gears, ring and pinion looked perfect. It was just dry.

The bottom edge of the diff cover had been curled up around the bottom of the lower bolt. I installed a new chrome cover from summit racing (cause it was the cheapest), and a new gasket.

I had to turn the car around to put the front on ramps in order to attempt further filling of the axle. I have another nice day today, so I hope I get it all finished up.
That saves you some money! Good to hear man.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #65 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017 Thread Starter
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Ok so after filling the rear axle with fresh fluid and a new cover, the axle is still junk. I am speculating a pinion bearing is toast. I took a video of it making racket and presented it to my axle and transmission guy, he agreed that it sounds like a pinion bearing and not to drive it (duh).

I asked what his labor charge is to do the rebuild, I supply the parts, he told me $200. Needless to say I am going to use him, he is ASE certified and OCD about doing stuff right the first time.

I have driven this car a total of 4.5 miles since buying it, I am pretty frustrated at this point. I am just going to pull the trigger and buy some 3.73's and be done with it. I might put in an aluminum driveshaft as well, that would take care of u joints, or is that a really dumb idea on a stock car? Obviously just buying u joints are waaaay cheaper, but is there an advantage to buying an aluminum drive shaft?

01 GT "Old Yeller" rebuild in progress

94 Ext Cab Z71 5 speed. Way too many mods and way too much money spent, and still not done yet.
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An aluminum driveshaft would be nice...but I don't know if you notice any difference. It is less rotating mass and will essentially free up some HP but I'm not sure how noticeable it would be. If you can swing it do it...I'll eventually have one too but not until I've exhausted all possible mods and upgrades (which is close for me anyway).

Consider 4.10s you won't regret it!

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #67 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017 Thread Starter
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I got the car up on jack stands today to investigate the noise further. I pulled down the drive shaft and found the u joints were straight garbage. I got them replaced and tried again after new u joints, and confirmed that it's definitely the pinion bearing. It has too much slop in it.

Right now I've listed it for sale. I'm just done with the heartbreak. I can't justify spending another thousand dollars in the rear end in a car that doesn't have a great resale value to begin with.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr cribb View Post
I got the car up on jack stands today to investigate the noise further. I pulled down the drive shaft and found the u joints were straight garbage. I got them replaced and tried again after new u joints, and confirmed that it's definitely the pinion bearing. It has too much slop in it.

Right now I've listed it for sale. I'm just done with the heartbreak. I can't justify spending another thousand dollars in the rear end in a car that doesn't have a great resale value to begin with.
Another one bites the dust.....

Sorry to hear man. You win some and you lose some...Hopefully you don't lose too much money on it.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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At least you can look at it as a learning experience, tearing down a car and examining a differential

Retired but not forgotten
2014 Mustang V6 Performance Pack, Airaid CAI, Automatic 3.31
stock 0-60: 5.8 seconds
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post #70 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cem Sengul View Post
At least you can look at it as a learning experience, tearing down a car and examining a differential
This is true. A guy called me today on the car, and seemed highly interested. He asked all the right questions one would ask when interested in a car. He said he used to have a yellow mustang and wanted another.

I have it listed at $2,500. I have right around $2,350 in it including buying the car.
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