Tubular K-members? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016 Thread Starter
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I was hoping to do it for engine bay clearance, as I have long tubes and they are a pain to work around. And the fact that I'd be losing 20lbs or so on top of my Teksid block swap was just a bonus.

I've got some more researching to do about solid mounts tearing up the chassis. It sounds like the AJE will be plug and play as long as I don't mind solid engine mounts. And the UPR "should" be plug and play, but it likely won't be due to fitment issues.

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Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Your thread got me to thinking about the k-member as a next mod for my '95. It was slow at work today so I did a lot of k-member googling and there are tons of threads out there about tubular k-members pros and cons and such. I was thinking about this mod primarily for weight savings and for some of them the price isn't bad. But I think I'm going to pass on this one. It seems like the stock ones weighs around 45 lbs and the tubulars are weight between 20ish-30ish pounds so the weight difference isn't all that much if one was to use stock a-arms and springs. It's when you use a tubular k, tubular arms, new spindles and coilovers is when the big weight is reduced. Also it seems like there are a lot of "hidden cost" thrown in there. Some k members might move the wheelbase this way or that way, so you need to do this or that to correct it and other issues that seemed more of a hassle and more expensive than it's worth for a non track car. I dunno something over my head about the geometry with the stock a-arms on tubular k members and or bumpsteer. It didn't sound as plug and play as I was hoping.


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Stock K-member weighs 65lbs. I still have mine and I put it on the scale to verify.


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Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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Originally Posted by Screaming04Gt View Post
I was hoping to do it for engine bay clearance, as I have long tubes and they are a pain to work around. And the fact that I'd be losing 20lbs or so on top of my Teksid block swap was just a bonus.

I've got some more researching to do about solid mounts tearing up the chassis. It sounds like the AJE will be plug and play as long as I don't mind solid engine mounts. And the UPR "should" be plug and play, but it likely won't be due to fitment issues.

Consider the QA1 before UPR. Ive heard good things about that k-member. Although, I always thought qa1 and upr were the same, people have better luck getting the qa1 to fit correctly.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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I will be going with the PA Racing K member when bonus and tax return comes in. I'll keep my stock a arms and spring setup...total will be $570 for a Chromoly unit. I'll do a arms and coilovers later...I will also be doing torque box reinforcements at the same time.

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Question for whoever can answer it...

Do aftermarket K members tend to be more or less rigid than stock? This is something thats ony list but definitely a ways out, lots of other stuff to do first. I understand that for track use they are great, but if chassis rigidity were compromised then that really would make me think twice. Streets are not nice and smooth as tracks (SoCal freeways can be downright horrible) so handling is a concern. Of greater concern is how one of these might hold up in a collision.


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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016 Thread Starter
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I think the QA1 is out for me. It pushes your front end forward 2" and it sounds like it causes interference with the fenders on lowered cars. All the reviews also say it's a pain to get the stock a-arms to fit.

The PA Racing one looks promising though
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Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
Question for whoever can answer it...

Do aftermarket K members tend to be more or less rigid than stock? This is something thats ony list but definitely a ways out, lots of other stuff to do first. I understand that for track use they are great, but if chassis rigidity were compromised then that really would make me think twice. Streets are not nice and smooth as tracks (SoCal freeways can be downright horrible) so handling is a concern. Of greater concern is how one of these might hold up in a collision.
Im pretty sure the tubular k-members are more rigid than stock. With the exception of the convertible x brace under there. I understand that once you get rid of the x brace you notice more vibration in the cowl area.

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Originally Posted by Screaming04Gt View Post
I think the QA1 is out for me. It pushes your front end forward 2" and it sounds like it causes interference with the fenders on lowered cars. All the reviews also say it's a pain to get the stock a-arms to fit.

The PA Racing one looks promising though
Bummer. I didnt know QA1 moved wheel base. Sorry about that.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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