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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016 Thread Starter
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Tubular K-members?

Hey guys, I'll be pulling the engine in my 04 GT soon and I'm thinking about swapping to a new k member while I'm in there. I'm not wanting to go to coilovers right now, so I'm looking at the ones that can use the stock a-arms. The UPR and AJE Racing k members are what I'm between now. The UPR is around $350 and the AJE is around $300 plus spring perches and motor mounts, so like $400 altogether.

I've heard better things about the AJE, but I've noticed that they only offer solid motor mounts with it, instead of stock style that the UPR uses. My car is my daily in nice weather, would the solid mounts be terrible? I am coming from a lifted 92 Wrangler, so harsh ride and vibration don't really bother me.

Also of concern is the steering rack. Do any modifications need to be made, or will mine bolt right to these k members? My car is lowered 1.5"ish if that matters.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016
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If you can, I would stay away from UPR. I had a lot of problems installing mine.

Solid engine mounts are no problem. Ive got about 200 miles on mine and they just feel more connected. There is a little more nvh but nothing too bad. Youre steering rack should bolt right up unless otherwise stated by the company.


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Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016 Thread Starter
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What problems did you have with the UPR? I've seen they're very hit or miss. Would you have any other recommendations in the $3-400 range that can use stock a-arms?

Also, do I have to worry about solid motor mounts destroying anything? I've heard they can transfer all the energy to the k member mounting points on the unibody and cause damage. Is that something to worry about with the 320-340rwhp I'll be making?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016
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Tubular K-members?

I was looking at this one and it says you can reuse the stock control arms but then it says if you want to use factory style springs you have to buy X control arm and if you want to use coil overs you have to buy Y control arms. I don't get it, why does it say you can reuse factory arms but then it states otherwise. If stock springs won't work with factory arms on this k member and coil overs won't work with the stoc arms, what will? Confusing.. Is this a good buy or is it crap?
*AJE Suspension K-Member can reuse the factory lower control arms

With the correct motor mounts and lower control arms you can use various different engines with this k-member. Everything from small block and modular Fords to even Brand X can be used.

If youíre looking to reuse the factory style front springs you must use (LCA99) or (LCA103) Lower control arms with spring Cups. When buying the lower control arms with spring cups you will have to purchase (HW3261) Upper Spring Perches. If youíre using AJE Coil over Kit you will need to purchase AJE Coil over Lower Control arms (LCA98) or (LCA102).

*Must use AJE Suspension motor mounts.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/aje-suspe...FUk6gQodcv8F3g


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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016 Thread Starter
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That's the exact AJE I was looking at. I think it's saying if you want tubular a-arms and stock spring setup, you'll need to use theirs. Otherwise the stock ones work fine, as long as you use their upper spring perches. That's based on the researching I've been doing. CJ Pony Parts is running them on sale right now and tempting me hardcore
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016
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I think you are on the right track Screaming. I would use the AJE any day before getting another UPR.

Now as far as solid mounts, I know a bunch of people using solid mounts and they have never had an issue.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016
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I know a lot of people have had great luck with the QA1 k-member, but I dont know anyone personally.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016
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Tubular K-members?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming04Gt View Post
That's the exact AJE I was looking at. I think it's saying if you want tubular a-arms and stock spring setup, you'll need to use theirs. Otherwise the stock ones work fine, as long as you use their upper spring perches. That's based on the researching I've been doing. CJ Pony Parts is running them on sale right now and tempting me hardcore

Ahh ok thanks. Yeah that's not a bad price if it lines up and one could reuse their old suspension parts save upper spring perch. I don't really want to have to get new springs and struts, mine aren't that old.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016
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MM Solid mounts here, on a DD...I noticed more NVH right after I put them on but it's normal now...my exhaust and suspension are more annoying and punishing than the solid mounts.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016 Thread Starter
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So it sounds like the AJE is the way to go here then? Any downsides to running the tubular K?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screaming04Gt View Post
So it sounds like the AJE is the way to go here then? Any downsides to running the tubular K?
No downsides...more room, less weight, more rigid...what's not to like!

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

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1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

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Solid engine mounts are not a good idea for any street driven vehicle.......the mounts are designed to absorb stress loads that "tear/damage" components including the chassis up.
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What can be damaged by solid engine mounts? I know a lot of people running solid mounts that have no issues. I have them in mine but only currently have 200 miles on them.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwarrior1016 View Post
What can be damaged by solid engine mounts? I know a lot of people running solid mounts that have no issues. I have them in mine but only currently have 200 miles on them.
These are vibration isolation devices.....constant vibrations at certain levels/frequencies travel and "land' on certain components...the engineers know exactly which ones. Damage areas may include.......all body chassis mount locations, frame rails (if so equipped), firewalls, and could be weld locations, flex locations....if you look at "real Race cars' that have solid mounts, look at where they have reinforced areas or made repairs.....granted, they are seeing things are in essence, speeded up in time as compared to a street car.I have personally seen front clip assemblies that after a few years in normal street use have frame cracks, & structural issues 9including hairline cracks) that are beyond belief.

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Tubular K-members?

Your thread got me to thinking about the k-member as a next mod for my '95. It was slow at work today so I did a lot of k-member googling and there are tons of threads out there about tubular k-members pros and cons and such. I was thinking about this mod primarily for weight savings and for some of them the price isn't bad. But I think I'm going to pass on this one. It seems like the stock ones weighs around 45 lbs and the tubulars are weight between 20ish-30ish pounds so the weight difference isn't all that much if one was to use stock a-arms and springs. It's when you use a tubular k, tubular arms, new spindles and coilovers is when the big weight is reduced. Also it seems like there are a lot of "hidden cost" thrown in there. Some k members might move the wheelbase this way or that way, so you need to do this or that to correct it and other issues that seemed more of a hassle and more expensive than it's worth for a non track car. I dunno something over my head about the geometry with the stock a-arms on tubular k members and or bumpsteer. It didn't sound as plug and play as I was hoping.


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