New daily driver- w00t! 01 GT - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017 Thread Starter
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New daily driver- w00t! 01 GT

So, I'm picking up an 01 GT with 200k miles. CEL is on, an O2 sensor is out. The fuel float has a pinhole so it sank and shows empty. So, I'll replace the upstream O2s, delete the cats, install a MIL and a BBK H-pipe like my 96 Mystic Cobra. And of course, replace the fuel pump and sending unit.

Now the fun begins; 1 cylinder is down to 50lbs; just shot my wad on my F150 so, wait for it....does "Restore" really work? I recall also a pellet that you could drop in to help compression. Goal is to drive it around here until I can find a 3v to build and drop in.

)1- what mods are out there; what's the best bang for the buck? Looking at plenum, TB, CAI.
)2- Ease of dropping a 3V into her?

TIA!



2013 F150 FX4 SuperCrew ■ 5.0 ■ Daily Driver
1988 Mustang LX DropTop ■ 5.0*■ In Progress
2001 Mustang GT ■ 4.6L SOHC ■ Daily Driver ■ SOLD
1996 Mustang Cobra ■ #1287 ■ 4.6L 32V ■ SOLD
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 ■ 5.0L ■ SOLD
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017
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With only 50 psi on #1, the only thing that's gonna work is mechanical repair. They don't make a snake oil that is effective with that sort of problem. It would be worth your while to follow up your compression test with a leak down test though, just to pinpoint the loss of compression before committing to a full rebuild or buying a used engine to drop in. Ya never know, could be a valve or head gasket issue, either of which would be more simple and less expensive than a full rebuild. Although keep in mind that you could always try to find a used 2V with less miles and drop that in and be done with it, these engines can usually be found for $1K or less depending on condition.

As far as 3V swap, it can be done but I'm not sure that means it should be done. You would need an '05+ PCM to run it and there would be a million other mostly electronic related hurdles to overcome. Search the forums here and elsewhere.... You will find that literally nobody is running a 3V in an SN95. Reason why is it's a ton of work and not really worth it.



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And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017 Thread Starter
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Thanks, agreed about the snake oil, and I stand corrected, downstream since we have no emissions testing here in AZ. It's a New edge, my 96 Cobra is an SN95... There's always a 5.4 32 valve option!
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017
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With a 5.4 swap you run into the same electronic/PCM compatibility issues.
Since there is a compression issue it would be a good opportunity to refresh the engine from top to bottom. If the block is salvageable, you can sell it for a few hundred bucks and get you a 3.7" big bore block. Pair that with a stroker crank and you have yourself a 5.3L engine that can work with stock electronics. While you have everything apart you can go through the timing & valvetrain components and get another 200k out of the motor with new parts.


But in all honesty, if you haven't bought this car yet I would walk away and find something else, unless you're looking to start a project.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017 Thread Starter
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Thanks 40th GT....but for $500, can I really go wrong? This would be car #73 in my lifetime...meticulously maintained. Need something to save my Mystic...
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2013 F150 FX4 SuperCrew ■ 5.0 ■ Daily Driver
1988 Mustang LX DropTop ■ 5.0*■ In Progress
2001 Mustang GT ■ 4.6L SOHC ■ Daily Driver ■ SOLD
1996 Mustang Cobra ■ #1287 ■ 4.6L 32V ■ SOLD
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 ■ 5.0L ■ SOLD
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017
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I guess it just depends on your budget and goals. If I were hot rodding it I would go the bore & stroke route so I can keep the stock electronics and drivetrain. Bolt ons on a 4.6 2v are a waste of money unless you're bolting on a supercharger.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017 Thread Starter
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Well, with the number of these kits available for sale on CL, and other sites, I'll probably build a nice sturdy 2v and add one...keep it streetable.
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2013 F150 FX4 SuperCrew ■ 5.0 ■ Daily Driver
1988 Mustang LX DropTop ■ 5.0*■ In Progress
2001 Mustang GT ■ 4.6L SOHC ■ Daily Driver ■ SOLD
1996 Mustang Cobra ■ #1287 ■ 4.6L 32V ■ SOLD
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 ■ 5.0L ■ SOLD
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017 Thread Starter
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Well, picked her, and had 3 trouble codes. Cyl 5 misfire, IAT ckt failure, Bank1 Sensor 2 ckt failure. Connected the IAT sensor, cleared the codes.

Bye-bye cats, hello MIL(F) and BBK h-pipe. Cyl 5 may be down to 50 lbs, but damn, this thing runs wicked!!!!

TC light illuminated, Bosch TCECM failure as I found out through searching. Can of Restore in the oil, Seafoam in the tank with 100 octane. Quite pleased with $500 01 GT!!!!! And a trunk full of extra parts!!!

This 2 valve rocks....not as well as my '96 Cobra, but damn impressive!
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2013 F150 FX4 SuperCrew ■ 5.0 ■ Daily Driver
1988 Mustang LX DropTop ■ 5.0*■ In Progress
2001 Mustang GT ■ 4.6L SOHC ■ Daily Driver ■ SOLD
1996 Mustang Cobra ■ #1287 ■ 4.6L 32V ■ SOLD
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 ■ 5.0L ■ SOLD
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017
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Congrats! Now on to some headlight assemblies and Mach 1 Grill Delete/chin Spoiler I love that red (of course I'm pretty biased).

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017 Thread Starter
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TY JonR, faded in spots but oh yeah, you read my mind. 206,XXX on the clock and she lights up the rears.... :-) The more serious issue of Cyl 5; plugs haven't been changed in some time so that's on the list. I'll dump the Restore when I get back to AZ and switch to 5W-30 high mileage....rear main drops earl on occasion. But damn, got new pads (HQ) front/rear in the trunk, 2 extra sets of tail lights, 2 complete window regulators with motors... Although I see Ford got cheap in the radiator department again...damn, my 74 Cougar XR7 had a thin radiator!
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2013 F150 FX4 SuperCrew ■ 5.0 ■ Daily Driver
1988 Mustang LX DropTop ■ 5.0*■ In Progress
2001 Mustang GT ■ 4.6L SOHC ■ Daily Driver ■ SOLD
1996 Mustang Cobra ■ #1287 ■ 4.6L 32V ■ SOLD
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 ■ 5.0L ■ SOLD
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Our radiators are actually decent. Mine is (I assume anyway) 180k miles old, keeps my engine at 180-190 with my 180 T-stat.

Definitely recommend running 5w30 in these engines. I run 7qts personally...some run 6-6.5wts.

Plugs, I recommend Autolite 764s gapped at .045. Factory gap is .054 but close it up a tad.

Nice looking car though! Looks very clean outside.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017 Thread Starter
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@JonR2006 - You run coppers? and radiators, I mean it appears thin; my 96 Cobra had a TSB for cars here in the Southwest where it gets warm. The 2 PO's didn't get the message; replaced the radiator (Howe Racing 4 rom), ditched the single 19" fan for dual SPAL 11" ers. The condenser is too dense, doesn't allow the airflow it needed.

"Its a TSB not a recall, TSB 96-25-12 severe duty cooling system kit. It includes a larger radiator, larger cooling fan, a revised A/C condenser"

Look at the density difference. I'm trying to find the right condenser for the Mystic Cobra....it's a hand assembled Teskid 32v and the heat scare the bejesus outta me...
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2013 F150 FX4 SuperCrew ■ 5.0 ■ Daily Driver
1988 Mustang LX DropTop ■ 5.0*■ In Progress
2001 Mustang GT ■ 4.6L SOHC ■ Daily Driver ■ SOLD
1996 Mustang Cobra ■ #1287 ■ 4.6L 32V ■ SOLD
1989 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 ■ 5.0L ■ SOLD
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Yes, I run copper plugs all the time. I change them every year because I get bored and they are so cheap. They don't last a long but 30-50k miles isn't unheard of on longevity for copper plugs. I always hear the 30k mile mark being thrown around but I'm sure they last longer than that.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017 Thread Starter
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Fuel pump/sending unit. Constant low fuel lite and on E. Looking at Rockauto....Delphi, Airtex Bosch, Precise, Autobest, Carter or TYC? Put a Delphi in my F150. Who's used any of these and did they work? Looks like a bunch of crap aside from the Delphi, Bosch and Carter. TY!
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I run coppers as well, Autolite 764's.

Copper is actually a superior conductor of current vs platinum etc. The main reason that modern cars are equipped with platinum etc plugs has to do with service life. As Jon mentioned, copper plugs are generally considered good for 30K - although I've personally gotten about 50 or 60K out of a set on my '08 Explorer; install gap set at .052" and when removed later observed gaps all at no more than .058" which imo was an awesome service life for ANY plug. Platinum etc plugs can generally be run 75 - 100K. Which ensures dealer service departments won't have to deal with them as a warranty related issue.

And hard to argue with the price as well. They run about $2 per. At that price you can afford to deal with them any time you get bored. On my Mustang I set gap at .048" with these plugs, on my other vehicles I set gap at the "small" end of the spec'd range.



2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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