Approx Performance and HP of car I just purchased - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017 Thread Starter
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Approx Performance and HP of car I just purchased

Hi,

New to the forum. Just picked up a 2004 40th Anniv Mustang GT Convert with the following upgrades:

Steeda CAI

Steeda Intake

Steeda UD Pullies

Tune

Steeda High Flow Side Exhaust

3.73 gear upgrade.

What do you think this car has for HP and performance over stock? Just asking. It sounds awesome.

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2004 40th Anniversary Steeda Mustang GT Convertible - Steeda CAI/Intake, Steeda UDP, 3.73,Steeda Side Hi-Flow Exhaust, Tune, Steeda Susp[/SIZE]
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017
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Stock is 260h at the crank (225whp). Those additions maybe added 15 crank, so your to 275h at the crank so maybe 235wh. It's not much faster than a stock mustang.

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2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017
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With tires and a ton of driver mod and storybook track conditions, it'll run a 13.7 or so at the track. These cars just seem to have a way of feeling a little faster and more powerful than they are. Which isn't a bad thing, just keep it in mind the next time you try to nail it from a stoplight and it doesn't put quite the gap you expected between you and the other guy.
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2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017 Thread Starter
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Im just going to cruise with it anyway and drop the top. I bought it because of the condition and the relatively low cost compared to my Porsche and other cars Ive had. Cheap money, big fun. Im going to use this to drive to work and stuff and just enjoy it. I have other cars and vehicles too but I couldn't turn down a mint car with 9400 miles and most of the mods I would do for such cheap money.

2004 40th Anniversary Steeda Mustang GT Convertible - Steeda CAI/Intake, Steeda UDP, 3.73,Steeda Side Hi-Flow Exhaust, Tune, Steeda Susp[/SIZE]
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrebot View Post
Hi,

New to the forum. Just picked up a 2004 40th Anniv Mustang GT Convert with the following upgrades:

Steeda CAI

Steeda Intake

Steeda UD Pullies

Tune

Steeda High Flow Side Exhaust

3.73 gear upgrade.

What do you think this car has for HP and performance over stock? Just asking. It sounds awesome.
The pullies and the rar won't increase your hp/tq but both WILL provide improvements (the ud's freeing up some hp the rar change getting the motor into the powerband faster). The tune and the cai/plenum gained you hp and tq but the amounts (and gains across the rpm range) can depend on the stock motors cam phasing - presuming it wasn't custom tuned on a dyno or remotely using datalogging and is simply steeda's box tune. The exhaust nets you sound only presuming stock mufflers and cats. I think JonR might be a tad conservative in the gain ESPECIALLY if it was custom tuned (if not it could be better than he estimated or it could be worse). The pullies tune/intake and rar change will definitely get you out in front of a stock car (or a mildly modified one)

There is so much slop in the cams from the factory that a standard "box" tune - when its not adjusted to the vehicle either on a dyno or via datalogging - is hit or miss. One guy will tell you it was great and show you how it knocked time off his et and increased his mph through the traps . . . and an identical guy will show you it didn't make his car faster and might have even slowed it down.

SoCal2v is right, it makes alot of noise and production on the takeoff . . . but you find alot of otherwise stock stuff keeping up on the street.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrebot View Post
Im just going to cruise with it anyway and drop the top. I bought it because of the condition and the relatively low cost compared to my Porsche and other cars Ive had. Cheap money, big fun. Im going to use this to drive to work and stuff and just enjoy it. I have other cars and vehicles too but I couldn't turn down a mint car with 9400 miles and most of the mods I would do for such cheap money.
9,400 miles? Are they original? I hope you have better luck then I did with the one I picked up this past year with just over 12,000 miles. I had some hiccups when I first purchased. Good luck and nice find!

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2018 Honda Civic Type R
Past Mustangs in order and color of text.
(1.)2000, (2.)2004, (3.)2006GT/Auto traded for (4.)2006GT/Manual, (5.)1996, (6.)2011GT, (7.)2003GT, (8.)2006GT, (9)2013 Boss 302, and (10.) 2002GT
(I have owned a few non Mustang cars over the years as well, but always try to have a Mustang with it or come quickly back to a Mustang!)
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dB Racing View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrebot View Post
Hi,

New to the forum. Just picked up a 2004 40th Anniv Mustang GT Convert with the following upgrades:

Steeda CAI

Steeda Intake

Steeda UD Pullies

Tune

Steeda High Flow Side Exhaust

3.73 gear upgrade.

What do you think this car has for HP and performance over stock? Just asking. It sounds awesome.
The pullies and the rar won't increase your hp/tq but both WILL provide improvements (the ud's freeing up some hp the rar change getting the motor into the powerband faster). The tune and the cai/plenum gained you hp and tq but the amounts (and gains across the rpm range) can depend on the stock motors cam phasing - presuming it wasn't custom tuned on a dyno or remotely using datalogging and is simply steeda's box tune. The exhaust nets you sound only presuming stock mufflers and cats. I think JonR might be a tad conservative in the gain ESPECIALLY if it was custom tuned (if not it could be better than he estimated or it could be worse). The pullies tune/intake and rar change will definitely get you out in front of a stock car (or a mildly modified one)

There is so much slop in the cams from the factory that a standard "box" tune - when its not adjusted to the vehicle either on a dyno or via datalogging - is hit or miss. One guy will tell you it was great and show you how it knocked time off his et and increased his mph through the traps . . . and an identical guy will show you it didn't make his car faster and might have even slowed it down.

SoCal2v is right, it makes alot of noise and production on the takeoff . . . but you find alot of otherwise stock stuff keeping up on the street.
I don't think there's enough "slop" in the factory "tune" as a whole to gain much at all really with stock and bolt-on parts. Even if it was datalogged I bet the bulk of the "tuning" would be timing advance.
I can't fathom much more needing to fuel being added via a tune w those mods. The stock "tune" would've been able to compensate for the minute amount of "extra" air that has been added.
I think JonR might be on the money. He's in the ballpark at least.
You might want to look into getting a higher amp alternator to go along with those under drive pulleys. If your head lights and dash lights are dim, the larger alt will help.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2017
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I don't think there's enough "slop" in the factory "tune" as a whole to gain much at all really with stock and bolt-on parts. Even if it was datalogged I bet the bulk of the "tuning" would be timing advance. "
As for the slop, I'm not talking about the tune, I'm talking about the cams/valvetrain. See below.

The factory tune is the factory tune/strategy. Similarly, a vendor's (like bama which gets the bulk of the bashing from what I've seen) "box" or "canned" tune is that tune/strategy. Identical between cars and handhelds.
BOTH are written to be safe under all fuel/atmospheric conditions with the stock tune overly concerned with nvh and emissions, where (one would hope) the vendor tune is optimized for performance with only passing reference to the emissions parameters (and maybe with some of them literally turned off to make that happen).

I know most everyone posting in this thread knows all this, but people reading don't always.

And we DO have to remember we're talking about double or single-digit differences. At the low end likely within the range-of-error for a dyno anyway. That said:

What I was saying was that depending on whether the strategy/tune had been modified for the particular vehicle (either on a dyno or datalogging) its near impossible to guess or predict:
1) what the ultimately peak (number) gain is/was; and
2) what the tune did to the drivability/power/performance (typically measured by repeatable/averaged 60foot, 1/8m, 1/4m, and trap speed -- for road race guys its certain sector times and the mph at certain spots on track that are differentiated for the most part solely on engine power).

The difference between a canned/box tune and one customized for the vehicle (even with just bolt-ons) CAN - not always, but CAN - be night and day. Noticeable by ANYONES butt-meter and patently obvious on a time slip. It should ALWAYS be measurably better unless the tuner is a hack.

The primary reason for this is that even a canned performance tune is generic and conservative. Less so than the stock tune, but a proper tuner can do two things: 1) push the boundry/edge knowing more about the vehicle/situation; 2) identify how FAR they can push the tune given those parameters; and 3) identify whether modifications to the spark and fuel table that might be counterintuitive might work on that particular vehicle and produce a fatter powerband. A good tuner isn't JUST tuning to give you a big peak number - what he's doing is taking (typically) HIS baseline tune and tweaking it given the unique motor.

As for my valvetrain "slop" comments . . . you can have cams in these motors that can be more than a degree advanced or retarded (installed without intention or knowledge of this change). AND WORSE this can be different from side to side, so you can have one bank advanced a degree and one bank retarded a degree (or more maybe). Both cams advanced or retarded has an effect on the powerband - a DEMONSTRABLE, OBVIOUS (predictable) effect that you can see when graphed and feel from one identical mustang to the next. Even more interesting, through tuning, I can take advantage of this cam phasing change (whether its more tq or more hp depending on advanced or retarded) AND both maximize AND do a little compensation BC the "edges" are moved from where they would be if everything was straight up.

This, in my view, explains why you have two guys with identical cars and identical mods who buy that same boxed tune and one guy can prove it helped with dyno graphs and time slips and one guy says it sucks and can prove it with dyno graphs and time slips after switching back.

I know I'm shilling for custom tuning (whether on the dyno or remote datalogged) but I'm not in the business, just saying.

Quote:
I think JonR might be on the money. He's in the ballpark at least.
I agree. I just thought I'd give the op a little pleasant thought: if it was customized JonR could be low, and if his car happened to be a factory freak (in other words either equally advanced or retarded), similarly, even the box tune could have made a bigger improvement and it might be faster off the line, or better in the top-end charge, than stock.

Of course, he could have out of phase cams, and a factory freak gt with a stock tune might walk him . . . along with the euro sedan in the next lane

Hey, not meaning to start an argument on Christmas btw. Happy Holidays everyone!
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Renegade Racing 4.6 SOHC: Cobra Crank, Manley Rods, Coated Diamond Pistons 10.75:1 comp w/valve reliefs, PnP CNCd NPI heads, PI intake, Comp Cams 262ah, Ferrea Valves, 70mm TB, TrickFlow, BBK LT o/r X, SCT, Exedy, FRPP 4.10 rar
2001 GT
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018 Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info and help.

2004 40th Anniversary Steeda Mustang GT Convertible - Steeda CAI/Intake, Steeda UDP, 3.73,Steeda Side Hi-Flow Exhaust, Tune, Steeda Susp[/SIZE]
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I had nearly identical mods on my 2001 and it made 260 HP at the wheels and 300 lbs/ft of torque. That's roughly 305/350 at the crank. Yours is a stick shift, so your numbers should be higher.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I just like the color, condition, miles and mods already done on the car. He spent over 6k in steeda and upgrade options plus labor to install by a ford tech's labor to do the work at the dealer. Nice cruiser for cheap money while my girls are in college.
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2004 40th Anniversary Steeda Mustang GT Convertible - Steeda CAI/Intake, Steeda UDP, 3.73,Steeda Side Hi-Flow Exhaust, Tune, Steeda Susp[/SIZE]
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