Injectors are out. Should I replace them or clean them? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-14-2018 Thread Starter
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Injectors are out. Should I replace them or clean them?

Hi all. I'm pulling the heads off my '96 Cobra to fix a blown-out spark-plug hole. Pulled the fuel rail and injectors yesterday, and I'm thinking that at 160K miles I should probably replace the injectors. Anybody have a different opinion?

I'm not going to spend a bunch of money to "upgrade" them, so what replacements do people recommend? The car is NA and will probably stay that way. I can't find new OEM injectors.

Or should I get a rebuild kit and do that instead? I did order a kit with new filters and O-rings for the heck of it. I guess if the prevailing opinion is to keep them, I'll get an ultrasonic cleaner.

Thanks for any insight!

Gavin

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018
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Here’s some motorcrafts, kinda pricey though. The part number is CM4778. Might find them cheaper if you shop around.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../ford/mustang?

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks.

That price is laughable! WTF, over $600!

As if.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018
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I have had great luck with InjectorRX.com. Once cleaned and flow tested they are as good as new but cheaper.

Cleaning the fuel injectors is something that I believe in as a part of every major motor project that I do.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018
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Send them out for a bench cleaning service as mentioned above, or assuming everything was fine before you pulled them then just go ahead and reinstall and send a bottle or two of Techron through them.


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018
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Pulling heads on a Cobra is a lot of work, can't fix it on the car? 160K I would be seriously thinking of a timing chain kit and a head refresh if they come off, course money and time are the controlling factors.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018
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Well, if the injectors are operating fine, dirt buildup is the main issue with them....have them bench serviced (typically about $20-$25 each).....if there is no service close by, then I would put them back in with new o-rings, but I will also say that you can buy new oem MC for about $30 each at Rock Auto.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks all.

No, I can't do the repair with the head on. It had a previous, shoddy repair done (I have a thread here about it but all the pictures have gone offline) and I have to get rid of helicoil fragments and then put a Time-Sert in. There's debris in the cylinder that I have to remove, too.

What is a "head refresh?" Valve servicing and whatnot? I wasn't going to do any of that; just remove what I need to in order to do the work.

I've read that you can put 2001 heads on with a matching manifold, but no one was able to give me a detailed list of what needs to be done for that.

I'm thinking I could make an injector testor with a pump and an Arduino to pulse the injector. Yeah, because that's a good use of my time while my engine's half-dismantled!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neuron View Post
course money and time are the controlling factors.
Never enough of either.
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Walmart has the motorcrafts for $50.66.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraf...&wl13=&veh=sem
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link, but $400 is more than I'm willing to spend on these.

All the EV6 injectors I see look way longer than the EV1s. I can't tell if they look longer simply because they're skinnier. Can I use EV6s with a connector adapter? If they're longer, I'm concerned that they will raise the fuel rail into a position that interferes with other stuff.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stokestack View Post
Thanks for the link, but $400 is more than I'm willing to spend on these.

All the EV6 injectors I see look way longer than the EV1s. I can't tell if they look longer simply because they're skinnier. Can I use EV6s with a connector adapter? If they're longer, I'm concerned that they will raise the fuel rail into a position that interferes with other stuff.
I would clean them, then get a skinny graduated cylinder, a stop watch, and time them all the same, and record the amount of each injector after each test until there all flowing the same. Only start recording them until the spray pattern reaches the factory spec.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks. I just ordered an ultrasonic cleaner, and I already have the refresher kit with O-rings and filter baskets.
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Ultrasonic cleaners are nice, but I have a sweet way to do it also. It involves a car battery, alligator test clips w/ wires attached, a tire valve stem w/ schrader valve removed, but must retain the valve cap, and a tiny plastic hose/straw off a can of carb cleaner or WD-40. When I'm cleaning injectors, I will make sure that they get a dose of cleaner ran through them and let set overnight night, ran through the next day, again let set overnight again for the 2nd time, and the 3rd and final cleaning begins the following day. You will need to have a spare injector connector and plenty of wire, I was lucky to have an extra junk wiring harness so I cut a connector off it, it's a little harder but you can use just wires. Look at my picture, I don't have my wire harness connector and spare wires on me at this time, so it's absent from the picture, you will have a before and after assembly. It's really neat man to have in your toolbox. After a thorough cleaning, and correct injector spray pattern is achieved, proper timing and volume efficiency can begin. A stop watch and a graduated cylinder are great pieces to begin with. If you cannot obtain these objects you can use any clear glass you can find, but just mark it for your measurements, and use a non digital clock for timing procedure. POW! (Is he saying pow) POW! POW!
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Neat! I hadn't thought of using a tire valve. That bit of injector harness must be nice, too. I just ended up grabbing the injector pins VERY CAREFULLY with jumper wire alligator clips, making sure not to let them touch. It worked, but it would have been better to use the right connector instead.

My carb cleaner adapter uses an ear clamp to pinch the straw inside a rubber hose, inside another piece of hose. I then put some heatshrink over the small hose and straw, but it didn't shrink down small enough to seal against the straw. Fortunately, the ear clamp does a good enough job of sealing it. And it turns out that the heatshrink isn't completely useless after all, because it helps serve as a sort of stress relief for the straw.

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