1998 GT Stock front coil spring install - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018 Thread Starter
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Question 1998 GT Stock front coil spring install

On my 1998 GT , have removed the front springs & "A" arms to replace bushings , ball joints etc. . Have looked at several videos pertaining to the install of the front coil springs . One method shows install the ball joint nut , locate the coil spring , jack up the wide end of the "A" frame until you can install the 2 mounting bolts . Another method basically shows the opposite where you install the 2 "A" frame bolts , locate the coil spring & jack up the ball joint end of the "A" frame till you can install the ball joint nut . Any suggestion as to which if either method is preferable ?


Thanks

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018
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Front wheel spindle installation steps.

This is what the Ford service manual says the installation steps are:

>>From Ford workshop manual Front Wheel Spindle
Installation

Place front wheel spindle on ball joint stud, and install stud nut. Do not tighten at this time.

Lower front shock absorber until mounting holes align with the holes in front wheel spindle . Install two new bolts and nuts.

Tighten the ball joint stud nut to 148-202 Nm (109-149 lb-ft).

Tighten front shock absorber to front wheel spindle retaining nuts to 190-259 Nm (141-191 lb-ft).

Install front stabilizer bar link (5K483) . Tighten the retaining bolt and nut to 16-22 Nm (11-16 lb-ft).

Lower floor jack from under front suspension lower arm , and remove jack.

Attach tie rod end . Tighten retaining nut to 47-64 Nm (35-47 lb-ft).

Install wheel hub and front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) . Tighten to 300-400 Nm (221-295 lb-ft).

Install anti-lock brake sensor bracket by positioning holes over studs. Tighten nut to 23-32 Nm (17-23 lb-ft).

Install front brake anti-lock sensor and mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-56 lb-in).

Install front disc brake rotor shield , front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Refer to Section 06-03 .

Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).

Remove safety stands and lower vehicle.

Check front wheel alignment and adjust if out of specification. Refer to Section 04-00


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2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018
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...Except that the instructions for Front Wheel Spindle installation don't include any information pertinent to removing or reinstalling the spring or control arm. In this case, the control arm and spring are already removed, so the question is- what's the best method for compressing the spring to get everything back together?

I haven't had to tackle this myself as of yet, but I've seen a little hook tool offered by Maximum Motorsports "MMT-8", which helps hold the spring in place while jacking up the control arm. It looks a lot safer than some of the suggestions I've seen involving prybars. Check out the video in the link, but also note that the description states it can't be used for stock-length springs.

Of course, the Ford service manual calls for a proper compressor: tool "D78P-5310-A". Good luck finding one of those, though... FWIW, there is a OTC tool "7045B" that looks a lot like the Ford one. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear to be one of the readily available loaner tools that a local parts store would have on hand. AutoZone does offer a loaner that looks like it might work, though: "OEM" tool 27035. It looks like it might be worth a shot.

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1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018
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In most cases the springs are long enough to be difficult to compress and fit into place. Using good coil spring compressors helps by making the springs shorter. That way you can connect the wide side of the lower control arm, insert the spring then jack up the ball joint end enough to install the ball joint nut. Be VERY careful as compressing springs can be dangerous.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertjh View Post
On my 1998 GT , have removed the front springs & "A" arms to replace bushings , ball joints etc. . Have looked at several videos pertaining to the install of the front coil springs . One method shows install the ball joint nut , locate the coil spring , jack up the wide end of the "A" frame until you can install the 2 mounting bolts . Another method basically shows the opposite where you install the 2 "A" frame bolts , locate the coil spring & jack up the ball joint end of the "A" frame till you can install the ball joint nut . Any suggestion as to which if either method is preferable ?


Thanks
Here's the easiest and best way to get your springs in the car, safely




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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks to all whom replied . Unfortunately did not really get a definitive answer . On the tool mentioned P/N MMT-8 , the supplier states will not work on stock springs . Have a copy of the Service manual & really could not find a step by step installation instruction . Phoned our local Ford dealer to ask about using their manual identified tool , no luck . So , here's what transpired , before it's posted , I'll say it , yes it is a bit of a "hackers " method . Had a set of cheap coil spring compressors which helped me to install my previously installed lowering springs . Installed "A" frame to the car with the 2 bolts . Installed upper insulator to factory coil , installed lower insulator approx. .5" from end as per manual instructions . Visually lined up coil with end being between hole A & B as per manual . Located my aforementioned spring compressors ( one each side of coil ) where I thought they would be easiest to remove . Tightened them up evenly until I could get the coil into the top location & partially on the bottom location . Was now able to get my hydraulic floor jack under the outer edge of the A frame & jacked it up a little till the coil looked seated on the A frame . Here's the bad ! Had to remove the compressors , the one facing the front of the car was no problem , just unscrewed it , the second one however , the hex for loosening was basically jammed to the A frame . Now what , even taking it all apart again , would not get any closer to an install than now ! Plugged in my air compressor , set up my high speed air grinder with a cutting wheel & cut the spring compressor bolt allowing the removal of the coil compressor in 2 pieces . Guess I'll have to go purchase another set of compressors to do the opposite side . Jacked it up till I was able to put the ball joint nut on . one question , using Ford ball joint which come with a nut with red loctite on the threads , how do you stop the ball joint from turning in the body whilst tightening the nut ?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019
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Dang, no luck finding the OTC or "OEM" tool? That sucks, cutting up a good compressor...

As far as the ball-joint goes- I had trouble with this too. The locking nut was turning the tapered stud in the knuckle before it had a chance to fully seat. So I ended up measuring the threads and getting a standard (non-locking) nut of the correct size, and using that with a few washers to get it started. With the taper fully seated, it finally had enough friction to keep itself from turning as I removed the regular nut and installed the locking one. It's been a while since I did this, but I just checked my toolbox and found a lone 16x2.0 nut that I think might have been the one I used.

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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