4r70w Transmission Removal - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019 Thread Starter
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4r70w Transmission Removal

Hey everyone, I plan to remove my 4r70w
4-speed automatic on my 2002 gt,
Now I’m watching some videos online my only question is,
Are the manual transmission removals similar to the automatics I’m using “Chris fix” as my reference in this video he made, but his is a 5-speed manual.

Link: https://youtu.be/al08aGQTkFk

Now should I put my faith into this video hoping that the removal will be identical for my car?
Or is there any MAJOR differences from auto to manual trans removals.

Thanks for anyone’s help in advanced.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019
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Most of the basics are pretty much the same (like removing the exhaust, starter, driveshaft, rear mount), but yes there are some significant differences.

I'm not sure which years or applications had a drain plug on the torque converter, but if your car is one of them, it will be above a black access cover on the bottom of the bell-housing. Turn the engine over with a wrench to line up the TC drain plug with the access hole. This will not drain the entire transmission though, so remove the pan to get the bulk of the fluid out, and don't forget to disconnect the cooler lines too. Reinstall the pan before removing the transmission from the car.

There's no need to remove the auto shifter from the cabin, unless you're doing a manual swap. You will however need to disconnect the shifter cable and electrical connections from the transmission.

Before undoing the rear mount and separating the transmission from the engine, you will need to unfasten the torque converter from the flexplate. Removing the metal plate at the bottom by the oil pan won't give you enough room, so reach up on the rear left (driver side) of the engine to find another black rubber inspection cover next to the block. It'll just pop out, and give you access to the TC nuts. Turn the engine with a wrench to line up and remove all 4 nuts.


1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
Most of the basics are pretty much the same (like removing the exhaust, starter, driveshaft, rear mount), but yes there are some significant differences.

I'm not sure which years or applications had a drain plug on the torque converter, but if your car is one of them, it will be above a black access cover on the bottom of the bell-housing. Turn the engine over with a wrench to line up the TC drain plug with the access hole. This will not drain the entire transmission though, so remove the pan to get the bulk of the fluid out, and don't forget to disconnect the cooler lines too. Reinstall the pan before removing the transmission from the car.

There's no need to remove the auto shifter from the cabin, unless you're doing a manual swap. You will however need to disconnect the shifter cable and electrical connections from the transmission.

Before undoing the rear mount and separating the transmission from the engine, you will need to unfasten the torque converter from the flexplate. Removing the metal plate at the bottom by the oil pan won't give you enough room, so reach up on the rear left (driver side) of the engine to find another black rubber inspection cover next to the block. It'll just pop out, and give you access to the TC nuts. Turn the engine with a wrench to line up and remove all 4 nuts.
Appreciate your feed back, as far as the tc drain plug I have exchanged some of the trans fluid a few months ago and dropped the pan and while doing so I looked for a bolt in the area where that small hole is that has the rubber gasket/plug, and I couldn’t find a drain plug while turning the engine? So I guess that leaves me with just dropping the pan is as much as I can do correct?

And could you provide more information on the unfasting the torque converter from the flexplate section, and dealing with unbolting the tc

Thanks for your help.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019
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It's really easy to miss if you turn the engine past the point where the TC drain plug would line up, but if you're sure it's not there, then it's not there. FWIW, I read on another forum that they stopped making them with drain plugs after 2001, but that was a Ford truck discussion, so I don't know if they kept them around on Mustangs or not (probably not).

It's just 4 nuts holding the TC to the flexplate. Pretty easy if you know where to look. I don't know how to better describe it, so here's a video where you can see the access hole (0:52-1:06)

1995 Mustang GT (5.0), daily driver
1995 GMC C2500 (5.7), alternate daily driver
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
It's really easy to miss if you turn the engine past the point where the TC drain plug would line up, but if you're sure it's not there, then it's not there. FWIW, I read on another forum that they stopped making them with drain plugs after 2001, but that was a Ford truck discussion, so I don't know if they kept them around on Mustangs or not (probably not).

It's just 4 nuts holding the TC to the flexplate. Pretty easy if you know where to look. I don't know how to better describe it, so here's a video where you can see the access hole (0:52-1:06)
I’ll have to check again if the drain plug is there cuz mines a 2002, but overall I appreciate your help. Have a good one buddy.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
It's really easy to miss if you turn the engine past the point where the TC drain plug would line up, but if you're sure it's not there, then it's not there. FWIW, I read on another forum that they stopped making them with drain plugs after 2001, but that was a Ford truck discussion, so I don't know if they kept them around on Mustangs or not (probably not).

It's just 4 nuts holding the TC to the flexplate. Pretty easy if you know where to look. I don't know how to better describe it, so here's a video where you can see the access hole (0:52-1:06)
One last question, is there a proper way to re align the tc to the flex plate when reinstalling the whole trans?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019
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One last question, is there a proper way to re align the tc to the flex plate when reinstalling the whole <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym>?
Basically how I do it is I put the flex plate with a bolt hole at the very bottom and line the torque converter up based off of that. It doesnt have a specific way to line it up. Just make sure that the torque converter is all the way seated in the transmission so it does not tear up the front pump.
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Currently working on Coyote Swap of a 2004 GT
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