Ok, this might be a long post, but here goes.
No matter if you go stock or boosted, you should get a billet oil pump. But a GT500 pump from boundary oil pumps with a 15/16ths pickup tube. It will increase pressure and has billet gears so it will never break. There is no need for you to buy a forged crankshaft. The factory steel crank is plenty strong even in boosted applications. I challenge you to find someone that has overpowered a stock crankshaft. Everyone will tell you that 500hp is the cut off, but I’ve yet to see proof. It’s lighter and will rev faster. Then you should buy Ford factory 2013 Boss 302 connecting rods, they are lightweight and super strong. Plenty of people have pushed them to 700rwhp. I have personally used those rods in applications that see over 8k rpm. A big plus is that they are somewhere around $23 each, straight from Ford and come with bolts. Pistons would be your next piece. You should decide what cylinder head you are going to run and what your final power adder solution will be. If it is boosted, I would select pistons to put it at 10-10.5:1 compression ratio. I personally prefer to use Diamond pistons but plenty of people have used Manley, mahle, sealed power, and mmr economy pistons (I think those are mahle). Bearings would be next, use either King Racing or Clevite. Then I would highly suggest using ARP fasteners for the mains and the head studs. All of these parts can be used in a daily driven vehicle. I’ve got a setup just like this but it’s 12:1 compression and it’s in my Lincoln town car.
If you want to get fancy, you can find a Lincoln mark viii shortblock that is aluminum and swap it in there. You will build more power and lose weight at the same time.
If you are just looking to swap and engine in, do like 90Lx said and find a crown vic/grand marquis/town car engine and swap it in.
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.