4.6L Engine Swap Help - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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4.6L Engine Swap Help

So recently, I blew the bottom end of my engine cause the oil leaked out and I had no clue. I recently took it to a mechanic and confirmed this to be the problem of the knocking in the engine. Im looking for another 4.6 GT engine to put into it and get it back running again. Mind you, I have never done an engine swap and I dont have the money for a mechanic to do it, hence why I came to this forum. If there is already a forum describing the steps, please link it. If not, please give your best advice and steps to do this. Also, if there is a forum to building/forging a 99-04 4.6 2V/4V GT/Cobra engine for street racing with an Edelbrock Supercharger, please link it. Thank you!

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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What is the model year of your Mustang? It does make a difference if this is a 1999-2000 verses 2001-2004 model year.

Are you looking to build a beast motor or a factory replacement? The two options are very different.

In the same way it makes a big difference if you are just trying to replace the motor with say a salvage yard replacement.

It seems to me that you should decide upon an over all plan (20,000 foot view) and then work from there. Your post is asking for way too much information. Unlikely someone is going to supply so much information at one time.

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2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Buy a short block and swap everything else from the old one over to it. If you can’t afford a mechanic forged stuff might be a little out of reach though. No need for it really though if you’re using edelbrocks 5 psi kit. Check your oil. Don’t be street racing.
https://www.coasthigh.com/10178-SF-F...-f4.6l-asb.htm
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
What is the model year of your Mustang? It does make a difference if this is a 1999-2000 verses 2001-2004 model year.

Are you looking to build a beast motor or a factory replacement? The two options are very different.

In the same way it makes a big difference if you are just trying to replace the motor with say a salvage yard replacement.

It seems to me that you should decide upon an over all plan (20,000 foot view) and then work from there. Your post is asking for way too much information. Unlikely someone is going to supply so much information at one time.
The model year is 2001. For now, I just want to get her running, until I can get a daily driver. The plan is to eventually take the engine out and build it for street racing (supercharger, longtube headers, cam, ect.) I just want to know what precautions and steps I should take before I take my engine out, and if there is anything you can recommend me to buy to make my life easier.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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2001+ crown Vic motor. Swap stuff from your old one on to that one. Tons of stuff on google.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blu.edge View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
What is the model year of your Mustang? It does make a difference if this is a 1999-2000 verses 2001-2004 model year.

Are you looking to build a beast motor or a factory replacement? The two options are very different.

In the same way it makes a big difference if you are just trying to replace the motor with say a salvage yard replacement.

It seems to me that you should decide upon an over all plan (20,000 foot view) and then work from there. Your post is asking for way too much information. Unlikely someone is going to supply so much information at one time.
The plan is to eventually take the engine out and build it for street racing (supercharger, longtube headers, cam, ect.) I just want to know what precautions and steps I should take, and if there is anything you can recommend me to buy to make my life easier.
Soap on a rope and a good lawyer.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Ok, this might be a long post, but here goes.

No matter if you go stock or boosted, you should get a billet oil pump. But a GT500 pump from boundary oil pumps with a 15/16ths pickup tube. It will increase pressure and has billet gears so it will never break. There is no need for you to buy a forged crankshaft. The factory steel crank is plenty strong even in boosted applications. I challenge you to find someone that has overpowered a stock crankshaft. Everyone will tell you that 500hp is the cut off, but I’ve yet to see proof. It’s lighter and will rev faster. Then you should buy Ford factory 2013 Boss 302 connecting rods, they are lightweight and super strong. Plenty of people have pushed them to 700rwhp. I have personally used those rods in applications that see over 8k rpm. A big plus is that they are somewhere around $23 each, straight from Ford and come with bolts. Pistons would be your next piece. You should decide what cylinder head you are going to run and what your final power adder solution will be. If it is boosted, I would select pistons to put it at 10-10.5:1 compression ratio. I personally prefer to use Diamond pistons but plenty of people have used Manley, mahle, sealed power, and mmr economy pistons (I think those are mahle). Bearings would be next, use either King Racing or Clevite. Then I would highly suggest using ARP fasteners for the mains and the head studs. All of these parts can be used in a daily driven vehicle. I’ve got a setup just like this but it’s 12:1 compression and it’s in my Lincoln town car.

If you want to get fancy, you can find a Lincoln mark viii shortblock that is aluminum and swap it in there. You will build more power and lose weight at the same time.

If you are just looking to swap and engine in, do like 90Lx said and find a crown vic/grand marquis/town car engine and swap it in.
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1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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As for the engine swap, do you have access to an engine hoist?

Everyone you talk to will have different opinions on how to do this job. Personally, I drop the transmission first because it can be a real pain in the butt to line up a transmission on to an engine as it’s going in to the car. Then I also pull the intake manifold and use the front right, rear left intake bolt holes to lift the engine out. Make sure your bolts are tightened down before you lift, when bolts are tight is when they are strongest.

Drop transmission. Unplug all electrical connector on engine wiring harness and remove it from the car (it lays right back in place and is very hard to mess up). Drain coolant and remove radiator. Remove alternator. Remove intake manifold you can leave the plenum and fuel rails bolted to the intake (you will need fuel line disconnect tools). Unbolt power steering pump from engine (a 10mm ratchet wrench will be your best friend here, I promise). Unbolt a/c compressor from engine. You can leave those two pieces hooked up to their hoses and just lay them to the side. Now the engine is stripped down and you are ready to lift. Just remember to take your time. As you remove bolts, put them in individual bags and label the bags. Take pictures if needed. And don’t be afraid to ask questions.
blu.edge likes this.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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I bought my 01 with a busted intake manifold. Got an 03 Crown Vic motor to put in there for cheap. Basically swapped everything intact over from the mustang motor to the "new" one (air intake, new manifold, plugs, coils, etc). Runs good, just be careful to note the differences between the year-model motors and make sure everything stays compatible.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwarrior1016 View Post
Ok, this might be a long post, but here goes.

No matter if you go stock or boosted, you should get a billet oil pump. But a GT500 pump from boundary oil pumps with a 15/16ths pickup tube. It will increase pressure and has billet gears so it will never break. There is no need for you to buy a forged crankshaft. The factory steel crank is plenty strong even in boosted applications. I challenge you to find someone that has overpowered a stock crankshaft. Everyone will tell you that 500hp is the cut off, but Iíve yet to see proof. Itís lighter and will rev faster. Then you should buy Ford factory 2013 Boss 302 connecting rods, they are lightweight and super strong. Plenty of people have pushed them to 700rwhp. I have personally used those rods in applications that see over 8k rpm. A big plus is that they are somewhere around $23 each, straight from Ford and come with bolts. Pistons would be your next piece. You should decide what cylinder head you are going to run and what your final power adder solution will be. If it is boosted, I would select pistons to put it at 10-10.5:1 compression ratio. I personally prefer to use Diamond pistons but plenty of people have used Manley, mahle, sealed power, and mmr economy pistons (I think those are mahle). Bearings would be next, use either King Racing or Clevite. Then I would highly suggest using ARP fasteners for the mains and the head studs. All of these parts can be used in a daily driven vehicle. Iíve got a setup just like this but itís 12:1 compression and itís in my Lincoln town car.

If you want to get fancy, you can find a Lincoln mark viii shortblock that is aluminum and swap it in there. You will build more power and lose weight at the same time.

If you are just looking to swap and engine in, do like 90Lx said and find a crown vic/grand marquis/town car engine and swap it in.
Thank You so much! This helped alot!
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blu.edge View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwarrior1016 View Post
Ok, this might be a long post, but here goes.

No matter if you go stock or boosted, you should get a billet oil pump. But a GT500 pump from boundary oil pumps with a 15/16ths pickup tube. It will increase pressure and has billet gears so it will never break. There is no need for you to buy a forged crankshaft. The factory steel crank is plenty strong even in boosted applications. I challenge you to find someone that has overpowered a stock crankshaft. Everyone will tell you that 500hp is the cut off, but I’ve yet to see proof. It’s lighter and will rev faster. Then you should buy Ford factory 2013 Boss 302 connecting rods, they are lightweight and super strong. Plenty of people have pushed them to 700rwhp. I have personally used those rods in applications that see over 8k rpm. A big plus is that they are somewhere around $23 each, straight from Ford and come with bolts. Pistons would be your next piece. You should decide what cylinder head you are going to run and what your final power adder solution will be. If it is boosted, I would select pistons to put it at 10-10.5:1 compression ratio. I personally prefer to use Diamond pistons but plenty of people have used Manley, mahle, sealed power, and mmr economy pistons (I think those are mahle). Bearings would be next, use either King Racing or Clevite. Then I would highly suggest using ARP fasteners for the mains and the head studs. All of these parts can be used in a daily driven vehicle. I’ve got a setup just like this but it’s 12:1 compression and it’s in my Lincoln town car.

If you want to get fancy, you can find a Lincoln mark viii shortblock that is aluminum and swap it in there. You will build more power and lose weight at the same time.

If you are just looking to swap and engine in, do like 90Lx said and find a crown vic/grand marquis/town car engine and swap it in.
Thank You so much! This helped alot!

I am here to help, whenever possible. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. There’s a bunch of knowledge floating around on here.

1998 GT
Rebuild in the works. New crank, 2013 Boss rods, srp .020 over flat top pistons with valve reliefs, 12:1 compression, ported pi heads, comp xe278ah cams.
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2001 mustang gt , 4.6 2 valve , new edge swap

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