99 GT No crank, no clicking ,no start ! - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019 Thread Starter
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99 GT No crank, no clicking ,no start !

99 GT automatic 150k miles
This past two weeks I been having a starting issue. The car runs perfectly but very rarely after it’s been off and I go to start it like normal , it doesn’t crank or click at all. Coils are newish , battery is good. I think it might have to do with the dumb aftermarket alarm, it only turned on when I locked and unlocked it with the remote . Has anyone experienced this issue before ? How can I remove the alarm system ? This is an electrical issue since my starter , battery ,coils and fuel pump are in working condition. I will try to attach a video of this occurrence.
Thanks


1993 White Edition 5.0 LX Vert AOD
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-07-2019 Thread Starter
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https://youtu.be/vHhMylQbEWQ


1993 White Edition 5.0 LX Vert AOD
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019 Thread Starter
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Today I turned it on in the morning no issue, after work the same no dam issue 🧐 even after pumping gas and having to shut it off , it sparked right up immediately.

1993 White Edition 5.0 LX Vert AOD
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019
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Hate to be the one to say this. The odds favor:
  • A bad battery
  • A loose or broken battery terminal. Pay special attention to the negative terminal as it's bad about splitting.
  • a bad battery cable (internal corrosion)
  • A bad battery ground around the radiator core support.

The "give away" to it being a system voltage problem is the fact that all lights go out when the key is turned to "crank". The problem comes and goes because sometimes it makes better connection than others. Perhaps heat can play a role as well.

Bottom line. Today's cars require a strong battery and charging system. Any electrical connection that must carry a large amp current MUST be clean and tight if you expect it to work.

However. I recommend starting with a through visual inspection. If it looks bad, likely it is bad. The words of the day are CLEAN and TIGHT.

Here's some information on HOW to perform voltage drop testing. If you learn how the test works voltage drop testing will absolutely exactly pinpoint where the weak connection is.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-drop-test.56/

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply , when it “cranked “all the lights and radio work tho ? I did replace one lil red cable that connects to the little fuse box but that didn’t solve anything, the only thing I can think of replacing is the other long red cable that goes to the starter it’s corroded .....everything is tight and clean , I replaced many hoses and worn out little parts here and there even added clamps to all hoses in engine bay......I will take my battery to autozone for a recharge

1993 White Edition 5.0 LX Vert AOD
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyi.salcedo View Post
I did replace one lil red cable that connects to the little fuse box but that didn’t solve anything, the only thing I can think of replacing is the other long red cable that goes to the starter it’s corroded
Best not to change parts on a "guess". Test! The voltage drop test can be used to pinpoint IF there's a problem without having to replace anything without a "fix".

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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