Best clutch/shifter for 1998 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-23-2008 Thread Starter
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Arrow Best clutch/shifter for 1998 Mustang GT

I have a 98 GT, and i was going to get the MGW short throw shifter. But i figured that since i have 110k miles, i should replace the clutch and flywheel with a "racing" one since i intend to add mods to my car for a while. I can do the short shifter install myself, but i would take the clutch and flywheel to a dealer to get it done.
Any suggestions on what i should get? Im a college student so the less i spend the better, but im not goin to sacrifice quality with cheap parts. Thanks!

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008
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First of all, Welcome to AFM.

With 110K miles on the clock, I would also consider replacing the clutch. There are alot of choices out there that won't break the bank. King Cobra for instance is a decent clutch for little coin. Spec Racing also makes a damn fine clutch and are very reasonable. My personal choice would be a Spec. With your listed mods and the fact that you are planning more in the future, I would suggest a Spec stage 1 or stage 2. Their Stage 1 in 10.5" is rated at 480ft/lbs which is more than enough for most guys unless they are going with a turbo or super charger. Their stage 2 is rated at 550-560ft/lbs for those applications. The stage 1 goes for $209 for a 10.5" or $229 for an 11" and the stage 2 sells for $319 for the 10.5" and $339 for the 11". Most 4.6 motors in stangs use a 164 tooth flywheel which calls for the 11" clutch.

Don't buy another flywheel until you've torn down the clutch etc... to get to the flywheel so you can see what kind of shape it is in. In most cases, the flywheel can be "turned" like a brake rotor and cleaned up and re-used. While you're in there, it is also a good idea to replace both the pilot bearing in the crank and the rear main seal in the back of the engine, especially with that kind of mileage on them.

I know you said you were going to take it to a dealer to have the work done but that'll cost you easily $400+ labor alone. It really isn't hard to change these out and I/we can walk you thru the entire process if you are interested. All you really need is a good set of basic hand tools both standard and metric. Of course, air tools make the job alot easier but hand tools will do it just fine. You'll also need a good jack and a set of jack stands. The only "specialty" tool you'll need would be a torque wrench but other than that, it really isn't that hard. Plus it'll save you alot of money and you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. :hihi:

Good luck and let us know if you have any questions.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008 Thread Starter
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Ok, well if i could do it myself then i def will!! Sounds great! Thanks! Saving cash is always worth it, i just didnt want to mess anything up and hav to spend more. I probably wouldnt start this till this spring tho since im at school now and i hardly get to drive my car! But ill PM you or reply to this thread again for some instructions!
Thanks again!! I really appreciate it!
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011
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Hey i need to replace my clutch too, it grinds when i shift into first and reverse, usually the reverse only, and sometimes grinds the first and second(rarely) gears. I wanna learn how to do this, if you can help me that would be great! I also am gonna go with a specs stage 1 clutch, and as for the flywheel i wanna change that too. I know it can be turned, but wth? ill do it anyway for fun :yelpleased:

1998 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L
40's Flowmasters K n N Intake and BBK Long Tubes BBK X-Pipe
Ceramic Brake Pads 88 Rotors Cross Drilled
UPR Control arms UPR Tubular K-Member
Shark CC Plates Coil Over Monroe Struts
Rear Monroe Shocks Monroe Motor Mounts
Steeda Short Shifter and Steeda Clutch Cable
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