building bottom end - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010 Thread Starter
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building bottom end

Hey everyone I am getting a supercharger this week installed and I am going to the max of what the stock bottom end can handle, my question is what all do you replace when building a bottom end. Like the block? Thanks all


2003 GT
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11lbs boost
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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If i was going to build the bottom end for a supercharger, i would just replace all the stock components with... forged dish pistons, forged rods, a stroker crank, and have the block bored maybe 20 or 30 over. your only going to be able to keep the stock block how it is for a short time if your going to run that charger to the max. and also you better have everything else in line if you do upgrade the bottom end.. oh almost forgot, get a billet block, there pricey but there worth every penny.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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what's in a "bottom end" is really the shortblock, ie block, rods, crank, and pistons. but unless your trying to make over 600rwhp, you'll be fine with just upgrading the crank, rods, and pistons. heck, even the crank will hold out as long as you have it balanced.

2002 Procharged GT
351rwhp, 353rwtq
12.503 @ 113.08

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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when i have my new motor started next month i will will putting around in the car still for 4-6 weeks while they build a bottom end starting with a new block (so i dont have to surrender my car yet), followed by a rpm stroker crank, manley rods and pistons. it will be a 5.0 litre stroker shortblock. this will cost me 3500

the install will cost me 1500 and at the same time the motor comes out mac long tubes and h will go in as well as a tci street fighter 2400 stall converter, and the heads will also be going to the machine shop to be put through the works and comp stage 2s will be going in as well. since I have an sct handheld the dyno tune will only cost 300. alltogether Im spending about 8300.

this is to give u an idea of what a motor build will cost you

1990 mustang gt 5.0l, red, aod- its build time

2001 mustang gt lots of mods- sold
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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Do not bore a 4.6 block .030 over.... .020 max due to the wall thicknesses. But yeah id just change the pistons to forged along with the rods.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 YellowStang View Post
Do not bore a 4.6 block .030 over.... .020 max due to the wall thicknesses. But yeah id just change the pistons to forged along with the rods.

what do you think 5.0 stroker short blocks for 2vs are? lol

get a short block even if you dont want a stroker cuz it will make things easier. your stock block would have to be freshened anyway

1990 mustang gt 5.0l, red, aod- its build time

2001 mustang gt lots of mods- sold
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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5.0 stroker shortblocks don't have to be bored at all. the stroke of the piston is lengthened. hence the name "stroker".

2002 Procharged GT
351rwhp, 353rwtq
12.503 @ 113.08

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010
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at 450 is when the rods start to Go in the stock 4.6 i think the pistons are good up to like 500ish and the crank i think as said 600.. manley is good and cheap, thats what the cobras run i belive. and when you get into the motor you should bore it. maybe since you are thier get some blower cams.

cams, and all basic bolt ons, arizen seats, cowl hood, and now my buckets got a hole in it (meaning im broke) but when i fix it ill have gears and some trany work
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