What are your preferences for suspension on 2001 Mustang GTs - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2010 Thread Starter
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What are your preferences for suspension on 2001 Mustang GTs

Ok Gang,
I have done a few suspensions on the 2005-2009 GTs. Now that the wife has had her 2001 GT a couple weeks she is wanting to get it down to a better height and firm up the handling a bit. On a road trip last weekend we made a run through a canyon with some great twisties and the car pushes quite a bit. I am leaning towards an Eibach Sport Spring and Sway Bar Kit with Tokico D-Spec Shocks and Struts. Any thoughts from any of you have been down this path???


Jim
2007 GT/CS, Vista Blue, FRP 200hp supercharger, Ford Racing GTA mufflers, Boss 302 Quad Exhaust,GT-500 rear spoiler, FRP short throw shifter. Eibach Mutli-Pro Coil Over Suspension, BMR K Member & Adjustable Lower Control Arms, Steeda Bump Steer Kit, Steeda X-5 Ball Joints,Maximum Caster Camber Plates(required maching my Steeda Billet strut tower brace end mounts), CHE Adjustable Lower Contols Arms and Anti Squat Brackets. GT-500 wheels and tires, Ford Racing 14" Brembo brake set-up.

Last edited by jrowledge; 07-04-2010 at 10:54 PM. Reason: add subscription
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010
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I have done this to a friends and to mine and we both love the way it handles. Now some I didn't do on mine cuz Roush already did it but....

Steeda 37mm front sway bar
Tokico D-spec struts n shocks or if u don't want adjustables then get the Blistins as they r great non-adjustables.
J&M C/C Plates (m m second) as the J&M's had the most adjustability.
Moog or Stedda balljoints, polly bushings.
Steeda strut tower braces
Steeda bump-steer kit
and the MOST IMPORTANT PART-----VOGTLAND Springs.....(with 1.6 drop front n rear) but mine is more cause I took out the isolators in the front)

With this set-up my car has no-body roll but is NOT harsh on bumpy roads, this is because the springs are progressive (soft @ first and take up the bump) but get stiff in the curves, also I have the struts set on 5 soft (front) 4 soft rear on the road, and then set em @ full stiff (hard) to 2 soft front & rear depending on track conditions...

and I drift/autocross so I have an adjustable rear sway-bar but my buddy's doesn't and his is still a blast to drive, I just got it so on either REALLY GREAT OR REALLY BAD tracks I could compensate... but unless she is into full competition I don't think u need that....

The only other part I want is a panhard bar but here again for $6-800 and not a competition car then why get it...


2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010
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If she just wants a nice handling and riding car:

MM XL subframe connectors
Vogtland Springs
Bilstein Shocks and Struts
MM HD Lower control arms
MM Panhard Bar

I disagree with Roush on one thing, the panhard bar. I don't think you need to compete to see the extreme advantages of the panhard bar setup on the Mustang. It completely gets rid of the tail wagging on uneven roads that the Fox and SN95 chassis suffers from. It makes driving enjoyable again on uneven roads, especially if you're running 275 or 315 rear tires, which tend to make the tail wagging worse.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt5339 View Post
MM XL subframe connectors
Vogtland Springs
Bilstein Shocks and Struts
MM HD Lower control arms
MM Panhard Bar

I disagree with Roush on one thing, the panhard bar. I don't think you need to compete to see the extreme advantages of the panhard bar setup on the Mustang. It completely gets rid of the tail wagging on uneven roads that the Fox and SN95 chassis suffers from. It makes driving enjoyable again on uneven roads, especially if you're running 275 or 315 rear tires, which tend to make the tail wagging worse.
Thanks richard, I forgot to put down control arm and subframe connectors.(mine has Roush)

And I agree that a panhard bar is AWESOME even on the street, just not allot of people can weld em in or check the geometry and install em right and @ close to $1,000's plus labor and install, most ppl just don't do it unless they compete, but if u got the money it will REALY HELP w/ the rear suspension.

2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010
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PS HERE R SOME PICS RIGHT AFTER I INSTALLED THE SPRINGS (note:the front settled but the rear settled another 3/4"-1" more drop about a week latter)(Blue stang- STOCK Red ROUSH-mine)

What are your preferences for suspension on 2001 Mustang GTs-sdc10156.jpg
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2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010 Thread Starter
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Hey gang,
Thanks for the input. I don't think she will spend much time on track, we go to Miller for our serious track time and burn their cars to the ground. The goal is to get it close to neutral for canyon cruising and general day to day driving. After driving the Challenge cars at Miller I have spent a great deal of time and money getting the handling right on mine. We have learned to appreciate a tight handling car.
Thanks again.

Jim
2007 GT/CS, Vista Blue, FRP 200hp supercharger, Ford Racing GTA mufflers, Boss 302 Quad Exhaust,GT-500 rear spoiler, FRP short throw shifter. Eibach Mutli-Pro Coil Over Suspension, BMR K Member & Adjustable Lower Control Arms, Steeda Bump Steer Kit, Steeda X-5 Ball Joints,Maximum Caster Camber Plates(required maching my Steeda Billet strut tower brace end mounts), CHE Adjustable Lower Contols Arms and Anti Squat Brackets. GT-500 wheels and tires, Ford Racing 14" Brembo brake set-up.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt5339 View Post
If she just wants a nice handling and riding car:

MM XL subframe connectors
Vogtland Springs
Bilstein Shocks and Struts
MM HD Lower control arms
MM Panhard Bar

Follow bullitt's list in that order of "adding on" except for 1 thing, as soon as you add the Vogtland springs you need to also add a J&M C/C plate so they can put a good alignment on it...

Here r the specs I like:

caster min-3.5, max-5.0 prefered 5.0
camber min-0.15neg, max-1.35neg, prefered 1.00neg (For the Street) I run 3 neg. @ the track
toe in min-0.0, max-0.25, prefered close to 0.0

2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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